Okay I see but if the tubing can reach that might make things better. Also as Ross has mentioned the new Arctic Freezer II AIO is actually stellar. I bought the 360mm version at launch for a ridiculously low price of £69.99 from Amazon..yes I have the receipt just in case no one believes it...It is such a cost effective AIO and yet the performance is exceptional. Be warned the radiator is a little thicker than normal AIO's but my 10700K at 5.1GHz all core runs CinebenchR20 at a max highest temp of 74 degrees C.
Is my AIO working as it should?
- Thread starter KungFuSpaghetti
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One thing that confuses me, is the case you have the standard O11 Dynamic or the O11 Dynamic Air....The air has no glass on the front but a plastic cover with fans behind. If it is the O11 Air version then the filter is a huge problem. Gamers Nexus did a review which showed that the filter was super restrictive...Apologies if that is not the case..
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I've seen that in the coolermaster software it thinks my CPU is idling at 9 degrees and hits 54 under load on cb20, yet hwinfo64 was showing it hitting 79 degrees at the time. Wtf?
@varinder the case I have is the o11 dynamic limited edition one, I guess that's the regular version of the case (it's the chrome mirror glass one). I'd certainly have no issues with the arctic in terms of space, the current rad could be twice as thick and id have space left lol.
@varinder the case I have is the o11 dynamic limited edition one, I guess that's the regular version of the case (it's the chrome mirror glass one). I'd certainly have no issues with the arctic in terms of space, the current rad could be twice as thick and id have space left lol.
you don't want too many programs monitoring the cpu temperature as it can give wild numbers especially on 3rd gen ryzen, the programs i use are msi afterburner and hwinfo64 but never at the same time, i too have a 3900x and when first built i checked on the cpu with icue and cpu-z and hwmoniter and at stock speed at idle i was seeing mid 60's which i though hell thats high.
only when i closed icue and cpu-z did i see the cpu temp drop back to the mid 30's, i have made some adjustments from then i have iuce up but changed a few monitoring settings and the only program i have to check the cpu temp all the time is msi afterburner.
i too am using a lian li pc-011 dynamic case but have custom 360mm rad's and the distro plate and have a 4.4ghz all core clock and the max temps under Cinebech r20 are around 78-80 degrees, its paramount to have good airflow in pc-011 dynamic too, otherwise things will get warm (trust me i know)
don't forget too the out of the box voltages for the 3900x are stupid, auto volts translates to almost 1.5v, but typically around 1.4v+ is what most will do which is far to high.
eg: my chip is @4.4ghz all core and using a manual voltage of 1.3375 in the bios and windows reports 1.328v when i check in the os
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hmm, okay more food for thought then! I have MSI afterburner open all the time for my GPU, but I only recently (yesterday) put the coolermaster software on, but the temps on that app are in line with what I expect it to be. As the guy above also said, my Noctua temps seem way too high as well. So I'm at a loss, I'm wondering if there's no issue and my mobo is giving out false readings, as the rad I can touch now and it's tepid at best. I can hear and feel the fluid, so the pump is 100% working, how well I've no idea though...
Regarding voltages, I've left everything auto, so should I be running an offset or fixed voltage?
Regarding voltages, I've left everything auto, so should I be running an offset or fixed voltage?
i'd defiantly use msi afterburner over the coolermaster software, its what i use and have no issues at all, don't forget we have 12 core cpu's with SMT and even though they are on 7nm thats a really small area with a fair amount of heat to get rid of, so yeah with out voltage tuning they will run warm.
what is your average core clock you see under load?, if i know i can advice you on a manual voltage which will allow the cpu to run at that but be cooler overall
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Not sure on average clock, but according to hwinfo64 my max effective core clock speed is just 4384mhz on core 0 and core 1. I've had the PC on all day today and had Civ 6 on in background, then had a game of pube g at lunch with my boss, so it's had some mixed abuse. Minimum temp is 29.5, max of 78 (did a couple of CB20 runs before) and an average temp of 40 degrees exactly.
Where do I see my average core clock in hwinfo? (sorry for the dumb questions!)
Where do I see my average core clock in hwinfo? (sorry for the dumb questions!)
thats a good base to start with if the max clock is just under 4.4ghz on a couple of cores thats not far off my all core 4.4ghz i run so with that in mind head into the bios and set a manual voltage around 1.34-1.35v from auto, you should see a drop in temperatures as the voltage will be a good -150mv less per core
regarding hwinfo do you have hwiunfo64? if so it will show the min, max and average speed of the cpu within the program, keep scrolling until you find the cpu section and it will be with in including power usage to
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okay nice one @wookiee87 I'll give that a try shortly and see what the difference is. The one thing I will say is that with this AIO my in game clocks are higher, my CB20 results are at worst over 7200 with pretty much all my crap running and over 7400 when I do a clear run. It must be at least doing something right, just that headline figure needs to come down, but every other scenario the temps seem normal :S
yeah my stock run in r20 is around 7200 like you but my overclocked 4.4ghz score is 7783 and if i can get my new cl14 ram to work properly i bet i could get close to 8k, but for now i cant get it to run stably no matter how much i fiddle in the bios, gaming on the other hand is totally fine
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Okay so tried fixed voltage and it still showed it hitting 1.5v max on hwinfo64, but repeated cinebench runs were 76 degrees max. Tried a negative offset next, temps 79 degrees but performance dropped to 7067...
Gaming temps stay largely unchanged no matter what and stay in the 50s.
I've not tried all core overclock, but don't think my chip is strong enough to hit 4.4 and guessing gaming perf would drop?
I have my ram running cl14, but at 3600. I have 3800 cl16 saved but performance was slightly worse for some reason.
Gaming temps stay largely unchanged no matter what and stay in the 50s.
I've not tried all core overclock, but don't think my chip is strong enough to hit 4.4 and guessing gaming perf would drop?
I have my ram running cl14, but at 3600. I have 3800 cl16 saved but performance was slightly worse for some reason.
i'd stick to manual voltage adjustments, to be honest you could easily set a all core of 4.3ghz and call it a day you'd loose some speed in benchmark tests but games wont really be affected too much, what really makes the difference is the infinity fabric clock, for 3rd gen chips around the 1800-1866mhz is best so ram speeds of 3600mhz - 3733mhz max, and low latency ram too
offset voltages if tuned correctly can gain you some performance but if you set a low offset value you can hurt the performance overall, your 7067 point run reflects this.
keep playing around to find a happy medium, but voltage wise don't go past 1.35v and stay above 1.28 if possible, there are story's of undervolting too far can damage 3rd gen ryzen
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Okay I'll try for a lower voltage on fixed, but offset wise I just hit the minus key and went with the first value as a test... but performance dropped a fair bit to almost Intel 10 core like levels... 
ut performance dropped a fair bit to almost Intel 10 core like levels...
LMFAO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Couldn't help myself there
So, just done a CB20 run and noticed my CPU package power is maxing out at 143.6w... shouldn't that be 105w max???
Couldn't help myself there
So, just done a CB20 run and noticed my CPU package power is maxing out at 143.6w... shouldn't that be 105w max???
the 105w the cpu should pull is if all cores are at base clock (3.8ghz) because its boosting over 4ghz the power draw will be higher, though 143w your seeing is mega low compared to a 10900k
my all core 4.4ghz clock usually pulls around 173w in benchmarks and just around 150w in most games, still much lower than intels offerings again
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okay, so further testing has yielded better results
1.28v was too low and CPU scores dropped, so changed to 1.29175 and it pulls a healthy 7300+ on multi and stays at 67 degrees. That seems a little more like it?
1.28v was too low and CPU scores dropped, so changed to 1.29175 and it pulls a healthy 7300+ on multi and stays at 67 degrees. That seems a little more like it?
okay, so further testing has yielded better results
1.28v was too low and CPU scores dropped, so changed to 1.29175 and it pulls a healthy 7300+ on multi and stays at 67 degrees. That seems a little more like it?
yeah 1.28 is for the golden sample chips, most will be fine around the 1.3v mark at stock speed, but if you go for all core clocks then 1.3v+ upto 1.35v will be needed if you push all cores above 4.2ghz+, regarding your temp under r20 runs of 67 degrees is very good and to get 7300 points is also pretty dam good too
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I'm really pleased with that, so thank you big time, it never even occurred to check fixed voltage or what it was pulling wattage wise.
My mobo doesn't do 1.28v exactly, so it was 1.2750 I tried, then just straight to 1.29175. There may be some more room to drop slightly, but the temps and performance I can live with, the CPU idle is 30 and under now, and that's with the fans down from 70% to 55%
Coolermaster software is a little more optimistic, 4 degree idle... lol
My mobo doesn't do 1.28v exactly, so it was 1.2750 I tried, then just straight to 1.29175. There may be some more room to drop slightly, but the temps and performance I can live with, the CPU idle is 30 and under now, and that's with the fans down from 70% to 55%
Coolermaster software is a little more optimistic, 4 degree idle... lol
I'm really pleased with that, so thank you big time, it never even occurred to check fixed voltage or what it was pulling wattage wise.
My mobo doesn't do 1.28v exactly, so it was 1.2750 I tried, then just straight to 1.29175. There may be some more room to drop slightly, but the temps and performance I can live with, the CPU idle is 30 and under now, and that's with the fans down from 70% to 55%
Coolermaster software is a little more optimistic, 4 degree idle... lol
i'd say the voltage you have now (1.29175v) is really as low as you want, tbh going close to the minimum voltage may cause stability issues in the future, i mentioned that low as thats what others have said. basically stay at 1.29175v at the lowest and steadly increase if you want more grunt alter the cpu multiplier too at the same time
67 degrees under heavy load is actually extremely good so no need to drop voltages and potentially risk your chip for the sake of 3-5 degrees better temps, always best to have some heat in ryzen cpu's XD
hell i run 1.3375v through mine and yes its a bit warm in benchmarks (80's) but gaming is very manageable (68 degrees)