ISO/shutter speed advice for sunny days

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Having recently upgraded from a Nikon D50 where anything over iso400 was fairly horrible-looking, I'm now getting to grips with my Fuji X-T10 before I head off to Cuba.

I will try to do some testing myself but I was wondering if anyone could give me some general advice on iso and shutter speed. I generally use aperture priority, but with my 35mm f/2 I'm going to try to avoid to temptation to shoot absolutely everything at f/2 and risk missing focus.

So, Cuba street photography. What settings would you start with? Obviously very dependent on the light but if it's blazing sun and I'm shooting with the light, would you expect iso100 would give me a quick enough shutter speed to do a bit of running and gunning (e.g. firing off a few discreet snaps at people as I/they walk past for example)? Or would you expect to bump up the iso to get a shutter speed high enough to be 'safe' enough to do that sort of thing.

At what iso would I expect to start seeing noise in brighter conditions?

Thanks!

 

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I've never really liked the idea of auto iso. a lot of potential to 'ruin' (maybe not quite) good shots if it favours a faster shutter speed over potential noise? I've never used it though so I may be wrong. Or do you use it in full manual?

 

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I use Auto ISO most of the time on my XT10 and it's brilliant. <snip>

Also enable the electronic shutter and you will be able to shoot wide open in the brightest conditions. Be aware that having electronic shutter enabled limits you to ISO 3200 I think.

Is using the electronic shutter just so that you can go faster than 1/4000th? I ended up reading about Auto ISO, I haven't read anything specific to the X-T10 but it sounds in general it is more advanced than I thought. Hopefully I can use those custom profiles to set some up?

Interesting thoughts DP, I think I agree with your pov. Because I don't shoot much sports, most of the time I am thinking about aperture/dof more than anything so that is where I start with my camera set-up.

I guess the question is now, what I was getting at earlier.. what settings would you expect to use in bright sunlight for taking some nice street shots of people going about their daily business? Like I say, I don't shoot sports so my knowledge on shutter speed is a bit lacking. I know never to go under 1/focal length (i.e. 1/35th as I've only got my prime) but beyond that I'm not sure. Eg. if there's someone walking towards you with a great scene/comp behind them, what shutter speed would you aim for to (a) capture some movement for artistic purposes or alternatively (b) get a good freeze frame so that they are pin sharp?

 

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If the people are moving then your shuttering speed will need to increase but it depends on how fast they are moving. 1/250th works for people walking, 1/500th is a starting point for sports.

You probably want to be in aperture priroty with auto ISO, select aperture based on desired DOF. When you see some people being active you want to shoot then increase the ISO.

Thanks, good tips

after a while , youll know roughly where to set your ISO based on the available light

This is how I always used to shoot, it was a bit more straightforward on the Nikon seen as I was so limited in iso options. It was literally, 200 for sunshine, 400 for shade/grey days, 800 for anything darker and 1600 forget about it -- way too much noise There were no other options physically available on the camera. With a lot more range and usable high-isos on the Fuji I think it's worth looking at auto-iso as suggested.

Next question, probably more relevant to Fuji users but at what iso would I expect to start noticing noise in shots taken in night sunlight?

Also, at f/2 and iso100 on a brilliantly bright sunny day, would I need to go higher than 1/4000 in order not to over-expose? Surely not

 

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I guess the downside is potential for rolling shutter on moving objects or banding from variable light sources. Are either of those things likely over 1/4000th?

I'd be happy putting it to MS+ES, as I understand in that mode it just uses ES above 1/4000th but I'd be wary of not noticing those issues until I load up my shots back home on a monitor. Reading online it sounds like most people just add that setting to their Q menu so they can enable it in bright sunlight if required.