Leak Testing

alexkyriak

alexkyriak

alexkyriak

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Joined
8 Jan 2011
Posts
372
Location
London, UK
I just got hold of an EK leak tester. Its
a nice piece of kit, comprising a small pump and gauge.

I have been testing a part of a loop with it, and I get a very slow drop of pressure over the period of about 2 hours. Say from 0.25 bars to 0.15.

In terms of my loop, presume this is bad, as it means I have a very slow leak.

But given this is my first time using this kit, I thought I’d ask anyway: is it normal to drop slowly over time? Or should it stay exactly the same? I presume the latter?

Thanks :)
 
Thanks @Cyber-Mav . I guess my question is: if air leaks, will water? Water has surface tension. Air does not. This is a ‘long’ leak, taking a long time to drop.

Probably a stupid question, but I was wondering if it’s ‘normal’ that a water loop would also be 100% airtight.

Anyway I’ll get testing to try to find out where this leak is occurring from. Cheers.
 
Thanks a lot, all. Yes manual says 0.5 bar, I was testing it a bit low.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109816738.pdf

Did some Googling and it apparently is a thing that systems can fail an air test but then pass a water test, but this is more about plumbing, industrial applications, etc.

But, the very basic physics says air may get out of systems when water may not, mainly due to the difference in viscosity and the differences in pressures between water and air.

Quite how all this applies to, or scales down to, a pc water loop, I don’t know, but bottom line is I think I can’t ignore this very slow air leak.

But, as stated above, a water test will be the only real way to prove it.

The unfortunate part is that this section of the loop has one bit that I spent literally five hours trying to get right… might have to undo it to test it all…!

And yes @VersionMonkey valve was closed. (First few tests it wasn’t…! D’oh!)
 
Hmm. Tested to see if it’s the leak tester. That appears fine. Definitely is a problem in this section of the loop. :( . Going to have to rebuild it. Great vid @V F thanks :)
 
I’ve been able to narrow it down to one of the fittings. It’s not the rads. It’s not the ‘difficult’ junction I thought it might be. So it was one of the fittings. Will have to explore more tomorrow… need a cold beer now. I’ve aged a little today :cry:
 
Ok this is killing me. I keep thinking I’ve found the ‘problem’ point but then I can rule it out. Currently I think the issue is in my reservoir block with the D5 pumps mounted to it. Stupid question but just to rule this out: in an air test scenario, can air leak out of pumps for any reason?
 
Am using a cnc-ed flat reservoir type, it’s a very slightly modified Dynamic Duo made by Radikult.

Solved the issue, finally; was a loose fitting after all, a release valve mounted to the reservoir.

I can’t tell you how many hours and evenings I’ve spent getting this part of the loop sorted. I never want to hear another air pressure tester in my life….! I am imagining leak sounds, air escaping, and I can’t trust anything any more! Bottom line is, I think I was thrown by multiple different components and fittings up til now.

A week’s break from building for a family covid infection didn’t help, but still.

Now onto the next part of the loop build… :)
 
Ok I officially am on the edge, or over it.

Now I’ve discovered that one of the ports on my bottom rad leaks. The rad is a Black ice sr2 360 multi port. I took all the fittings off and replaced them with plugs, and, having gone mildy insane with the leak tester chasing a leak, decided to stick some actual water in it to see what happens.

So one of the ports leaks water, but, it only leaks when I tip the rad up almost vertical, so that the port is at the bottom at the lowest point, ie, it’s under more water pressure. If I leave it horizontal, no water comes out. Yes it is full, so I am fairly sure water is against the port when it is horizontal.

I had previously air tested this rad a week or so ago and had thought it had ‘passed’, no issues. I diligently tried it again today prior to fixing it in for good and, well, the above saga played out… I had previously suspected this port as it didn’t appear to allow metal plugs to work, only those hard plastic ones that came with the rad.

On the plus side, think I now know my coolant colour. It’ll be a hint of ‘blood red of my soul’ mixed with ‘tears of desperation’….
 
Hmm interesting. What are you thinking, just a fine application of clear silicone within the the joint between the plug and the radiator port?
 
So after getting covid, some family issues, returning to work in a real life office, and ordering a new radiator, and painting it, finally got back to where this left off a month ago...! Jeepers this has been a tough build so far.
 
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