LG 55 c9 picture settings ?

baz178

baz178

baz178

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Hi,

just bought a LG 55 c9 and was wondering what the best picture settings are for watching movies, sport and tv shows !
If anybody could help that would be great on the settings that need changing !
Thanks
 
baz178 said:
Hi,

just bought a LG 55 c9 and was wondering what the best picture settings are for watching movies, sport and tv shows !
If anybody could help that would be great on the settings that need changing !
Thanks
Click to expand...
Just put it in ISF Dark setting as that's the most accurate out of the box
 
baz178 said:
ISF ? And why his that the best possible picture like ?
Click to expand...
You won't get the best possible picture settings by using someone else's settings, just like you won't get the best possible clothing fit by taking garments off a dummy.

ISF Dark setting might be a better start point for making further adjustments because most of the picture enhancement crap is switched off in that mode. This is a bit like starting out by choosing the correct-sized off-the-peg garments as a start point for having some alterations done the get your final fit. You still need a tape measure and someone who knows what they're doing to make the alterations, but you stand a hell of a better chance of success than beginning with clothes that are a million miles away from your size.

Fine-tuning your off-the-peg settings is best done with a set of test patterns. Some Blu-ray discs have basic patterns in the extras. The AVS site has some download able ones that can be played from a network or USB device. There are also Blu-ray test discs with a comprehensive range of patterns and test for the enthusiast to get the best from their own system. At the pinacle of set-up is the bespoke tailoring option of a professional calibration.
 
lucid said:
You won't get the best possible picture settings by using someone else's settings, just like you won't get the best possible clothing fit by taking garments off a dummy.

ISF Dark setting might be a better start point for making further adjustments because most of the picture enhancement crap is switched off in that mode. This is a bit like starting out by choosing the correct-sized off-the-peg garments as a start point for having some alterations done the get your final fit. You still need a tape measure and someone who knows what they're doing to make the alterations, but you stand a hell of a better chance of success than beginning with clothes that are a million miles away from your size.

Fine-tuning your off-the-peg settings is best done with a set of test patterns. Some Blu-ray discs have basic patterns in the extras. The AVS site has some download able ones that can be played from a network or USB device. There are also Blu-ray test discs with a comprehensive range of patterns and test for the enthusiast to get the best from their own system. At the pinacle of set-up is the bespoke tailoring option of a professional calibration.
Click to expand...


Thanks for that! What do you think off vivid picture mode ?
 
Picture Mode setttigs
Standard & HD settings
Technicolour Expert (User)
Aspect Ratio settings- original
Energy Saving - off
AI picture off
OLED Light - 40
Contrast -57
Brightness - 50
Sharpness -12
Colour 55
Tint - 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast - off
Super resolution - off
Colour gamut - auto
Gamma - 2.2
Peak brightnes -low
Noise reduction - off
Mpeg noise reduction - off
Smooth graduation - off
Black level - low
Real Cinema - on
Motion Eye care -off
Trumotion off
Aspect ratio - Original
Just Scan - on
Colour Tempeture - Warm2
For HDR use similar settings however HDR requires certain other HDR specific settings, ie Dynamic Tone Mapping and others to be specific for this mode.
Don't use vivid. Use Technolour, ISF (dark/light) or cinema
 
baz178 said:
Thanks for that! What do you think off vivid picture mode ?
Click to expand...

Vivid is generally a bad starting point for most TVs. The contrast is whacked up too high, the brightness set too low, sharpness is overcooked and there's often a tonne of picture enhancement modes enabled that do more to screw things up than help. Just avoid.... plain and simple.

Some stuff is fairly safe to say "this on, this off, this part way". It's usually the picture processing modes. I calibrate professionally, and what I do with any new TV model I haven't calibrated before is strip everything back to basics, then get the brightness, contrast dialled in for the room, and then set the sharpness for the source. When setting up, I'm either using an external test pattern generator or the customer's disc player if they have one. The sharpness settings are individual to the sources; so Freeview will look different to Freesat will look different to Sky and Virgin and and and ... you get the picture.

Next is colour tone (colour balance: warm / normal / cool) and I'll measure a 10-point greyscale with a light sensor attached to a PC to see which of those gets closest to the ideal colour tracking. Again, generally it's the Warm setting that's closest. After that, I'll do a basic Colour control adjustment so that the set is operating on a neutral basis. Apart from the 10-point greyscale measurement, all the rest of what I described above can be done by any TV owner who is interested in getting their TV to work better than the factory presets and is happy to spend a small amount of cash on a test disc to help.

I can't stress enough how important it is to get brightness and contrast set correctly for the light conditions in the viewing room. Contrast gives us control of what happens in the highlights of a picture. Set it too high and all the lighter areas and detail thety contain gets merged in to one white formless blob. It's the same effect as an overexposed picture. Go too low and the result is a dull looking image. It's why test patterns are really helpful. You see, unlike picture content, which can very from shot to shot as the director instructs the colourist to juggling whether there's detail in the lighter or darker parts of the image because of the limited dynamic range of a video signal, a test pattern is consistent and accurate. Setting the Contrast correctly means that when there's white detail to be seen, then it will be.

The same goes for Brightness, but this one is even more fundamental.

Brightness gives us control of how much or how little shaddow detail is seen, and whether that detail is obscured in a black swathe of nothingness, or if it's all overblown and grey looking in shadow areas because the brightness is too high. The other thing that folk rarely understand is that brightness affects the colour saturation. Set it too high and all the colours look paler and slightly washed-out. Set it too low and it creates too much colour saturation that then affects the colour balance.

Once again then, a test pattern offers a reference standard that's consistent with the broadcast standards that the film and TV companies work to. It also takes in to account the ambient light in a room. This is why you have an ISF Day and an ISF Night mode in the menus. There isn't one set of numbers that's universally correct for Brightness (or Contrast). It has to be set for your TV, in Your room, your sources, and for the lighting levels that you have for daytime and for evening viewing. This is why listening to anyone who tells you what Contrast and Brightness settings to use should ring alarm bells. It's the equivalent of that bloke at the pub who thinks he knows everything telling someone the best gear to drive in for their car. Anyone who drives a manual knows that the gear box has a range of settings to suit the road conditions; and so it is with Brightness and Contrast.

Once the basics are done, I'll then use various test patterns to assess the effect of each picture processing feature. This shows me whether they're helping or harming the picture, and if there's levels to a setting, just where that setting goes from being beneficial to being picture destructive. I'll then finish off with a full colour calibration which is what really supercharges a TV or projector's performance. A broad range of the same types of patterns are available on consumer test discs.

Something else to consider is batch variation; even with the same model of TV or projector, set up in the same room and with the same sources, you'll still get some variation in the final numbers. I know this first had because I calibrated lots of the same model projector for a dealer. It's down to component tolerances. Even with as little as a +/-5% difference in capacitors and resistors, you'll get enough difference that no two models of the same set will give exactly the same settings numbers.

If you want your new telly to perform, download the basic AVS709 testpatterns from the AVS forum site, or buy a copy of Spears & Munsil or DVE HD Basics or Disney Wow. The discs will come with the colour filter gel so you can do the colour and tint adjustments. The downloaded patterns won't, so you'll have to forego that.
 
lucid said:
Vivid is generally a bad starting point for most TVs. The contrast is whacked up too high, the brightness set too low, sharpness is overcooked and there's often a tonne of picture enhancement modes enabled that do more to screw things up than help. Just avoid.... plain and simple.

Some stuff is fairly safe to say "this on, this off, this part way". It's usually the picture processing modes. I calibrate professionally, and what I do with any new TV model I haven't calibrated before is strip everything back to basics, then get the brightness, contrast dialled in for the room, and then set the sharpness for the source. When setting up, I'm either using an external test pattern generator or the customer's disc player if they have one. The sharpness settings are individual to the sources; so Freeview will look different to Freesat will look different to Sky and Virgin and and and ... you get the picture.

Next is colour tone (colour balance: warm / normal / cool) and I'll measure a 10-point greyscale with a light sensor attached to a PC to see which of those gets closest to the ideal colour tracking. Again, generally it's the Warm setting that's closest. After that, I'll do a basic Colour control adjustment so that the set is operating on a neutral basis. Apart from the 10-point greyscale measurement, all the rest of what I described above can be done by any TV owner who is interested in getting their TV to work better than the factory presets and is happy to spend a small amount of cash on a test disc to help.

I can't stress enough how important it is to get brightness and contrast set correctly for the light conditions in the viewing room. Contrast gives us control of what happens in the highlights of a picture. Set it too high and all the lighter areas and detail thety contain gets merged in to one white formless blob. It's the same effect as an overexposed picture. Go too low and the result is a dull looking image. It's why test patterns are really helpful. You see, unlike picture content, which can very from shot to shot as the director instructs the colourist to juggling whether there's detail in the lighter or darker parts of the image because of the limited dynamic range of a video signal, a test pattern is consistent and accurate. Setting the Contrast correctly means that when there's white detail to be seen, then it will be.

The same goes for Brightness, but this one is even more fundamental.

Brightness gives us control of how much or how little shaddow detail is seen, and whether that detail is obscured in a black swathe of nothingness, or if it's all overblown and grey looking in shadow areas because the brightness is too high. The other thing that folk rarely understand is that brightness affects the colour saturation. Set it too high and all the colours look paler and slightly washed-out. Set it too low and it creates too much colour saturation that then affects the colour balance.

Once again then, a test pattern offers a reference standard that's consistent with the broadcast standards that the film and TV companies work to. It also takes in to account the ambient light in a room. This is why you have an ISF Day and an ISF Night mode in the menus. There isn't one set of numbers that's universally correct for Brightness (or Contrast). It has to be set for your TV, in Your room, your sources, and for the lighting levels that you have for daytime and for evening viewing. This is why listening to anyone who tells you what Contrast and Brightness settings to use should ring alarm bells. It's the equivalent of that bloke at the pub who thinks he knows everything telling someone the best gear to drive in for their car. Anyone who drives a manual knows that the gear box has a range of settings to suit the road conditions; and so it is with Brightness and Contrast.

Once the basics are done, I'll then use various test patterns to assess the effect of each picture processing feature. This shows me whether they're helping or harming the picture, and if there's levels to a setting, just where that setting goes from being beneficial to being picture destructive. I'll then finish off with a full colour calibration which is what really supercharges a TV or projector's performance. A broad range of the same types of patterns are available on consumer test discs.

Something else to consider is batch variation; even with the same model of TV or projector, set up in the same room and with the same sources, you'll still get some variation in the final numbers. I know this first had because I calibrated lots of the same model projector for a dealer. It's down to component tolerances. Even with as little as a +/-5% difference in capacitors and resistors, you'll get enough difference that no two models of the same set will give exactly the same settings numbers.

If you want your new telly to perform, download the basic AVS709 testpatterns from the AVS forum site, or buy a copy of Spears & Munsil or DVE HD Basics or Disney Wow. The discs will come with the colour filter gel so you can do the colour and tint adjustments. The downloaded patterns won't, so you'll have to forego that.
Click to expand...

Do TV's automatically switch from one setup to the other (excluding for HDR), i know mine has an ambient light sensor, although thats for a eco mode. I wasnt sure if the TV is smart enough to switch or if it needs doing manually.
 
baz178 said:
Hi,

just bought a LG 55 c9 and was wondering what the best picture settings are for watching movies, sport and tv shows !
If anybody could help that would be great on the settings that need changing !
Thanks
Click to expand...

