is there such a thing as a 12v network hub?

Its just a case of getting a new transformer that will adjust the 12v to the required voltage for the hub/switch (assuming it has an external PSU) unfortuntely not that easy to get hold of nowadays, check out electronics places and you may very well find something.

Your other option of course would be to get hold of a 240 inverter, which changes the 12v to 240v, but if you could get hold of a transformer that changes 12v to whatever is required for the switch/hub it will use less power, which is probably quite important if running of batteries!
 
I've got a 12v 3Com hub sat next to me, now.

If you're certain it's a 12v line, just bodge up a connector to the boat's 12v line.
 
double check the voltage is DC not ac though ;)

Also remember the boat's electrics may well be nominally 12v, but if like a car it may go as high as ~14v at times which could potentially cause problems for the switch/hub unless you use a connection/adaptor that allows for that (IIRC some of the car adaptors have a 12 output and regulate it).
 
Werewolf said:
Also remember the boat's electrics may well be nominally 12v, but if like a car it may go as high as ~14v at times

This is true, they do go up to 14v, what do you need a hub for on a boat btw?
 
Energize said:
I thought switches were 12v? Mine have been.

No, not all of them. I have 9v switches about somewhere. Anyway, regardless of that, you will need to put some kind of circuit together with a fuse, voltage regulator and a smoothing capacitator in between the boat's battery and the switch. This will ensure that the voltage supplied to the switch won't go above 12v, the amperage won't go over something like 1A (depending what fuse you put in of course :p ) and to smooth the supply of any spikes. Of course though if you can't solder then it's really a non-starter because such a unit is so custom it won't be readily avaliable although all the components are avaliable from electronics retailers :)
 
Trigger said:
No, not all of them. I have 9v switches about somewhere. Anyway, regardless of that, you will need to put some kind of circuit together with a fuse, voltage regulator and a smoothing capacitator in between the boat's battery and the switch. This will ensure that the voltage supplied to the switch won't go above 12v, the amperage won't go over something like 1A (depending what fuse you put in of course :p ) and to smooth the supply of any spikes. Of course though if you can't solder then it's really a non-starter because such a unit is so custom it won't be readily avaliable although all the components are avaliable from electronics retailers :)

thanks for all the replies guys, his boats like nasa mission control with all the gizmo's he's got in there. He says it sometimes goes up as high as 13.8.

Ill pass on the info to him. :)
 
Wyvern971 said:
I've got a Gigabyte 10/100 switch somewhere that can be powered over USB so I don't see why not.

I carry round an Origo 5 port 10/100 switch that is USB powered. It also has a DC power input but I couldn't tell what voltage it needs. Works a treat off USB though.
 
#Chri5# said:
I carry round an Origo 5 port 10/100 switch that is USB powered. It also has a DC power input but I couldn't tell what voltage it needs. Works a treat off USB though.

USB is ~5V so I would guess it's about that :)
 
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