Logitech Harmony One Remote & Projector
- Thread starter chris_r
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Soldato
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Assuming it's a remote operated screen then cant you learn the commands from the original remote using the harmony software?
Soldato
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what screen is it?
Soldato
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Well, without a model number or something i cant check but if the harmony one isn't picking up any signal when trying to learn, either it's broken or (more likely) the screen's remote isnt infrared. I doubt it's bluetooth either so it's probably RF. One of those IR to RF converters would work, either that or buy a new harmony that supports RF. I would double check first though, so google the part number and see what you can find. @lucid might be able to advise further 
I bought my remote today.
The screen may be RF yes. Definitely not bluetooth.
Just found the manual (no model etc ) tho it says RF distance for remote is: <20m and for IR <10
So possibly both, that said, cannot get it working
The screen may be RF yes. Definitely not bluetooth.
Just found the manual (no model etc ) tho it says RF distance for remote is: <20m and for IR <10
So possibly both, that said, cannot get it working
Soldato
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At least tell me the manufacturers name lol
Associate
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I just bought an electric sapphire screen. I was able to pair it to harmony by adding it as a device, and searching for "sapphire". It brought up a couple of different products and I selected mine. Worked straight away using the up/down/select buttons.
I would if i could.
If the screen has an IR command for up and down, and so long as it's within the frequency range that the Harmony works at, then there's no reason why it can't be added.
Learning clean codes can be a bit hit and miss though. I'm no fan of Harmony - too restrictive for my tastes and abilities - so I'm not sure if you'll see the Hex string during the learning procedure; and even if you do you might not recognise when there's a complete code learned or whether it has learned part of the following repeat as well. If you've cast your lot in with Harmony then that's their problem to resolve.
For remotes that use wireless then you're stuffed. Wireless works through walls and doesn't require line of sight. Wireless could be something as simple as the garage door opener (same as the screen up/down/stop) or as sophisticated as Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. It's all part of the wireless radio sprectrum. If you're trying to learn wireless in to a Harmony IR receiver then that's the equivalent of sending Morse code radio signals to a deaf person.
Look at your screen. If there's an IR window on the casing or the controller wall box (if it has one) then you can probably learn it in to a Harmony. If the screen's key fob looks more like your car door opener (no IR window) then you're probably dealing with wireless.
Learning clean codes can be a bit hit and miss though. I'm no fan of Harmony - too restrictive for my tastes and abilities - so I'm not sure if you'll see the Hex string during the learning procedure; and even if you do you might not recognise when there's a complete code learned or whether it has learned part of the following repeat as well. If you've cast your lot in with Harmony then that's their problem to resolve.
For remotes that use wireless then you're stuffed. Wireless works through walls and doesn't require line of sight. Wireless could be something as simple as the garage door opener (same as the screen up/down/stop) or as sophisticated as Bluetooth and Wi-Fi. It's all part of the wireless radio sprectrum. If you're trying to learn wireless in to a Harmony IR receiver then that's the equivalent of sending Morse code radio signals to a deaf person.
Look at your screen. If there's an IR window on the casing or the controller wall box (if it has one) then you can probably learn it in to a Harmony. If the screen's key fob looks more like your car door opener (no IR window) then you're probably dealing with wireless.
Caporegime
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Can't you link the projects 12v outputs to activate the screen once the projector is switched on?
*Assuming both devices have the capability.
*Assuming both devices have the capability.
Yep, good shout if the projector and screen both have relay control.
AFAIK, Harmony remotes don't talk to directly 3rd party RF/Wireless/Radio devices. They use wireless to communicate to the Harmony Hub which might be located in a cupboard or somewhere out of sight, and that receives the Harmony remote's wireless commands and converts them back in to IR. This info is according to the Harmony blog, so from the horse's mouth, so to speak.
One possible solution is a Velleman IR relay that is then physically wired to the wireless key fob up and down buttons. This requires ripping the wireless fob apart, soldering some wires to the correct pins inside, then building the relay from its kit parts, buying a 24vDC power supply, hooking it all up, then teaching the relay a code for UP and a code for DOWN. You'll then need to tidy everything up so it doesn't look like a dogs breakfast.
The Velleman kits are under £10 + shipping. a 24vDC low current PSU will be about £10 as well at a guess. A little ABS plastic enclosure box somewhere around £5. Then some time.
One possible solution is a Velleman IR relay that is then physically wired to the wireless key fob up and down buttons. This requires ripping the wireless fob apart, soldering some wires to the correct pins inside, then building the relay from its kit parts, buying a 24vDC power supply, hooking it all up, then teaching the relay a code for UP and a code for DOWN. You'll then need to tidy everything up so it doesn't look like a dogs breakfast.
The Velleman kits are under £10 + shipping. a 24vDC low current PSU will be about £10 as well at a guess. A little ABS plastic enclosure box somewhere around £5. Then some time.
What he's saying is that some projectors have a little 3.5mm headphone jack socket or similar on the back near the video inputs to operate a screen relay control. We call this a screen trigger socket. You switch the projector on, then a few seconds later a voltage switches on at the socket, and that's carries by a length of bell wire (a thinner version of two-core speaker wire) to another jack plug or direct wired to a relay circuit.
A relay circuit is a powered switch. The screen trigger signal operates the relay. The relay then switches a larger voltage which operates the screen motor roller.
For all this to work the first requirement is that the projector has a Screen Trigger output. The second requirement is that the screen itself has some way to accept the screen trigger signal. The third requirement is that someone installs and wires up the appropriate cable and connections to ling the two. Hey Presto! Bingo Bongo.... you switch the projector on and the screen comes down, you switch the projector off and the screen goes up. Ergo, the screen is triggered by the projector; hence we have Screen Trigger.
Suspended
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Haven't read the replies, but it could be "alternate" IR code ie
press once it sends 010101010101
press again it sends 101011111111
So you will never learn a IR code.
I have never tried this but it just occured to me Unless of course you learn two commands, and add these to macros
Macro screen up
IR command up 111111111 code #1
IR command up 000011111 code #2
macro screen down
IR command down 1100011 code # 1
IR command down 1100111 code #'2
I'm not sure this will work, but give it a try. I use a learning remote control (URC MX-850) The only way I could get "alternate" IR commands was to import them from a pronto .ccf file. I can't recall what device had this alternate IR codes, but I did have one a while ago.
press once it sends 010101010101
press again it sends 101011111111
So you will never learn a IR code.
I have never tried this but it just occured to me Unless of course you learn two commands, and add these to macros
Macro screen up
IR command up 111111111 code #1
IR command up 000011111 code #2
macro screen down
IR command down 1100011 code # 1
IR command down 1100111 code #'2
I'm not sure this will work, but give it a try. I use a learning remote control (URC MX-850) The only way I could get "alternate" IR commands was to import them from a pronto .ccf file. I can't recall what device had this alternate IR codes, but I did have one a while ago.