Japan Trip 2023 - Long Post

Caporegime
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Not sure if I should post this in GD or the photos section....wish we had a travel sub forum but anyhow.

This trip total of 11 days but I landed in the evening and left on the morning on either end meaning I only had 9 full days.

The itinerary were split into 3 phrases as follows:-

3 Days in Tokyo

3 Days backpacking through Matsumoto -> Kanazawa -> Kyoto

3 days in Tokyo



The aim of the trip was to get photos of the Sakura season, photos of life in Japan and eat lots of food. In total, according to the watch I walked as much as 25km a day, as little as 15km, total over 170km so 100miles. Somehow I gained 4lbs when I weighted myself. Lol

Before I start talking about the trip, I want to talk about the basics for travelling in Japan in 2023.

Data plan – There are loads of options, Pocket Wifi, where you rent a little portable wifi thing. The good thing about them is they have unlimited data, they are quite fast, and multiple people can connect to one. If you have more than 1 person in the group, this is the best option.

The 2nd option is to get a physical sim card, either order one before you leave or buy one when you arrive.

The 3rd option is e-sim. I used a company call Airalo, it cost £20 for 30 days of data with 20G. I ended up using about 7.5G in 10 days which was plenty. However I did switch off background app update, to prevent hundreds of mb to be used.

I’ve tried all 3 options over the years, I think the e-sim is the best one if your phone can do it. You can set it up before you leave, leave the phone line switch on, point the phone’s data to the Japan sim. Speed isn’t amazing, about 3mbps but it is fast enough for even YouTube on the go, got connection absolutely everywhere. No need to return the pocket wifi and no extra piece of hardware to carry and keep charged.

On the Shinkansen now if you have luggage on the LARGE size, then you need to book the spaces at the end of each carriage for free, or face a small fine (or fee, its in the tens, not hundreds of pound). But the overhead spaces will fit all carry on luggage, or even some check in luggage, provided you can lift it up over your head.

Overall I think I did the one thing that I advise people not to do, which is to pack too much in.

On paper, it doesn’t seem like I packed too much in as I had 6 days in Tokyo, but what happened was in the moment, I always wanted to go to the next place, and I didn’t really have a rest day. I knew I would walk a lot but over 100 miles was unexpected. Although to me, that would be a waste of money to go all the way there to “rest” in Japan.

I would probably have liked to spent another day or 2 in Kyoto, there is never enough time for Kyoto. I would have liked to have spent more days without an aim, just picked an area and linger, but again, that seems like a waste to me. As every day I had a target, a photo in mind, a place I need to be at X o’clock, either to make the dinner reservation, to make the sunset hour at certain spot, to get to a place before it shuts. Less of that would have been ideal but it is very difficult to do, at least once I am there in person. It’s a mindset I need to get out of, but then again, I enjoy it so I don’t know!

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The long version below….

To get around

If you have an iPhone, go to the Wallet and add a travel card, call Suica

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You can link it to Apple Pay, then you can top up the card on the go. This is used on all transport in Japan. Although Suica is technically only can be purchased in the Tokyo region, it works all over. I used it on the bus in Kyoto, or pay to enter temples in Sendai.

Other places and companies offer their own version of the card, in physical form, but Suica is AFAIK, the only digital one. There is an Andriod version, but you will need an app in Japanese and it is tricky to set up and might actually need a Japanese phone.

Otherwise, you can purchase these IC cards (what they are called), like Oyster cards, from machines for 500yen, refundable when returned. The problem with physical card is you can only top up at the machines. With the Phone I can top up on the go.

