Logitech Z-5500's dead

mysticsniper

mysticsniper

mysticsniper

Soldato
Joined
1 May 2003
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11,196
I had a power cut today, and when I turned on my system but seen there was no power to the console. I have checked both the fuses in the plug & the subwoofer all look fine. :(


Are they knackered :confused:
 
Oh ok, take it other stuff of the surge are still working? and if nobody else has any ideas, on most good surge protectors dont they protect your system for a certain amound of ££
 
Yes, everything else works fine, computer, monitor, my headphones work from the Creative External box, so I do get sound.

Just spoke to Logitech who said I should first change all the fuses, and then come back to them about an RMA :)
 
Fireskull said:
Hehe kool well at least they said RMA lol, logitech customer support rock! :p
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Changed the fuse all working fine. I had the chap test the fuse, he confirmed it was dead. It is a ceramic fuse so unless to test it, you don't know if it has blown or not. :rolleyes:

Cheers for your help :)
 
fuses seem to be a popular thing but i recall glass fuses sorts it out!?

They are awesome speaker though bass is awesome :-D

:-D

rma is excellent from logitech as well!

Matt/
 
yeah i made a thread the other day with the same problem.
i managed to blow 5 ceramic fuses today :rolleyes:

a glass timed delay fuse sorted it all out
icon14.gif
 
sunlitsix said:
yeah i made a thread the other day with the same problem.
i managed to blow 5 ceramic fuses today :rolleyes:

a glass timed delay fuse sorted it all out
icon14.gif
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lol, about the ceramic ones.

I have a glass fuse in there at the moment, it cost me 20p. I was ready to order City Link to send them back as well, could have been a very costly exercise, thanks goodness for support ;)
 
What are the markings on the supplied ceramic ones? I'm starting to think they have used quick-blow fuses, which are innapropriate. Any appliance with a large transformer (especially toroidal) will need to use a slow-blow type fuse to prevent inrush surges from consistently blowing the fuse.

You can get slow-blow ceramic ones (called antisurge at my supplier), so the construction doesn't really indicate anything. Time-lag is probably overkill. I'm not certain where they are normally used, I imagine mabye as secondary fuses in amplifiers so they don't blow charging the supply caps up every time? Slow-blow is the type you want, either glass or ceramic.
 
Dr.EM said:
What are the markings on the supplied ceramic ones? I'm starting to think they have used quick-blow fuses, which are innapropriate. Any appliance with a large transformer (especially toroidal) will need to use a slow-blow type fuse to prevent inrush surges from consistently blowing the fuse.

You can get slow-blow ceramic ones (called antisurge at my supplier), so the construction doesn't really indicate anything. Time-lag is probably overkill. I'm not certain where they are normally used, I imagine mabye as secondary fuses in amplifiers so they don't blow charging the supply caps up every time? Slow-blow is the type you want, either glass or ceramic.
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The markings were on the metal ends, they read like "T2AL250V" I have no idea what that means, but as long as they are working that's all that counts ;)

I have my sib plugged into a Surge protector, so am quite surprised they blew in the first place :confused:
 
The T at the start indicates slow-blow. If it were F it would be a fast fuse. So that was printed on the one you removed? If thats the case, I really can't think why they keep blowing in this speaker set :confused: . It's clearly a design fault of some sort, fuses should only blow if they are of the wrong rating or if the equiptment develops a fault.
 
Dr.EM said:
The T at the start indicates slow-blow. If it were F it would be a fast fuse. So that was printed on the one you removed? If thats the case, I really can't think why they keep blowing in this speaker set :confused: . It's clearly a design fault of some sort, fuses should only blow if they are of the wrong rating or if the equiptment develops a fault.
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This is the first time a fuse has blown on my sub, so I am ok about that. The model of the fuse is the one I just put in the Sub, I binned the old one, so am not sure what that fuse id was. It was deffo different, as this new one is a clear glass type and the old one was ceramic :)
 
Ah right, I was after the rating on the old one. Your replacement should last forever unless a real fault develops, it is the type that should have been installed from the start (slow-blow). The old ceramic may have been the same though, the same ratings can come in either case. I'm not sure what the advantages are of each, glass obviously has the advantage you can see if its blown without a tester, ceramic appears to be marginally cheaper :)
 
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