LED Switch

R-evans

R-evans

R-evans

Associate
Joined
13 Nov 2012
Posts
2,215
The alternate action button pushes in an clicks in place as, depressed until pressed again, whereas the momentary action button merely clicks once and returns to its nominal state. It's in the description :)

For your use of turning cathodes on you want the first one. For PC power and reset buttons you'd want momentary buttons. The backs of these switches - there is an positive/negative for the LED, positive and negative for the switch

From the description

Technical Specifications:
- 2 Contact NO
- 2 Contact NC
- 1 Contact Power Led
Package Contents:
- 1 Push-Button DimasTech®, Led Color Ring/Illumination
Important:
- Alternate Action: The Push-Button is pressed and released once in this position, until the next press.
Click to expand...
To complete a circuit you need to use a NO and NC pin. When you push the button it closes the NO/NC circuit. You will need power and gound for the LED component, this can be taken from a molex plug, as it's 12v it will be easy peasy
 
With my current cathodes, it has a small transformer attached connected to the PSU via molex and then just two contact pins to the switch.

Will these still be ok with this setup just working as a switch or will they also need to be connected to the PSU?

Cheers for the help.
 
Your cathodes will still need power to the inverter as usual, you'll need to insert this switch were the current switch is. It's been a while since I had cathodes (LEDs are far superior in brightness, colour accuracy and range of colours) but they have a simple rocker on/off in line switch don't they?
 
It will provide a good coverage to half a case. Might not be enough for the whole lot. TBH I don't like these kits, DIY is cheaper, brighter and/or better coverage (less spotlight/glare) in my experience. Do you have access to a soldering iron? If you don't then kits like that are your only option.

I can't go into detail about the DIYing here because it's against forum roolz :(
 
Glad I make my own :p They are probably OK but it looks like very few LEDs for length. For best lighting you want many LEDs close together or you can get uneven lighting. SMD tape with 60 LEDs/m is better in my opinion, but it requires soldering, albeit only a couple of seconds per join. Plus it's flat and self adhesive
 
I kinda like the spaced look of the ones above when I youtubed them. 24 would be enough for me I think.

If I wanted to be really annoying (which I do) could I use them with the switch rather than the panel supplied? Not sure I'd want to fill up a space at the back of the case.
 
The long 24 LED sleeve? Maybe, maybe not, it has 3 brightness levels controlled by the knob on the card. Without knowing how they've wired it up I'd just be guessing

Edit: sigrotor.com, tis great :)
 
Looks like a molex to 3 pin to power the card then 2 pin strip into that.

So should just work off of mobo if I wanted? Or maybe there is a connector to fit it to the switch.
 
It won't be a motherboard header connector. Looking at the pics it seems the dial just selects 3 levels of resistance to reduce voltage, probably 12v (brightest), 7v, and 5v (dimmest). If that's the case then you could simply discard the PCI card and wire it directly to molex, but you'd lose brightness control, and something will need to be hacked to make it work... Again, I am working on assumptions, don't take that as gospel
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom