Is this good gear?

BenJ · 21 Oct 2009 at 21:43

Thermochill PA120.2 Radiator (15mm Fan Spacing) £50.99
Heatkiller CPU Waterblock Revision 3 LT (Socket LGA1366) £43.99
Laing DDC 1-T Pro 10W 12V DC Pump £49.99
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev2 Watercooling Resevoir £19.99
Fluid XP+ Eco-Earth Midnight Blue UV 944ml (32oz) £18.99
Masterkleer 1/2" Tubing UV Blue - 1m £3.99

I know nothing about water cooling but I'd like to ditch my Tuniq tower as its very noisy on full whack. Im trying to make a quiet pc.

Do I need anything other than the above?

Is it enough tubing/liquid e.t.c?

Any other parts needed? Or any of the above not the best bang for buck?

Would this be just as good and a lot easier? Corsair H50-1 High-Performance CPU Watercooler £63.99

MikeTimbers · 21 Oct 2009 at 22:08

It's more than adequate but you'll need 2m of tubing and given how little it costs buy 3m so you'll have some spare when you inevitably decide to re-do it all a week after you've done it.

Make sure the blocks/rad/res etc come with barbs. Personally I'd always get the XSPC res top for the ddc1 rather than a separate res.

MikeTimbers · 21 Oct 2009 at 22:09

Oh, and no, I genuinely do not believe the H50-1 would be as good nor as extensible nor as adaptable nor as much fun.

bifday2k · 21 Oct 2009 at 22:25

Id agree with mike, 2/3m of tubing is what i allways buy better to have more then u need.

The h50 is a nice all in one, but the stuff u listed will easily beat it, and its more fun to do it urself.

About the coolant u listed, save urself some money and get di-ionized water, and some PT nuke. £19 for coolant to me is way to much, i payed £5 for a big 5L bottle of di-ionized water from my local car shop.

BenJ · 21 Oct 2009 at 23:10

bifday2k said:
Id agree with mike, 2/3m of tubing is what i allways buy better to have more then u need.

The h50 is a nice all in one, but the stuff u listed will easily beat it, and its more fun to do it urself.

About the coolant u listed, save urself some money and get di-ionized water, and some PT nuke. £19 for coolant to me is way to much, i payed £5 for a big 5L bottle of di-ionized water from my local car shop.

Will the seperate parts purely beat it in performance? I'm not to fussed about massive overclocks, more quietness.

bifday2k · 21 Oct 2009 at 23:25

BenJ said:
Will the seperate parts purely beat it in performance? I'm not to fussed about massive overclocks, more quietness.

Yeh the serperate parts will beat it performance wise, especially if used with decent fans, apache, noctua and the like. The seperates u listed are all a lot higher spec stuff, the rad is double the capacity and also a lot better, same for the pump. These are the key factors.

Most of the time the fans will be running well under 1000rpm and u will barely hear them, that is if you control them either via PWM, speedfan or a fan controller. My 1400rpm fan on my rad is usually running at like 800rpm, and is really quite even at 1400 its not that loud.

I currently use the swiftech H20-120 kit, was more of a DIY kit then the H50 is, so i would deffinatly recommend the seperates as u chose a decent double rad, that will allways beat the single rad of the H50.

If you went the H50 route, going by others results you would need 2 decent fans in push/pull, and controlled like above.

The h50 would be easier, but would restrict you to just that, the kit u put together allows further upgrades.

BenJ · 21 Oct 2009 at 23:28

bifday2k said:
Yeh the serperate parts will beat it performance wise, especially if used with decent fans, apache, noctua and the like. The seperates u listed are all a lot higher spec stuff, the rad is double the capacity and also a lot better, same for the pump. These are the key factors.

Most of the time the fans will be running well under 1000rpm and u will barely hear them, that is if you control them either via PWM, speedfan or a fan controller. My 1400rpm fan on my rad is usually running at like 800rpm, and is really quite even at 1400 its not that loud.

I currently use the swiftech H20-120 kit, was more of a DIY kit then the H50 is, so i would deffinatly recommend the seperates as u chose a decent double rad, that will allways beat the single rad of the H50.

If you went the H50 route, going by others results you would need 2 decent fans in push/pull, and controlled like above.

The h50 would be easier, but would restrict you to just that, the kit u put together allows further upgrades.

Thanks for that bud. I was thinking of getting a new gc card in the near future aswell and putting a water block on it. Would this be as simple as getting some more tubeing and the gpu water block, then plumbing it in to the above parts? Or would more parts be necessary

bifday2k · 21 Oct 2009 at 23:36

yup aslong as u get barbs with the block and tubing then all u have to do is take out all your kit, plumb in the new waterblock, leak test (with no mobo or gfx attached), if no leaks then re-install and off you go.

Thats why seperates are a lot more upgradeable.

BenJ · 22 Oct 2009 at 07:24

Does the cpu block that I put come with barbs? Are they the bit the tube connects to?

So you set it up first outside the pc, say on the desk,attached to nothing, to leak test it? and then install it in the pc?

MikeTimbers · 22 Oct 2009 at 08:13

No, put it all together in the computer but remove all the power leads from the motherboard and the graphics cards, then power up the PSU by linking the green wire to a black wire on the main power loom ... Oh, just google for this it's really easy to do and there's massive amounts of pages that will tell you how. Check the link in my sig for the OCUK FAQ.

rjk · 22 Oct 2009 at 09:04

BenJ said:
Thermochill PA120.2 Radiator (15mm Fan Spacing) £50.99
Heatkiller CPU Waterblock Revision 3 LT (Socket LGA1366) £43.99
Laing DDC 1-T Pro 10W 12V DC Pump £49.99
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev2 Watercooling Resevoir £19.99
Fluid XP+ Eco-Earth Midnight Blue UV 944ml (32oz) £18.99
Masterkleer 1/2" Tubing UV Blue - 1m £3.99

what are you cooling with this?

if it is the s775 c2d in your signature then a h50 would be more than adequate

however
you have chosen a great set of components that could cool a top end i7 rig down quite well

if you are looking to upgrade in the future, it may be worth considering [bear in mind your cpu block is a 1366 socket model]

you would also need fittings for this
i reccomend 1/2' barbs with your 7/16' tubing
this works best imo

if you want compression fittings, bitspower are the only way to go but are very expensive

Bubo · 22 Oct 2009 at 09:13

By default the ddc-pro comes with moulded plastic 3/8" barbs, so if you are planning on using 1/2" tubing then you ought to be thinking about a replacement top of some kind which you can screw the correct barb size into, the res-top has been mentioned but there are others if you want to keep the mirco res. The alternative is to use reducers but you don't want to doing that. You will also need to make sure you have all the little bits like hose clips for the barbs, think about if you want a drain line which will need a T and a valve, think about if you want a dedicated fillport, a funnel will help filling, do you need anti kink coils etc. Its the small bits which are often the easiest to overlook when you make your first water cooling order.

BenJ · 22 Oct 2009 at 13:13

rjkoneill said:
what are you cooling with this?

if it is the s775 c2d in your signature then a h50 would be more than adequate

however
you have chosen a great set of components that could cool a top end i7 rig down quite well

if you are looking to upgrade in the future, it may be worth considering [bear in mind your cpu block is a 1366 socket model]

you would also need fittings for this
i reccomend 1/2' barbs with your 7/16' tubing
this works best imo

if you want compression fittings, bitspower are the only way to go but are very expensive

Well my sig is uptodate, but I'm planning on buying an i5/i7 at the same time as the watercooling gear, so this is why I choose that socket.

Picked the wrong size tubing have I. Whats best, use the tubing to suit the standard fittings on the block, or buy new fittings and a wider tube? I'm guessing the wider the tube, the better the flow and thus cooler temps.

BenJ · 22 Oct 2009 at 13:17

Bubo said:
By default the ddc-pro comes with moulded plastic 3/8" barbs, so if you are planning on using 1/2" tubing then you ought to be thinking about a replacement top of some kind which you can screw the correct barb size into, the res-top has been mentioned but there are others if you want to keep the mirco res. The alternative is to use reducers but you don't want to doing that. You will also need to make sure you have all the little bits like hose clips for the barbs, think about if you want a drain line which will need a T and a valve, think about if you want a dedicated fillport, a funnel will help filling, do you need anti kink coils etc. Its the small bits which are often the easiest to overlook when you make your first water cooling order.

The res was just a complete stab in the dark in terms of choice. I just thought it would be easier to guess some parts and see what people thought, rather than asking someone to spec the whole lot. So ditch the res and get the res top. Drain lines and fillports, is there a website which explains all these parts maybe?