Liquid metal with a 'floating' Ihs?

mattyfez

mattyfez

mattyfez

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Joined
12 Apr 2007
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Hi all.
As above ... I'm delidded but using kryonought above and below the Ihs.

Would it be safe to use a liquid metal on the die without using any sealent and just the socket clamp keeping things in place?

My temps are a bit hot for my liking, current weather obviously a factor.. I could get a better air cooler than my hyper 212 evo but would rather not go to the hassle and expense.

Thanks
 
What's your ambient case temperature during light use (browsing etc)? How far above ambient? What does it go upto under load?
 
Thanks for the replies, idle temps are a little on the high side , if memory serves me correctly I'll say 45c.
Recently gaming has pushed max cpu above 90c and I'm sure it's been responsible for some in game crashes so may have hit 100c.
The CPU is overclocked to 4.8ghz (drops to 800mhz on idle) At a fixed vcore of 1.375v.

Cheers
 
I could but I seem to remember when dialing in the overclock, it would become unstable in cinebech and/or Asus realbench so I think I'd have to lower the CPU speed if i want to lower the voltage..
 
It may be I did a bad paste job on it originally, but it was 'good enough' not to bother doing it again ... Until the recent rise in ambient temperatures. That said I've also read that using regular paste direct on the die (as I did) is not as ideal as liquid metal...
 
What's the temp of the air in the case, rather than idle on the cpu? A couple of decent intake fans lowered my internal temps by 10c and knocked about 4c off my gpu and cpu after long sessions.
 
Thanks
I'm running the case with the side panel off currently, it's a full size lian li tower so no space issues and the gpu seems to be operating within normal temperature parameters.

I'm just guessing but the internal case temps will be similar to the ambient air temps

Thanks again.
 
Try sticking a desk fan on the side, just to actually get some of the fresh air moving into the case, see if that has any effect, since good airflow in a case would be recycling the air more effectively than just an open panel (I'd presume).

What wattage would the chip be pushed upto with that overclock? What's the 212 rated for? Could be you're hitting the top limit of what it can do (once the ambient temps are a little too high). Looking at some comparison sites, with increasing wattages, a cooler will rate ahead of competitors, then hit a limit and suddenly simply not be able to keep the temps down, whilst the others are able to keep going.
 
Cheers
Cpu voltage is very stable in hw monitor at 1.375. Some very minor voltage fluctuations but nothing really..
It's always been a tad warm but the recent warm weather has pushed it to the edge it seems!
I don't know what the tdp of my cooler is, but it's a fairly standard size 120mm tower cooler..
 
I suppose I could buy a better cpu cooler, in that case I'd put new paste on and use liquid metal under the IHS ... I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth just doing that before buying a newer bigger heat sink.

I don't really fancy rebuilding the pc of i can get away with a thermal paste change :D
 
Well using this: OC Wattage = TDP * ( OC MHz / Stock MHz) * ( OC Vcore / Stock Vcore )^2

Which apparently tells you wattage for an overclock, and assuming stock vcore of 1.25 (seems to be the high end, which would give lower wattage total, so this is low end estimate), we get about 135W, using 1.2 stock vcore, we get 147W.

What I've managed to find is that the Evo is apparently rated by CM as 150W, which is going to be absolute best case scenario, and not realistic. So I'd guess you're right on the edge of the Evo's capabilities, and a few degrees extra ambient temps is going to push you over the edge. Even if the chip is getting slightly less efficient, it could be pushing you over.

I'd guess you may be needing a new cooler, rather than anything else.
 
Hmm thanks .. food for thought indeed.
If I go to the effort of putting a new cooler on I'd put liquid metal on the chip die anyway because why not.

I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth doing the liquid metal under the IHS with the current cooler ..

I'm well aware the hyper 212 evo is a fairly bog standard cooler though.. And it's fan is not the quietest ...

What's a better air cooler without spending silly money? Preferably one that comes with a better fan? Rather keep it to 120mm fans..

I had a feeling the hyper was on the edge of its cooling capacity, thanks.
 
I've no idea if liquid metal would help.

I'd guess no, since getting the heat out faster from the chip isn't the issue, it's getting it out of the heatsink.

What do you call silly money? I've done a bit of research recently but not much and mostly big coolers so not 120s. I am learning that most reviews are poorly set out and performed. It seems that around the £40-60 mark is where you can get some very high quality air coolers.
 
This is my current read out if it helps, clean install of windows doing nothing particularly stressful, downloading and installing an app

Thanks

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I'm not really someone to know :D, just built my first system in decades and got into airflow and air cooling a bit :D. I would say your graphics card seems a bit toasty for not doing much! Have you tried putting a fan blowing air into the open side yet?
 
All the temps look fine to be honest.

If you're unhappy then I'd look at how much airflow is coming in from outside the case and maybe re-apply the TIM
 
Airflow in the case is definitely a potential issue, but with the side off (and a fan to get some more movement if needed) it shouldn't be too much of an issue, and if he's bumping up against the limits of the cooler anyway, it's very possible it simply can't shift the heat any faster. If you upgrade the cooler, and came across the same issues, then replace the TIM (though you would anyway), I just don't think it'll necessarily help that much. I think dropping the voltages a little should drop the total power draw, which will obviously then help the output heat.

Maybe try running some tests with a smaller overclock? If the temps are still going very high, then perhaps it is the TIM not moving the heat to the cooler fast enough. If they come under control, then it suggests you're hitting the cooler limit.
 
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