JR Pass, about £200 for 7 days. ONLY worthwhile if you are going on the bullet train, and only really more than twice, depending on distances. Use the link below, put in your travel plan and see if the total cost is worth getting it. I normally get it when it breaks even. Because then I will use it on the JR subway in Tokyo, like the Yamanote Line (Circle Line in London), and a couple of lines. So to save a few quid here and there. Remember though, they only issue the JR Pass once, need to be picked up in person and if lost, tough luck. You cannot get another one, even with proof of purchase, no matter how hard you beg.

https://www.japan-guide.com/railpass/

The site I get it from is the official one, which actually cost about £30 more than getting it through an agent. However, if you get it from an Agent, they post you the voucher to exchange for the pass when you get there, which cost like £14 for postage! So the price difference is about £15. With the official site you get emailed the “voucher” and you can show the email to the JR counter in Tokyo to exchange for the ticket, so you don’t lose the voucher or “forgot” to bring it with you.

The biggest benefit with getting it from the official site is you can reserve your seats online. Order your JR Pass in the 30days leading up to it (max 90 days), and within the 30 days you can reserve your seats online. Otherwise you have to either go to one of those ticket machines or go to the counter. Whereas I did it all before I left the UK. When I went to pick up the JR Pass, I also picked up all the ticket reservations tickets (which you don’t really need in all honesty)

https://japanrailpass.net/en/

Apps to navigate

Google maps – remember to use filter to filter out transport that you don’t want to use.

Navitime – Remember to use the filter for JR Pass as the JR Pass is not valid for the 2 fastest Shinkansen.

Day 0

The first evening I went to Nakameguro but it was a bust as it wasn’t lit as well as I hoped and I didn’t have my tripod with me.

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Quick stop to say hi to Hachiko

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Day 1

Today’s itinerary started off with Gotokuji, the cat temple. The reason being that Japan doesn’t really open until 10am at the earliest, or 11am for most places. So for the first few hours in the morning, it’s actually best to go to temples or shrines

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I found a cat in Gotokuji (Cat Temple) so I guess i found god.

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I was so early I was the only one there for about 15mins, then I nipped over to Nakameguro River, a popular spot for Sakura in Tokyo, a river lined with over 800 trees either side for about 2km. The plan was also go to Starbucks Roastery but it was so busy they operated a QR code virtural queuing system and I didn’t have time to linger around so I left and went to Ghibli Cream Puff place call Shirohige’s cream puff. Technically, this store isn’t an official Ghibli store or any way associated with it, but the lady that owns it is a family member of Hayao Miyazaki so it has an unofficial approval and why it hasn’t got shut down.

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They are famous for 1 thing and it’s their Totoro looking cream puffs, I got it and made my way back to my hotel room as I wasn’t planning to eat 2. (This is where I had my first of many accidents with my camera, first I dropped it and broke the filter on the lens)

After that I realised I haven’t eaten anything so stopped over at Family Mart for some fried chicken and Nikuman (Pork bun). I also went back to the hotel and near by JR Office to pick up my JR Rail Pass and got some pilers to get the broken filter off the camera.

In the afternoon I continued my Sakura seeking mission and went to Shinjuku Gardens.

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People tend to gather under the tree and use the flowers as backdrop for their instagram pics.

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The last place to stop off before dark was Chidorigafuchi Park for more Sakura. Then somewhere along the way I realised I noticed the eye piece on my camera was missing so headed over to Yodabashi in Akihabara to get a replacement. Funnily enough Eye-Piece when said slowly in Japanese, the guy understood me perfectly. It must be the same word in Katakana.

Then for dinner I had made reservation at a Omasake place, 26 courses of hand made sushi.

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Day 2


Today’s mission was try to see Mt Fuji. So I took the train at like 7am to Fujiyoshida, where I previously took this photo.

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Except this time I wasn't so lucky, also the place is now a tourist magnet! It was so busy with foot traffic there is enough people to sustain this coffee shop across the street.

(the day after it was great clear!). Also, the Sakura isn’t ready, it was probably about a week too soon for this place.

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Found a shrine nearby

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So I made my way to the famous Chureito Pagoda, even though i know it will be cloudy.

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Also, the Sakura isn’t ready, it was probably about a week too soon for this place. So by about 1pm I decided to head back to Tokyo. In the evening I just went to Sensoji Temple (packed!) and did light shopping for some Ghibli Art books.

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Day 3

Today’s mission is leave Tokyo for a day trip to Enoshima. A little island off the coast. A popular family day out spot for the locals.

It's a fun little island to browse, just a couple of temples, a garden, a viewing tower and a cave.

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This loop thing, you have to go through it like 4 or 5 times in certain directions for good luck

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There is a rocky side of the island where there is an ancient cave and also people taking selfies and fishing.

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The cloud cleared just in time for sunset. You can actually see Mt. Fuji from this far away.

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Day 4


Today’s journey starts from Tokyo -> Kami Suwa -> Narai-juku -> Matsumoto

A very long day today, sakura outside the hotel are all but finished.

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First stop is nothing more than to satisfy my curiosity of seeing this shot of the Anime Your Name in real life.

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Just a brief stop before heading to the station, came across this monstrosity of a building with a Lawsons in lol



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Random thing i saw at a train station waiting room, which has a ramen store, but no direct seating so people sat and ate noodles in the waiting area.

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Then I took a local train to Narai-Juku. The attraction to this little town, or village, is this is one of the old, existing Postal towns that back in like the 1800’s or before, the Japanese, mostly Nobles and Samurai took on the route between Kyoto to Tokyo on foot and they travel through the mountains and stop over these places to sleep.

It is nice that it is still VERY much untouched by modern society bar the gift shops selling trinkets to make ends meet by the locals now. There are no convenient stores in the village and no chains to be seen anywhere. After about 3hrs I got to the train to Matsumoto.

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After that I headed to Matsumoto for the night, there was only 1 thing I wanted to see in Matsumoto and it is the castle. I heard they lit it at night and they did and it was PACKED!!!
On the way I took one of my favourite photo. The Sakura here is still in full bloom.

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Day 5



In the morning I went to check it out again in the day light for sunrise before head off to Kanazawa.

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I just love this little path by the river to the castle.

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The mountains in this area are very impressive.

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Kanazawa

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After checked into the hotel i went to the local market for lunch and check out this market. It's on all the guidebooks, but IMO it's okay, same as most other Japanese market really but it's less for tourists, and i would say most of it is for locals shopping, lots of seafood to be sold here.

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This Waygu sushi was delicious though.

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First evening in Kanazawa was nothing more than checking out the old district that is similar to Gion in Kyoto, the area is where 90% of Gold in Japan comes from so you can get a lot of Gold related stuff, cheaper than elsewhere. You will find fold in pretty much anything, including an ice-cream….this is where I can say, my poop is made of gold, after eating this.

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Kanazawa is famous for their gold, they put it on everything.



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The city gets pretty dead after 6pm, practically everything shut except some restaurants, or Izakaya.

Day 6
In the morning went to check out the castle and the garden.

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Caught a wedding shoot in the garden.

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After checking out of the hotel I headed to Kyoto, my mission for Kyoto was quite simple. I had been here 4 times before, everytime I came the platform in Kiyomizu Dera was under reconstruction and last year they reopened it so I wanted to see it without the scaffolding.

Kyoto



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This is the platform where the legend goes that if you can jump off and survive....one's wish will be granted....



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Starbucks...

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I did wanted to go to the largest Pagoda in Japan to see the night lit up garden but i was too late.

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Day 7

This next morning I decided to walk and explore the east side of Kyoto, main route was Philosopher’s Path. Lots of tourists.

saw more wedding photoshoots

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or Instagram photos...

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These are the steps Scarlett Johansson walked over in Lost in Translation.

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Day 8

Yokohama Day.



In the morning I made reservation to Starbucks so I got to go in, had a cocktail for breakfast with a coffee and made my way to Yokohama.

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First stop was the Cup Noodle Museum, made a booking to make my own cup but they didn’t have a slot until 4pm – 5pm….

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I had tickets to go to the platform for the Gundam at 4pm so I booked 5pm for the Cup Noodle experience.

