Loft boards for new build

Delvis

Delvis

Delvis

Caporegime
Joined
7 Nov 2004
Posts
30,197
Location
Buckinghamshire
Hi all, as per title I want to put some loft boards into to get a bit of storage up there, I'm likely to do it in pieces rather than goto town on it.

I've heard it's best to use leg extenders to go above the insulation now so the board in fact sit a way above the joists, does anyone have any recommendations planning or what's best to use? :)
 
Recently boarded my loft (built around 8 years ago) using Loft Legs XL - https://www.loftleg.com/loftlegxl

Really easy to use and install and you can do it in stages. They screw onto the joists then you screw the boards to the top of the legs. They even have guides on site for planning and working out how many you need.
 
I wouldn't bother with them. Just buy some 2x2 par timber and cut that into 4 inch prices. Fix these down on the joists where the joints are and in the middle of the board and you are good to go with your boarding. Cheaper and a better fixing in my opinion
 
azazl187 said:
I wouldn't bother with them. Just buy some 2x2 par timber and cut that into 4 inch prices. Fix these down on the joists where the joints are and in the middle of the board and you are good to go with your boarding. Cheaper and a better fixing in my opinion
Click to expand...

Depends i guess.

NHBC Are extremely fickle with their warranty.
 
I have used several boxes of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOFTY-PACK-Loft-Attic-Stilts/dp/B07CMHD94Y (smaller boxes are available if you aren't boarding too large an area)

Similar to the ones linked above but have little bits that clip around the joists making them easier to install. These can be cut off relatively easily if you are installing them above an obstruction (where the joists join for example). I have used the loft legs XL linked above aswell and didn't find them as good because of the lack of these clips. I also don't think the platform on the top of them is quite as big so makes it slightly trickier to install the boards in terms of placement.

Boards wise I just used the standard lofts boards from wickes which have been fine, I can't imagine theres too much difference in those from different places tbh.
 
I'm currently using the diall ones from Screwfix to do my loft. Been quite impressed with them. I needed to get a fair bit of height in my loft for new insulation and these ones fit the bill which is why I avoided timber.
 
Delvis said:
Depends i guess.

NHBC Are extremely fickle with their warranty.
Click to expand...
True. Just make sure you dont break anything. If it's screwed down you can just whip it up if you want to. If they are that fickle they would want it installed and signed off by a professional. I'm a carpenter and do loft boards quite a lot and have never had an issue
 
Depends how deep your loft insulation is. If you is just 4"-6" then buy some treated timber that gets you above the insulation and run it right angles to the existing joists. Use long no.8 woodscrews to attach them. Do not nail. Lay boards at right angles. You can use chipboard but I prefer just getting some used timber floorboards.. if you can get them cheaply. 18mm is fine. They are lighter than chipboard. Again, screw them down. Do not nail. I keep saying that because your ceiling below is just nailed up. If you are using nails the hammering can loosen your ceiling, leading to cracks over the years.
You only need a very small gap under the boards. You don't need tons. But if the insulation is thicker than about 6" you do need to think of the alternatives.
 
Thanks again all, will look at the options

pp111 said:
Depends how deep your loft insulation is. If you is just 4"-6" then buy some treated timber that gets you above the insulation and run it right angles to the existing joists. Use long no.8 woodscrews to attach them. Do not nail. Lay boards at right angles. You can use chipboard but I prefer just getting some used timber floorboards.. if you can get them cheaply. 18mm is fine. They are lighter than chipboard. Again, screw them down. Do not nail. I keep saying that because your ceiling below is just nailed up. If you are using nails the hammering can loosen your ceiling, leading to cracks over the years.
You only need a very small gap under the boards. You don't need tons. But if the insulation is thicker than about 6" you do need to think of the alternatives.
Click to expand...

So the boards run with the joists? Surely I'd need some thick wood to run right angled to the joists? :P
 
Delvis said:
Thanks again all, will look at the options



So the boards run with the joists? Surely I'd need some thick wood to run right angled to the joists? :p
Click to expand...

Nope run right angles. The idea is to strengthen the overall roof structure, which you do by running them right angles to the original joists. You are talking about 4"x2" ( actual dimensions usually a little less ) timber which is not expensive. You can put them 2 feet apart.
 
pp111 said:
Nope run right angles. The idea is to strengthen the overall roof structure, which you do by running them right angles to the original joists. You are talking about 4"x2" ( actual dimensions usually a little less ) timber which is not expensive. You can put them 2 feet apart.
Click to expand...

Just you said run the timber at right angles to the joists, then put the boards at right angles. :p
 
Last edited:
Delvis said:
Just you said run the timber at right angles to the joists, then put the boards at right angles. :p
Click to expand...

Er, yes, I was not clear!! Run the timbers at right angles to the joists then the boards at right angles to the timbers! So the the boards are in the same direction as the joist.

I mean you can run the timbers in the same direction as the joists if the insulation is in the way of you running them at right angles. If it's really thick it might be.
 
pp111 said:
Er, yes, I was not clear!! Run the timbers at right angles to the joists then the boards at right angles to the timbers! So the the boards are in the same direction as the joist.

I mean you can run the timbers in the same direction as the joists if the insulation is in the way of you running them at right angles. If it's really thick it might be.
Click to expand...

Ah ok, I was understanding correctly ,probably didn't type my reply properly haha :D

Having just looked, its basically two sheets of insulation on top of each other, lots of its and a pain in the butt to move to go right angles to the joists (Which I understand why)

So probably best for now I try the stilt product (Unless I want to pull the insulation back completely) and put the boards at right angles, depending on what I use...tbh its going to be a tiny amount for now, which I'll look at increasing gradually.

And yes, definitely was intending on screwing it all down :)
 
bloodiedathame said:
I'm currently using the diall ones from Screwfix to do my loft. Been quite impressed with them. I needed to get a fair bit of height in my loft for new insulation and these ones fit the bill which is why I avoided timber.
Click to expand...

These seem okay but at 210mm don't go much above the insulation in places, and I'm not sure if the 300mm ones elsewhere will be too much of a gap!
 
I did mine with loftlegs last year, although the standard ones not the XL - iirc they're 200mm in height + the 100mm joist height gives you the 300 you're aiming for.

I bought mine from wicks as they had a better price for them than B&Q/Screwfix.

One big tip i learned pretty quickly, pre-screw all the legs you're going to use. It's a massive faff being up in the loft, trying to hold the insulation up, whilst balancing on a joist, and trying to hold a loft leg in place at the same time as lining a screw up.

I think i gave up after my first leg, and came back down and spent the next hour drilling all the screws into the legs so it was a breeze installing them after that.
 
Semple said:
I did mine with loftlegs last year, although the standard ones not the XL - iirc they're 200mm in height + the 100mm joist height gives you the 300 you're aiming for.

I bought mine from wicks as they had a better price for them than B&Q/Screwfix.

One big tip i learned pretty quickly, pre-screw all the legs you're going to use. It's a massive faff being up in the loft, trying to hold the insulation up, whilst balancing on a joist, and trying to hold a loft leg in place at the same time as lining a screw up.

I think i gave up after my first leg, and came back down and spent the next hour drilling all the screws into the legs so it was a breeze installing them after that.
Click to expand...

:D

Cheers for the tips. The height I'm basing it on is the height FROM the joists, even then the insulation would be touching the 200mm legs, but we'll see.

I have options either way! Currently spending the evening hanging up some Eket cabinets.
 
You might want to check with your house builder what your ceiling is designed to carry, the standard storage load is only 250N/m2. These systems with a layer of sheeting can easily be eating into a significant amount of that before you put anything up there.
 
Just looked into making my own as I don't have enough.

Creating a basic t shape to attach to the joist with the wider wood on the base; 3m of 45*95 timber + 3m of 22*150 costs £18 from wickes and would make 15 legs.

12 plastic ones from Screwfix, when bought bulk comes to £16.19.

When you factor in making the things it's a no brainer for me to get the plastic ones.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom