It's filter time....

Youstolemyname · 18 Apr 2010 at 21:22

Right then, have decided not to bother buying a walkabout lens and have plumped for a Crumpler Muffin Top (half photo) to take to the states with me. (Trip Details here: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18132827)

I currently have no filters whatsoever. Zero. None. Nada.

My kit includes a 400D, 10-20 Sigma, 55-250 IS Canon and a nifty 50mm.

The whole filter buying issue looks a minefield: Branded vs unbranded, different sizes, Cokin P-Series for Grads...

So, I have some questions that I hope you guys should be able to help lil n00bie me with

1. I need UV filters for lens protection so I am told. What size do I need for each lens respectively (research on the sigma website leads me to 77mm for Sigma- but some sites say 82!, 58mm for the Canon 55-250, 52mm for the nifty)

2. Does it really make a huge difference going branded vs unbranded? I.e. Konika vs Hoya

3. I want a circular polariser so I am told for the bright sunny days, what other filters would you suggest? I am also considering the Cokin P-series kit to slot in some grads for the landscape work.

4. Anything I have missed out there?

Thanks for any help and assistance

Stupot_ · 18 Apr 2010 at 21:30

Might get flamed for this...

Don't buy any filters apart from a CPL if you feel you need one.

Reasons?

UV/skylight/whatever filters will degrade quality, however good they say they are. I used to have one on until I used it indoors, caused a lot of flare.

Whilst they may protect the front element somewhat, a lens hood will do the same, as will looking after your kit. Also, not really worth spending £50+ on a decent filter, to protect the kit lens worth the same amount.

I don't have much experience with circular polarisers but will get one at some point... Probably worth getting if you're expecting good weather. Also, worth getting a larger one to fit your 10-20 sigma, and then a 58 to 77mm step up ring so you can use your other lenses.

Cokin series - I wouldn't bother to be honest. I have a P series with a few ND grads. Haven't used it in years, it's a lot of kit, and considering the amount of time it takes to set up, I really don't think its worth the hassle. I'd rather travel light when on hols.

p0ss3s3d · 18 Apr 2010 at 21:48

I wouldn't bother with UV filters. I've never used them and not had a problem. (only exception being the 17-35L in the rain to seal it or on any of my lenses at gravel rally circuits - so I just have a single 77mm filter)

A circular polariser is a great filter. Probably the only you can't really get in post-processing. Reducing reflections of cars/water and darkening skies and saturating colours.

As for ND grads. Great if your shooting landscapes and don't want to mess aound with layer masks and bracketing. Probably only worth buying the stronger two or three stop grad. One stop is easy to correct in PP.

Shadowness · 18 Apr 2010 at 21:53

Don't bother with UV filters...end.

Yes get a good circular polariser, definitely worth it.

As above, if you want to get serious about landscape photography, get a good set of ND grad filters, as you can't fake them well in photoshop. I've just bought some Lee ND grad filters, very good stuff! But $$$

A.N.Other · 18 Apr 2010 at 22:08

Insure your gear and lose the UV filters. Get a CP if you like, but you'll probably find ND grads and NDs most useful for landscapes. If you're looking at grads, then I'd highly recommend HiTech as a high-quality, intermediate-price option.

MikeHunt79 · 18 Apr 2010 at 22:38

What are people's thoughts on branded vs unbranded. I bought an unbranded 52mm CPF today for a mere £3.

What difference would I see compared to a £30 Hoya pro filter?

p0ss3s3d · 18 Apr 2010 at 22:47

^
sharpness saturation contrast, build quality, light loss, AF performance

Like I said only use the UV if gravel is flying your way or you need it to seal the lens because of the weather. Otherwise there is very little point.

Shadowness · 19 Apr 2010 at 08:25

If you've got a nice lens, its stupid putting a crap filter on it. It's like putting remoulds on a Ferrari, you just wouldnt do it, unless you're a tight ass!

D.P. · 19 Apr 2010 at 08:28

Youstolemyname said:
Right then, have decided not to bother buying a walkabout lens and have plumped for a Crumpler Muffin Top (half photo) to take to the states with me. (Trip Details here: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18132827)

I currently have no filters whatsoever. Zero. None. Nada.

My kit includes a 400D, 10-20 Sigma, 55-250 IS Canon and a nifty 50mm.

The whole filter buying issue looks a minefield: Branded vs unbranded, different sizes, Cokin P-Series for Grads...

So, I have some questions that I hope you guys should be able to help lil n00bie me with

1. I need UV filters for lens protection so I am told. What size do I need for each lens respectively (research on the sigma website leads me to 77mm for Sigma- but some sites say 82!, 58mm for the Canon 55-250, 52mm for the nifty)

2. Does it really make a huge difference going branded vs unbranded? I.e. Konika vs Hoya

3. I want a circular polariser so I am told for the bright sunny days, what other filters would you suggest? I am also considering the Cokin P-series kit to slot in some grads for the landscape work.

4. Anything I have missed out there?

Thanks for any help and assistance

1)I wouldn't bother with UV/protection filters for any of those lenses.
2) Yes, if you have a highly engineered piece of equipment with precision optics and the highest quality glass Canon or whoever can equip a lens with, why on earth would you want to put a cheap bit of plastic or glass in front of it. Cheaper filters tend to reduce contrast, reduce sharpness, increase flare, suffer vignetting due to wide filter ring, give colour casts, and have poor quality rings which can jam on your lens thread. I Use B&W now after bad experience with cheaper brands like Hoya, and I certainly wouldn't look at the super cheap brands. Hoya is a strating point really. However, some hoya stuff is re-branded, but this tends to be the lower end stuff which is best avoided. The Hoya Pro 1 digital and HD range are good starting points, but as I said, I have had bad experience so will never touch Hoya again - B&W all the way .

3) ND (Neutral density) for long exposures. CIruclar filter is fine.
ND-Grad (goes form grey to transparent, useful for landscape work. Need to be ina q quare holder like the cokin. Lea and Singh-Ray are better. The cheap Cokin filters are not actual neutral I have some Cokin ND/ND-Grads collecting dust in a cupboard because as well as reducing sharpness they leave a dirty brown colour cast.

4) When you buy a filter, buy the best you can afford. It will last 10 years happily and go form lens to lens, camera to camera. And buy in the largest size you need, 77mm usually, and simply buy a set of step-down rings.

Be careful of getting filters for UWA lenses like your Sigma 10-20, you will tend to get vignetting on standard width filters and you tend to need to buy slim versions.

DJ_Switch · 19 Apr 2010 at 10:08

D.P. said:
The cheap Cokin filters are not actual neutral I have some Cokin ND/ND-Grads collecting dust in a cupboard because as well as reducing sharpness they leave a dirty brown colour cast.

Agreed. This is definitely worth noting.

The only filter I really carry around with me all the time these days is my Hoya R72. I'm not sure whether there's better IR filters out there although that was the one recommended to me.