Went to the Gundam Factory, took some pics but dropped my film camera, somehow the links came undone and it fell. I had used 1 roll of film to take average 3 photos a day for the trip..i had taken 35/36 shots when it fell. In the moment I tried to wind it after the winder was bent and snapped the film inside in half.



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Anyway, when the Gundam viewing thing ended at 4:50…I had 25mins to run to make a 29min walk on Google Maps. I made it at 5:18. And had to think of an idea of what to draw on the Cup.

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Day 9.

“Relax” Day. This day was originally planned as a spare day to chase Sakura, had I not been lucky I would have used this day to head north to find Sakura. But seeing I had caught loads then the plan was then to take it easy, doing some light shopping in Tokyo.

As most stores don’t open until like 11am in the morning I went to this infamous spot where a tunnel, a bridge, and a station all can be seen in the same frame. The sun also rises right in this direction so had I been early enough it would have looked amazing.

Then went to Akihabara, then Ochanomizu to see some guitars.

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Then went over to Shinjuku and then Shin-Okubo to check out Korean town. Then I had to pop back to Sensoji for something before going back to Shibuya to Nintendo Store and Pokémon centre.

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Overall the trip was great, some disappointments like not seeing Mt Fuji with Sakura like I planned, I was about 7-14 days too early for that. However, I caught it in Matsumoto and Kanazawa which was great. I got some good pictures, ate a LOT of sushi, not enough ramen and too much food from the Kobini.



A couple of observations:-

This time round it seems all the Japanese people thought I am also Japanese. I swear this didn’t happen before. This started at Heathrow airport when I went to baggage drop, I was just looking aimlessly where the ANA counter was when one of their staff came up to me and started speaking Japanese…And then in Japan everyone spoke to me in Japanese in the first instance.

A lot of places now take cards, VISA, Mastercard, Amex etc. The machine however that does the contactless….slightly different looking than ours, it’s like a box with clear glass panel thing. Some stores don’t have contactless and need to stick the card in for Chip & Pin, a couple of places didn’t even need that! Just stick the card in and money was taken. Very 2000’s tech. but at least, you can get by in Tokyo cashless in the majority of cases if you don’t go to small restaurants.

Still very few bins anywhere, that hasn’t changed. I notice a lot of taxi has swapped over to London Cab style, didn’t take any but the older Toyota ones are being replaced with these newer designs.
 
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Awesome post :)
Noticed that a lot of people wearing masks,compared to here in the UK

Yeah, they only recently dropped the guidance (not a mandate, even though a lot of Youtubers used the word, but in Japan, guidance from the government might as well be a mandate as people follow it.) So from March 14th? or thereabouts, you don't need to wear a mask, even on trains, but I notice even on trains most people still do, all staff in the service industry still do, I would say 99% of locals still do and about 25% of tourists do too. It is hayfever season afterall now. If you don't though, nobody will say anything or even look at you. They spent a month on this campaign beforehand to tell people it's now okay not to wear a mask and it's now a choice. So if you don't want to, don't wear one, it's fine. I worn one on the packed rush hour train but didn't on the Shinkansen or rural trains.
 
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What an adventure, wonderful insight, thanks Raymond.

The picture of the Cup Noodle Museum, with all the pots on display - would make a very cool print!

The last picture with the Maserati Biturbo just happening to drive past the Zebra crossing!

Got lucky with the Maserati, I must admit! I took this with the very slow Fuji X100 (original from 2012) so it's slow as heck and i was shooting single shot and not in bursts.

I took most of the others with a Sony A7R3 so definitetly can print that photo of the Cup Noodle massive. they had a room full of it. 3 sides of this room was like this basically.

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excellent shots ... liked the cat amongst cats
so I'm guessing most didn't use your iphone ? is bracketting of shots a common tool in your arsenal, with some post processing

I actually took lots of photos with my iPhone, there is an iPhone photos in the thread, you think you can spot it?

And no, i don't bracket my shots. I just edit with a preset that i made and then tweak accordingly, it's very simple and quick on most images.
 
To be fair, it was pretty cheap beforehand given the one way costs.

They know they can charge whatever they want, it will still sell.

It’s still cheaper than a 14 day euro rail pass…and the trains are a lot better in Japan.

But it does mean if you want to save money going from one end of the country to the other, take the plane.
 
Wow, what an amazing trip. I will read this over and over.
Always wanted to go to Japan, is it an expensive country to visit?

No, it's cheap compared to the UK, the exchange rate currently specially makes it a bargain with the exception of flight. Hotels wise....at least during Sakura it would be expensive if you didn't book early in the big city.

In Tokyo the places I booked for 10 nights was £660, that was my original plan, to use Tokyo as a base and do day trips with the JR Pass. So i booked the room for 10 nights. But as i planned the trip i wanted to do this loop to Matsumoto, Kanazawa and Kyoto before coming back to Tokyo. 3 nights away. When i went to cancel and rebook the same hotel with 7 nights...those 7 nights would cost more than the 10 nights i booked. So I left the booking as is. Meaning the room was empty for 3 nights i was away. Which is good as I stored my big suitcase and my souvenirs there and took a backpack for the 3 days.

Away from Tokyo, Matsumoto and Kanazawa I got nice hotels for about £50 a night. The Kanazawa one actually went down in price with a week to go. I always try to book with "free to cancel", so i did and then rebook and save £5...which I used to upgrade the same room with breakfast for £7.

Kyoto room was "expensive", that room was £110 or something, but Kyoto during Sakura is always expensive.

Food wise, cheap, I gave myself 10,000 yen budget a day and that was plenty. Mostly because I always skip breakfast or eat Konbini breakfast which would be max £5.

Flight however has gone up, it used to be like £700 would get you to Japan even in peak season, I paid £1500...long store. Originally I booked a return with JAL with Premium Economy for £1300 back in October, but 2 months later, 2 days before Christmas i got an email from JAL that they moved both my flights.

Before - land at 7am on arrival
After change - land at 4pm

So I lost 9hrs

Before - Depart at 11am
After change - Depart at 12pm mignight....moved forward by almost 12hours.

Meaning the last night of the hotel I booked was wasted. I would rebook the hotel, but as i mentioned, the prices shot up so it would cost me more to rebook. Not to mention it was a connecting flight with a stop over in Helsinki, they didn't move forward the return leg of the flight from Helsinki to London so it would mean a 11hr layover at Helsinki airport...

I thought, no thanks....so I got a refund from JAL and book direct with ANA, but only the return was Prem Eco, even both legs in Eco would be about £1300 or so due to how late i am now booking a flight. So I got shafted there from JAL. Back in 2019 i went and flew direct with BA, same hotel, same length of stay, £1100 all in. I think this time i spent £1500 on flights and about £800 on hotels, £200 on JR Pass.
 
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I'd say fuji shot V from cloud posterization
but, it's a difficult call going on an expensive holiday (£66/night isn't bad though) without a zoom lense and dedicated camera ?
Nope, it’s the one with the 2 women in Kimonos walking by the Sakura trees.

This is fantastic, thank you for posting. I am going late summer via middle east and Hong Kong. Can't wait, this will really help plan what I do as seems to be so much to try and fit in!

Wear comfortable shoes, i had 5 blisters. Went to Family Mart to get a sewing kit for the needle to pop them and soldiered on but I advise take it easy and enjoy the area that you are in. I don’t suppose people go there to chase photos like i do, meaning chasing the light constantly.

Pick an area, explore. Find out what the local dish is, what it’s famous for, try that. Every area in Japan is famous for some food, be it the beef, the tofu, the oranges, apples, melons or Sake or Ramen. Try the food in that region, that’s also a fun way. The white bait that i had, that is what Enoshima is famous for, i didn’t have it because it was on the menu. Kanazawa is famous for the gold and you can eat it….so there is that. As for Matsumoto, that one I admit i didn’t research about the local food, but i think it’s Apples as I bought some Apple flavoured Kitkat from there in the castle’s gift shop. Kyoto is famous for their green tea, hence the matcha ice cream and matcha latte. Tokyo, it’s just a mix of everything really.
 
Did you have to apply for a visa waiver here @Raymond Lin?

Erm, i only did this


I think it’s temporary now, its more for covid, which since they now reclassified Covid to flu now it is going away soon i think.

UK nationals don’t need a VISA waiver application, like ESTA for the states, when you land you get a piece of sticker stuck on your passport and that give you 90 days in the country. When you buy stuff in shops that allows tax free, you show them your passport and they check that sticker to confirm you are a tourist for the tax free. Sorry, got off track there but nothing to fill in for VISA.
 
Nice one, thanks! I was busy going through the site you linked to when I asked, but I got a bit worried because it asks for visas etc. so I thought you did need a visa waiver like the ESTA.

Not seeing any COVID-related questions regarding vaccination etc. on that site so far which I was expecting. I see it now.

Currently, when you land, straight out of the tunnel/bridge off the plane there is a swamp of airport staff holding out signs to ask you to show the webpage.

Basically, the website above is where you up load some information about your vaccination status, they then check it and then when approved, the page of your profile is blue and has a QR code. If it's another colour, for whatever reason? like only 2 shots instead of 3. (So you need to save the page as PDF as proof or have internet soon as you land, which is where my e-sim came in handy)

People who are triple vaccinated goes in 1 queue, everyone else go to another. This includes people who hasn't pre-filled in the online form in that page. If you decide not to fill in, and bring physical copies print out of your NHS covid status then it will take longer to go through immigration.

It took me about an hour to get out of the airport, and I power-walked as fast as i could the moment I got off the plane, they don't have the staff level as before covid so everything takes a bit longer. There must have been another plane or 2 landed at the same time because the queue behind me got VERY long. There are reports of people landing at night (8pm) and was still there at midnight.
 
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Thanks so much for the info! I have no chance of rushing anywhere with a 3 year old, but maybe they'll bump us to the front of the line when they see him.

lol, no, the Japanese are very nice but they don't break rules. Unless there is a rule specifying families with children go first, you queue with everyone else.

I would try to limit your time in the airport by having things like e-sim, so no need to pick up a physical sim card, and have Suica card installed in your phone and topped up, or at least know how to buy one at the airport. There are plenty of youtube videos showing this, even like what buttons to press on the screen and how to top up on the machine too. Get yourself familiarised with that can save some time.

Also, depends which airport you land in and where your hotel is, it can be faster and more convenient to take a limousine bus to the hotel. It's just a coach really but they call it limousine bus. Essentially a bus service from airport to the City, stopping by specific locations, mostly hotels across the city. I try to stay at hotels at these stops or one next to it. It makes going to and from the airport much easier. Especially if you have lots of luggage, as some stations, smaller ones, do not have lifts and blocking the escalator is a MASSIVE no no. Like London, you stick to 1 side of the escalator.


This is the site showing the buses from the airports (Haneda is 30mins from Tokyo, Narita is like 90mins away.). It's was 1300 yen from my hotel to Haneda, which isn't bad, but the train is about half that though, but that is from Ikebukuro, so need to change trains, including getting on the Yamanote Line (like the Circle Line in London, so it's always packed).

You can get the ticket for the limo bus to the airport from the hotel front desk, even if you don't stay at that hotel. Just go to the front desk and reserve a seat a few days before, it's what i do. It is much easier to do this on the way back home. Leave the luggage with them after check out and go explore the city, come back to take the bus to the airport. But you pay on the day, cash only.

oh, if you decide to take a Taxi, since there are a few of you, that might be better if you land in Haneda. Remember, DO NOT OPEN OR CLOSE THE DOOR YOURSELF. They have a button that does it.
 
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