You shouldn't be copying anyone else's settings.

TV's should be calibrated according to the room. And the panel. Both are unique in every situation. Therefore copying someone else's settings could make your picture look worse.

For example if I have the TV in my living room and then had it professionally calibrated. I then move the TV into my bedroom it would need to be calibrated again.

If I buy two of the same TV and put them in the same room in the same position and have them both calibrated the settings would be very different on each. This is because panels are made up of thousands of components each with different tolerances. No two tvs leave the factory with the exact same picture.

The best you can do is try and calibrate it yourself. Or pay someone who knows what they are doing to do it properly.

I calibrate all my computer monitors using a display calibrator device for example. I don't just copy settings or profiles off the Internet.
 
baz178 said:
Hi,

just bought a LG 55 c9 and was wondering what the best picture settings are for watching movies, sport and tv shows !
If anybody could help that would be great on the settings that need changing !
Thanks
Click to expand...

If you copy other settings just use it as a base like suggested, nothing wrong with turning all the processing rubbish off though like the settings posted above.

Also you may find some useful info here from other C9 owners https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-oled-c9-owners-and-discussion-thread.2227517/
 
theone8181 said:
Do TV's automatically switch from one setup to the other (excluding for HDR), i know mine has an ambient light sensor, although thats for a eco mode. I wasnt sure if the TV is smart enough to switch or if it needs doing manually.
Click to expand...

You'll find that a lot of TVs now have multiple picture memory banks. By that I mean that if you take HDMI 1 as the input, and then give the TV a signal from say Sky+HD @1080i, then it will treat that differently to Sky+HD at 576i (SD quality) if a new picture memory is set up for it. Many TVs detect input and then resolution and then the refresh rate as a way to tell signals apart.

In the example of the Sky box, above, where the box was set to scale everything to 1080i 50hz then the TV wouldn't know whether Sky is showing an HD or SD channel.
 
hornetstinger said:
The problem is for black level (sharpness) not all movies and TV shows are the same. Sometimes have to increase or decrease my usual setting.
Click to expand...
For a start, Black Level isn't Sharpness; two entirely different things. That's like referring to the veneer of a speaker cabinet as the woofer.

vlbcXu.jpg



Sharpness is this:

eMMgtA.jpg


yCAAuB.jpg
 
Yeah a typo difficult typing on phone and waiting in hospital

I'm aware of black level and sharpness is, one good method of sharpness is to display a word document. It should look exactly like a pc LCD monitor. Although some pc monitors offer sharpness controls which is stupid. Also dead easy to set as very obvious when it's blurring font, and introducing ringing.

As for black level there is differences between movies. Not always and may only be a couple of clicks.
 
hornetstinger said:
Yeah a typo difficult typing on phone and waiting in hospital

I'm aware of black level and sharpness is, one good method of sharpness is to display a word document. It should look exactly like a pc LCD monitor. Although some pc monitors offer sharpness controls which is stupid. Also dead easy to set as very obvious when it's blurring font, and introducing ringing.

As for black level there is differences between movies. Not always and may only be a couple of clicks.
Click to expand...
While I've only got an LCD, (I will be getting a c9 oled for my mancave), I find it daft that on an LCD, you set sharpness to 0 to turn it off (that's what I do anyway, can't stand the artifacting), whereas I believe oleds are more like a PC monitor and need to be roughly in the middle of the range. I wonder if it's some wierd old throwback to CRTs or something?
 
theone8181 said:
While I've only got an LCD, (I will be getting a c9 oled for my mancave), I find it daft that on an LCD, you set sharpness to 0 to turn it off (that's what I do anyway, can't stand the artifacting), whereas I believe oleds are more like a PC monitor and need to be roughly in the middle of the range. I wonder if it's some wierd old throwback to CRTs or something?
Click to expand...

Double check setting as on my old LCD 0 slightly blurred the pixels and fonts
 
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