Lighting circuit - is my understanding correct?

You wouldn't have the last switch linked back up to the light fitting. The 3 core between the switches is all that's required. You take the brown from the light, tie it up to the brown of the 3 core (usually in connector, i do it to L1 and saves on the connection, but thats another ball game) which then goes on to the common of the right hand side switch. The black and the grey go in to L1/L2 on both switches and the blue (Sheathed brown) goes back up to the light switch.

Generally take the brown as common/perm live and your blacks and greys are usually your pass wires. Just depends on who your working with.

What you've shown is the loop-in method at lights, it can also be done at switches(Which is better). There is also the junction box method, which is everything back to a central point.
 
lewism said:
You wouldn't have the last switch linked back up to the light fitting. The 3 core between the switches is all that's required. You take the brown from the light, tie it up to the brown of the 3 core (usually in connector, i do it to L1 and saves on the connection, but thats another ball game) which then goes on to the common of the right hand side switch. The black and the grey go in to L1/L2 on both switches and the blue (Sheathed brown) goes back up to the light switch.

Generally take the brown as common/perm live and your blacks and greys are usually your pass wires. Just depends on who your working with.

What you've shown is the loop-in method at lights, it can also be done at switches(Which is better). There is also the junction box method, which is everything back to a central point.
Click to expand...

So what you're saying is basically this (?):

https://i.imgur.com/O0GKhC4.jpg

I don't need to worry about the connections (second fix) as I am just running the cables for the first fix.

How is loop-in at the switch better?
 
ivandrago said:
So what you're saying is basically this (?):

https://i.imgur.com/O0GKhC4.jpg

I don't need to worry about the connections (second fix) as I am just running the cables for the first fix.

How is loop-in at the switch better?
Click to expand...

Yep. basically whats in ozaudios link (that link also shows using the permanent feed/return in to L1/L2 as opposed to joining them in connector behind the switch. That's how I do them.

Loop in at the switch is better because it provides a neutral for additional wiring/extending cables/ adding light fittings in etc. Generally easier to get to as well (Usually on an external wall etc) rather than at a light fitting. There is no right or wrong way with the 3 methods. They all do the same job. Ceiling roses do get quite busy and you can always use a deeper pattress at the light switch, not usually the other way around.

Junction Box - Uses more cable, very rarely can you access the joint box once install is done. Usually done by lesser sparks that can't figure out simple switching and need to play connect the dots.
Loop in at light - Uses less cable, all connections are accessible. for the intermediate spark that had a good journeyman.
Loop in at switch - for the tight lazy git that doesn't want to go up a set of steps to fault find.

I also only use 1mm on lighting these days anyway. Better to work with. Haven't seen a domestic lighting circuit draw more than 6amps in a very, very long time.

Radial circuits are also miles better than rings.
 
Last edited:
Does this work okay?

https://i.imgur.com/UnGGxK7.jpg

1. Consumer Unit to first light.
2. to second light (from first light). This light is controlled by a 2 gang, 1 way switch - 2 lights controlled by a gang each - 2 lights in a single switch in a single room.
3. to third light (from second light). This light is controlled by a 2 gang, 1 way switch - 2 lights controlled by a gang each - 2 lights in a single switch in a single room.
4. to the fourtth light (bathroom light) - (from the third light).
5. The bathroom light switch is connected to a fan isolator via 1.0mm 3 core and earth and the fan isolator is connected to the bathroom extractor fan via 1.0mm 3 core and earth.

https://i.imgur.com/UnGGxK7.jpg
 
Last edited:
ivandrago said:
Does this work okay?

https://i.imgur.com/UnGGxK7.jpg

1. Consumer Unit to first light.
2. to second light (from first light). This light is controlled by a 2 gang, 1 way switch - 2 lights controlled by a gang each - 2 lights in a single switch in a single room.
3. to third light (from second light). This light is controlled by a 2 gang, 1 way switch - 2 lights controlled by a gang each - 2 lights in a single switch in a single room.
4. to the fourtth light (bathroom light) - (from the third light).
5. The bathroom light switch is connected to a fan isolator via 1.0mm 3 core and earth and the fan isolator is connected to the bathroom extractor fan via 1.0mm 3 core and earth.

https://i.imgur.com/UnGGxK7.jpg
Click to expand...
Where are the third light, fan, etc getting a neutral from?
 
ivandrago said:
In short, I want the bathroom light to be powered from the light before it. The bathroom light should also run the extractor.

I just want to run the wires for the first fix.

EDIT: I think I 've worked it out:

https://i.imgur.com/gSYJbSu.jpg
Click to expand...

Yep ok. Blue sleeving for the neutral.

From the ceiling rose
incoming Live to bathroom switch and a live to the fan isolator.
Switched live back from the switch (brown sleeve) to the light and to the switched live (brown sleeve) to the fan isolator.
incoming neutral connected to light and also to fan isolator (blue sleeve).
Earth connected all together.
Repeat connections through fan isolator to fan, core brown as live, core grey as switched live (sleeved brown) black as neutral (sleeved blue).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom