Japan

Soldato
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I'm off to Tokyo for work in mid-September, and am looking at booking a week or so off beforehand to spend some extra time out there. Sadly that's probably all I can get off at the moment, or I'd have been keen to take more.

My work (therefore my flights) will be to/from Tokyo. With a week off, am I therefore best off staying around there? I'm not a particularly big city person, and would love to visit some of the quieter islands or at least get up into the mountains. I'm also keen to head to Kyoto, although my understanding is that, with the train, that can almost be a day trip or a quick overnight. What do people recommend?
 
I'll be going myself in a few weeks.

I plan to sprint to the middle of Shibuya crossing with the misses and get on one knee so that's exciting! Providing I don't get kicked in the swede :P
Wow, that is exciting! Congrats!

If you come back with any recommendations (aside from engagement) I'm all ears.
 
Obligatory just ask Raymond post.

You called? :p

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A week huh....Not a city person....

Kyoto wise...You can go and I think it is a great place, but AVOID the main attractions like the plague between the hours of 8am to sunset if you don't like crowds, those are Fushimi Inari, Kiyomizu Dera and Kinkakuji. Although the latter 2 have an opening and closing time so it will be busy whenever you go anyway. But the area around Kiyomizu Dera is shoulder to shoulder with tourist, and I am not exaggerating with that description.

As a result, the buses that goes to these places are also absolutely packed, and I mean so packed if you are one of the lucky ones that got a seat....but plan to get off a stop sooner, you might not be able to because it is that full. There is a very limited underground subway system that basically has 2 lines, it goes like a + shape, north to south and east to west. You can somewhat use that to help and walk the rest of the way. I tend to stay in the middle and walk. Most of the famous stuff are actually on the East side of town, like Gion (btw, NO photos there now, you will get fined if you do, due to pesky tourists harrssing the Geisha)

So if you were go to Kyoto, stay away from the main tourists stop and you will have a lovely time.


As for day trip to Kyoto, i've done it from Tokyo...its like 3hrs door to door each way though, not quick or cheap, it's like £200 return ticket. The plane is actually cheaper although not faster because Kansai airport is like an hour plus from Kyoto, add in the time to get to Haneda, check in, boarding, flight time, landing etc....you won't save time flying.

Overnight stay in Kyoto is preferred, then you can get up at 5am and go to Araishiyama and Fusihmi Inari when there are fewer people around.

But anyway....not city...which is hard because most of the country side places are best to get to by car....And are you planning to do Day Trips or planning to travel around Japan?

p.s. I am going again in November too!
 
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Anyway....places to go from Tokyo on a Day Trip

Kamakura
Enoshima
Hakone (Overnight with onsen preferred)
Kawagoe
Nikko
Lake Kawaguchi (or one of the 5 Lakes by Mt Fuji, you can stay overnight if you want, otherwise best to get there at 1st bus in the morning, book online well in advance, or take the train...otherwise it's car hire)

There you go, that's 6 places.

You can also go for a hike in Mt Takao.
 
Just came back from there, had a great time. Seems like this Raymond guy knows what he's talking about.

As he said, the transport system is very efficient but about 70-100 pounds per 1 way ticket on the bullet train.

If you can do 2-3 days instead of day trips, you might get more out of it. I fully recommend Kanazawa, had some of the best times there.
 
You called? :p

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A week huh....Not a city person....

Kyoto wise...You can go and I think it is a great place, but AVOID the main attractions like the plague between the hours of 8am to sunset if you don't like crowds, those are Fushimi Inari, Kiyomizu Dera and Kinkakuji. Although the latter 2 have an opening and closing time so it will be busy whenever you go anyway. But the area around Kiyomizu Dera is shoulder to shoulder with tourist, and I am not exaggerating with that description.

As a result, the buses that goes to these places are also absolutely packed, and I mean so packed if you are one of the lucky ones that got a seat....but plan to get off a stop sooner, you might not be able to because it is that full. There is a very limited underground subway system that basically has 2 lines, it goes like a + shape, north to south and east to west. You can somewhat use that to help and walk the rest of the way. I tend to stay in the middle and walk. Most of the famous stuff are actually on the East side of town, like Gion (btw, NO photos there now, you will get fined if you do, due to pesky tourists harrssing the Geisha)

So if you were go to Kyoto, stay away from the main tourists stop and you will have a lovely time.


As for day trip to Kyoto, i've done it from Tokyo...its like 3hrs door to door each way though, not quick or cheap, it's like £200 return ticket. The plane is actually cheaper although not faster because Kansai airport is like an hour plus from Kyoto, add in the time to get to Haneda, check in, boarding, flight time, landing etc....you won't save time flying.

Overnight stay in Kyoto is preferred, then you can get up at 5am and go to Araishiyama and Fusihmi Inari when there are fewer people around.

But anyway....not city...which is hard because most of the country side places are best to get to by car....And are you planning to do Day Trips or planning to travel around Japan?

p.s. I am going again in November too!
I just came back from Japan last week. It's all true, so many tourists you cant even walk around main attractions.
 
Surprised Osaka wasn't recommended. I preferred it over Tokyo and Kyoto. Kanazawa is worth a look too. It's like a smaller less touristy version of Kyoto but with not quite as much of the originality.

Take cash too.
 
Surprised Osaka wasn't recommended. I preferred it over Tokyo and Kyoto. Kanazawa is worth a look too. It's like a smaller less touristy version of Kyoto but with not quite as much of the originality.

Take cash too.
I visited Mijajima as well, was lovely .
 
Surprised Osaka wasn't recommended. I preferred it over Tokyo and Kyoto. Kanazawa is worth a look too. It's like a smaller less touristy version of Kyoto but with not quite as much of the originality.

Take cash too.

Osaka has charms but outside the couple of places, it wasn’t that much to pull me back and I’ve been there 3 times.

Shinsekai - it translate to New World, basically that little tower with lots of restaurants nearby.

Namba area - very modern, a bit like new Shinjuku

Umeda - like Namba, go up the Sky building for the view

Dotonburi - the main attraction with the canal and the food

The castle…go around the grounds but avoid going inside. It’s like a new museum as it’s been rebuilt that way.

Americamura? Shopping

But most of Osaka are these little backstreets and similar to say ebisu or shimokitawa in Tokyo IMO. I am sure at its core they have their own nuances, a bit like Hereford is not the same as Worcester but to a tourist, both are just English cities. Thats how I see these neighbourhoods in big areas of Japanese cities.

What Osaka is great for is a base to visit lots of places, like Kyoto, Nara, Himeji and USJ as hotels in Osaka tend to be cheaper than Kyoto.

My trip after next is probably going to be either Hokkaido or Shikoku.
 
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@Raymond Lin can I shamelessly hijack this thread to ask for your advice?

Just booked flights to Japan for just under 3 weeks in May 2026, from the 4th to the 22nd. Will have 17 full days there.

Worked out cheaper than cherry blossom season, the weather it seems will be better and warmer, and we'll just be arriving at the end of Golden Week so hopefully cheaper and less rush with fewer crowds.

Never been before, just the wife and I. Likely will be our only trip, so keen to make the most of it. Keen to see beautiful sights, eat amazing food (big foodies), get an idea for a variety of the country, have some unique relaxing time where possible (e.g. onsens?). We're not very into hiking or trekking, nor are we big history nerds or obsessed with seeing every temple. Might be nice to do some shopping. We don't drink alcohol so no bars/clubbing for us. Budget is ~£6k, not including flights.

Many thanks
 
@Raymond Lin can I shamelessly hijack this thread to ask for your advice?

Just booked flights to Japan for just under 3 weeks in May 2026, from the 4th to the 22nd. Will have 17 full days there.

Worked out cheaper than cherry blossom season, the weather it seems will be better and warmer, and we'll just be arriving at the end of Golden Week so hopefully cheaper and less rush with fewer crowds.

Never been before, just the wife and I. Likely will be our only trip, so keen to make the most of it. Keen to see beautiful sights, eat amazing food (big foodies), get an idea for a variety of the country, have some unique relaxing time where possible (e.g. onsens?). We're not very into hiking or trekking, nor are we big history nerds or obsessed with seeing every temple. Might be nice to do some shopping. We don't drink alcohol so no bars/clubbing for us. Budget is ~£6k, not including flights.

Many thanks

First off, very jealous of your 3 weeks! I can never get that much time off.

Now to the nitty gritty....right off the bat, when I see the dates in May my mind went straight to Golden Week. 2026 Golden week runs from 29th April to Tues 5th May. You say you get there from the 4? Then if you are travelling on the 5th, book it as soon as you are able to. I know the the Smart Ex (Shinkansen app won't let you book until 1 month out though).

That is my only reservation, after that it will be fine.

Japan has a few Onsen town, Hankone is probably the easy one to get to, you can get there by train from Tokyo, it is the most popular with Tokyo residents on the weekend so it is the most busy and expensive. When you stay in these, find a Ryokan, they normally have an onsen, some in the rooms (you will see it in the photos), some have it inside or a little outdoor space. They are charged per person, and they come with a Kaiseki dinner, like a multi course dinner all served at once, and usually made from local in season ingredients and in season fish. Prepare to pay upwards of £200 per person. It is expensive but it's nice to experience.

Another popular one is Kusatsu, a little awkward to get too but not too bad, its a train then bus. It's quite famous. It's an onsen town and not much else there. Whereas Hakone has this side attraction call Mt Fuji, a pirate ship thing, an open air museum and you can take a cable car to get these onsen eggs that supposed to add 7 years to your life if you eat one.

The onsen cost means yuo are going to have to budget hard for the rest of the trip. As a single person...I tend to break it down like this. (I don't drink either).

£100 per day - this should cover me for all local trains, all food, all snacks, drinks, coffee and entry to museums, temples etc. This was enough for me even when £1 - 125 yen. So Now when £1 is like 195 yen, it's going to feel like everything is on sale, even if Japan put its price up by 20% across the board. In reality, I think £75 is fine in the current exchange rate. For example

A sandwich + drink will set you back like 500-600 yen, that is like £3.
Ramen is like 1500 (for a really nice bowl), that is like £8.
cheap sushi like the conveyer belt ones, the bill tend to be like 80p for the cucumber maki, or perhaps £3 for the fatty tuna. If you mix it up between filler stuff with expensive pieces you can stuff you face for £30. Meaning I seldom spend more than £50 a day on food and I eat GOOD!. So for this exercise lets call it £150 for 2 people per day for food and local train. I am going to leave out the entertainment like entry to museums (Shibuya Sky, Skytree, team labs etc....you should look into all these beforehand and allow anywhere between £20-£30 pp each)

£150 x 20 days =£3,000
Hote hotels, I think £150 a day is easy in Tokyo and very easy in Osaka....a bit harder in Kyoto. So I would aim for like £75 a night hotel in Tokyo, similar or a touch cheaper in Osaka for more room in Kyoto. (if these are the 3 places you have in mind).

Food wise.

Ramen - try the dfferent kinds, Tonkotsu is the one people talk about the most (pork bone), my favourite is Tsukemen.
Sushi, try find an Omakase, there are a few places that can do a 20course for like £100.
There is the Yakitori - there is a popular local spot https://maps.app.goo.gl/sXSN6ZxfQXTFViBB8 on the way to Ghibli Museum. They have English menu I think. When you order, they will ask you whether you want it Salt or Sauce, (Shiyo or Tare), basically dry or wet when its grilled. Look at the photos on google maps, the place is like a local pub. They thought I was Japanese and gave me a Japanese menu and asked me the salt or sauce question in Japanese....I am still amazed I understood what he said and more amazed I answered without stutter lol.

Anyway, I am ranting, what kind of food are you looking to eat?....I have a lot marked on my map in Tokyo alone.

b7yRnxVh.jpg
 
Anyway, I am ranting, what kind of food are you looking to eat?....I have a lot marked on my map in Tokyo alone.

Thanks Raymond, that's super helpful - will take some time to digest it.

Mostly seafood and (if we can find it) halal wagyu. Plus we'll try local staples like ramen etc.

Dont suppose you've got any top 3/5 locations worth staying in each city, aware that Tokyo is absolutely huge. From a cursory read I gather staying near Tokio station is a good idea for the train access?
 
Thanks Raymond, that's super helpful - will take some time to digest it.

Mostly seafood and (if we can find it) halal wagyu. Plus we'll try local staples like ramen etc.

Dont suppose you've got any top 3/5 locations worth staying in each city, aware that Tokyo is absolutely huge. From a cursory read I gather staying near Tokio station is a good idea for the train access?

I am short of time this second so will just answer the hotel part re station.

Stay in Tokyo Station if you want to take the Shinkansen often, it is where it starts and finish. So if say you land in Tokyo and the very next morning you are heading to Kyoto or train up to Sendai, then stay near Tokyo Station.

If however you are going to say Kanazawa, you can stay in Shinjuku.

If you are in Tokyo for like a week, then stay in a place near to things that interests you. You should mark up where you want to go and then look at the map. I will quote myself from another thread.

So...this is the BASIC of the Tokyo subway.

Look at it like this.

Slice the map like a clock. Think about where you want to visit most and stay on that side. The way I do it is....

If you like Anime stuff, Fish market, Ginza shopping, The Imerial Garden, easy access to the airport. I would stay on the right side, between Shambashi at 04:00 up to Uneo at 02:00.

Note - Tokyo Station is where all the Shinkansen start and finishes. Whether you go up north to Sendai, it starts there, or whether you go to Osaka, it starts there. If it goes to Osaka, it will start there and it will make a stop in Shinagawa before leaving the city.

If you like more skyscrapers, more modern, then stay on the West side, I would go from as low as Meguro at about 07:00 up to Ikebukuto at 10:00.

I would try to AVOID staying at places NOT on the green line - Yamanote line, the reason being that almost everything you want to see and do, is on this line, making it convenient. Do not AT ALL, stay at the Hilton in Odiba. That is about 45 min 1 way from Shinjuku, about 1hr+ door to door. You will be spending 2hrs on that train daily if you stay in Odiba. If you are 1 change to the Yamanote line and that hotel is really close to another station and you save a bucket loads then I am not opposed to it but generally I would advice to stay on the area near the Yamanote Line.

I would avoid staying between 7pm to 4pm below and 10:00 to 02:00. South side of the city are very business district, not much to do there, Shimbashi is cool because it is next to Ginza, walkable distance and it is full of bars where the salary men go drinking at night.

If you stay on Shinjuku then it is an easy way to get across to the east side. Otherwise it is easy just to stay on the Yamanote line and do the loop.

I have stayed in Ikebukuro twice, it's like a mini Shinjuku, prices slightly lower, but only like 10mins from Shinjuku on the train.

BTW, Ginza right next to Shimbashi and Yurakucho, it has its own line call the Ginza line.

Asakusa is okay, it is where the SEnsoji temple is, but you will need to change train basically every day because it is not on the Yamanote line. It is the reason why I stayed at Ikebukuro and Shimbashi. Also, the airport Monorail will stop first at Hamatsucho, and then you change to the Yamanote line if you land at Haneda. If you land in Narita then the Airport express will take you to Tokyo Station.

Most tourists will not stop at the stations between 11:00 to 2am and 04:00 to 08:00. They concentrate at the narrow band on either side.

GKuTYFA.jpg
 
When we went during Easter we ended up staying in Hamamatsucho, which I hadn't been considering until quite late, but to me it seemed a pretty good location.

- Direct access from the airport on the monorail (express goes straight to Hamamatsucho station)
- roughly equidistant between the areas we wanted to visit. Shinjuku/shibuya one way and Ueno, Asakusa etc the other way.
- Plenty of pubs/bars/places to eat, although generally we would be eating in whichever area we were visiting anyway.
- Daimon station very close in addition to Hamamatsucho station itself for more train options. You can cut across town to the west side from Daimon instead of looping round on yamanote line.
- Walking distance to Tokyo tower.

Was good for us as first timers.
 
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When we went during Easter we ended up staying in Hamamatsucho, which I hadn't been considering until quite late, but to me it seemed a pretty good location.

- Direct access from the airport on the monorail (express goes straight to Hamamatsucho station)
- roughly equidistant between the areas we wanted to visit. Shinjuku/shibuya one way and Ueno, Asakusa etc the other way.
- Plenty of pubs/bars/places to eat, although generally we would be eating in whichever area we were visiting anyway.
- Daimon station very close in addition to Hamamatsucho station itself for more train options. You can cut across town to the west side from Daimon instead of looping round on yamanote line.
- Walking distance to Tokyo tower.

Was good for us as first timers.

My first time I had the same idea and stayed in Shimbashi, at Park Hotel Tokyo, next to the Royal Park Hotel and the Conrad.

It's fine, walking distance to the old fish market (which was one of the idea) and that Royal Park hotel next door has a direct limousine bus to both airports. Which I find is the best way to get back to the airport. I literally get up, roll the luggage from room to downstairs, out to the hotel's concierge drop off point and then straight to the airport for 1300 yen (£8). No lifting and dragging all the luggage full of snacks and whatnot.

I pick hotels in Tokyo now with 1 eye on hotels on the limo bus' route. Hotel Metropolitan at Ikebukuro is one of those and I stayed there twice because of this reason.
 
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Bear in mind that if you're staying under 90 days you can get a Japan Rail pass for unlimited train journeys on certain routes/lines:

Who is eligible for a JR Pass?

The Japan Rail Pass is accessible to any traveler, with a foreign passport, traveling to Japan with a "temporary visitor" visa of 90 days or less: tourist, business trip, family visit, etc...
People who travel to Japan for more than 90 days (working holiday, military, diplomatic, cultural, research, working visa, etc.) are not eligible.
 
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