Loop check + Q's

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Wanting to go onto a custom loop after having a H100 since August.

Anyway, I'm tempted to do a full loop however I currently thinking it would be better to get just a CPU loop done first even though it means draining and refilling after.

YOUR BASKET
1 x XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir/Pump Combo £122.99
1 x XSPC RX360 120mm Radiator - Black £89.99
1 x EK-Supremacy - CPU Waterblock - Copper Acetal £51.98
1 x BitFenix Recon Internet-Connected Fan Controller (Black) £29.99
2 x Mayhems Pastel - Red Coolant 1L £14.99 (£29.98)
3 x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850 RPM - 3 Pin £14.98 (£44.94)
2 x EK-CSQ Adapter 45° G1/4 Black £7.99 (£15.98)
1 x XSPC HighFlex Hose 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD, 19/12.7mm, 2m, Clear £4.80
6 x EK PSC Compression Fitting 13mm 3/8" - G1/4 - Black £3.89 (£23.34)
Total : £425.96 (includes shipping : £10.00).



For GPU's:
I've checked on ek cooling configurator which says that my card is that of reference 670 design "Video card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 Superclocked+ w/Backplate 4GB GDDR5 (04G-P4-2673) ( What is Nvidia Reference PCB Design? ) ".

XSPC RX240 120mm Radiator - Black
EK Water Blocks EK 670 Full Cover Waterblock nickel or coper. (x2)
Couple of corresponding backplates
And an ek 2 card bridge.


Right a few odd questions:


Copper or nickel. Since I've read quite a bit about how nickel has previously had a flaking issue and copper looks dodgy over time?

Controversial, but whats the most popular size tubing?

Is there anything else I should think about/get?

Finally, unsure on whether to put in a drain line similar to whyscotty's in his switch 810 build.

Thanks.
 
Dont you get free delivery now?

GPU Wise yes it uses the reference design meaning the board is as per nvidias design specs however i think that uses the 680 board not the 670 be careful which blocks you go for

Based on you going alcetal tops i dont believe theres any need for nickel blocks the olny real reason is to hide the copper colour that tarnishes, the tarnish can be cleared in a few min though with the likes of brasso.

Tubing depends on your needs. 7/16ths of half inch stuff, im going with 1/2 inch barbs and using 7/16th tubing tbh if do you believe 1/8th of an inch is really going to make much difference? Do for what work and what suits your budget if you can save a few quid sticking with 7/16th then stick with that
 
Dont you get free delivery now?

GPU Wise yes it uses the reference design meaning the board is as per nvidias design specs however i think that uses the 680 board not the 670 be careful which blocks you go for

Based on you going alcetal tops i dont believe theres any need for nickel blocks the olny real reason is to hide the copper colour that tarnishes, the tarnish can be cleared in a few min though with the likes of brasso.

Tubing depends on your needs. 7/16ths of half inch stuff, im going with 1/2 inch barbs and using 7/16th tubing tbh if do you believe 1/8th of an inch is really going to make much difference? Do for what work and what suits your budget if you can save a few quid sticking with 7/16th then stick with that
Firstly thanks for the reply, its much appreciated.

Yes, I have noticed I get free delivery, but I wasn't logged in.

GPU wise, I've just looked closely at my cards and the PCB ends at the power connectors so its a short 670 PCB. And since coolingconfigurator said its a reference then I should be alright with the EK Water Blocks EK-FC670 GTX - Acetal CSQ blocks?

I might aswell just go with copper with acetal tops since you said that when it tarnishes its quite easy to clean. And since only the edge of it will be visable.

Tubing size was chosen as I had seen a few other loop specs being done at that size however I am unsure as to what would be best.

Finally, I've seen your thread and was wondering if you have applied the blocks to your cards yet and whether you would say to get the whole loop done rather than just a cpu loop for the time being for experience? I've seen some installation guides and it doesn't seem to be that bad as long as you're patient and follow them precisely.
 
Ive not yet as im waiting for them to be in stock, I too am looking at the copper acetal blocks but i need 2 and ocuk dont have 2 available so ive got to wait :( in fact a fair % of the stuff i want to order is out of stock, one of the rads, the barbs the back plates, one of the card blocks, starting to think ocuk are having some stock issues

An easy way to know the difference is just by looking at the back if the cooler is longer than the pcb its a 670 if its the same size its a 680 board. If it is deffo a 670 then yes those blocks are fine

When i do get everything finally together im just going to dive straight in and do the lot
 
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Ive not yet as im waiting for them to be in stock, I too am looking at the copper acetal blocks but i need 2 and ocuk dont have 2 available so ive got to wait :( in fact a fair % of the stuff i want to order is out of stock, one of the rads, the barbs the back plates, one of the card blocks, starting to think ocuk are having some stock issues

An easy way to know the difference is just by looking at the back if the cooler is longer than the pcb its a 670 if its the same size its a 680 board. If it is deffo a 670 then yes those blocks are fine

I don't think its just OCUK, I've been looking around and I can see the blocks available elsewhere but only at one place and showing as low stock, yet the 670 backplates aren't available anywhere. This is the same for quite a few cards blocks and backplates from EK. So I'm undecided whether to get the cpu only loop done, then get the blocks + backplates from OCUK, when they get back in stock.

But I'm still yet undecided on the best tubing and fittings size aswell. Or atleast recommendation as I see that some sizes only have XSPC making the tubing and I can't recall which tubing has clouding issue. Or if I'm just going mad right now.
 
I had to buy the block & backplate for my Asus 670 from the Bay as OCUK haven't had them in stock for a while and stock still shows as 'Due Soon'.

Unless you enjoy tinkering with your PC I would recommend waiting until you have all the parts and doing the loop all at once rather than draining it to add a gpu.

I did a cpu only loop, then drained to add gpu block, refilled then faffed about a week later fitting the backplate with everything connected (the washers for the backplate screws are reeeeally tiny).
 
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