Losing faith in EK

Soldato
Joined
20 Dec 2006
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I had nickel plate failure on a GTX 470 block which EK dutifully replaced.

Now fast forward however number of years and I have an ek supremacy and GTX 1080 block both in transparent plexi/nickel finishes.

I run EK tubing (made another thread on this a while ago, stickwith primochill if you can) and distilled water with 1-2 drops of PT Nuke and that's IT.

So I noticed the other day there is brown looking gunk around the rubber seal on the CPU block. Almost as though the block is corroding there? Or somehow the plate top mounting screws are rusting?

Then I peak under the GTX 1080 block and see sort of that copper oxide -like deposit on the microfins.

So I don't know what's going on, apart from the radiator I'm not mixing metals, not using weird coolants.

Haven't got any photos (can get some, obviously) but I'm disillusioned somewhat by these findings.

Maybe I shouldn't buy transparent parts:D

Anyone seen something similar in their blocks?
 
Soldato
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I'd be interested to see what happens when you strip it down. Whether it cleans off or if it's the components breaking down. Haven't run any EK gear yet but have a CPU and GPU block waiting to go in a build...
 
Soldato
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I tend to do no unecessay maintenance to my loops. From my previous one I learnt I won't use dyes again for it clogs blocks up so went with a pure water build and transparent parts and clear tubing for that ''icy" look.

Seems I'll be forced to do a teardown though
 
Associate
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14 Nov 2013
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67
I have a tiny bit of oxidation (green copper) around the seal of the EK CPU block, but i think it got there from the last strip down and rebuild, there is nothing in the loop itself. Had my loop for 3 years and do an annual clear out with Mayhems Blitz - no crap in it at all. Using Mayhems pastel now
 
Soldato
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uc

uc

uc

uc


so what IS this STUFF?!
 
Associate
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Looks like copper corrosion. I read PT Nuke is no good for EK as it has Copper sulphate in it. It's mainly a biocide to prevent algae so you still need some inhibitor in there as eventually the brass ...copper...and nickle will eventually start to corrode. I use mayhems ...full ek loop and mayhems tube. I would get a mayhems blitz kit to wash it all out. Take blocks apart and scrub with toothbrush
 
Soldato
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I never realised that with PT nuke. its the PHN/neutral one too. I never saw it mentioned anywhere either:( in fact its the first time I ran with it.

I've had a kill coil in the past and pre-mixed dyes.

shame as I wanted to move away from pre-mix everything

Is this reversible? how should I deal with it, am thinking physical strip down rather than putting hope in any flushing agents. need some good clear tubing too at 7/16 ID.
 
Soldato
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18 Oct 2002
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Aranyaprathet, Thailand
Physical strip down, separate the plexi from the copper and clean with toothpaste and toothbrush. Re-assemble.

As for fluids, there's a lot of guff talked about them. I've got rigs which use simple London tap water with no biocide, no silver, no additives whatsoever and there's no algae, no corrosion. I've also had horrific galvanic corrosion (Swiftech I'm looking at you) because of bad anodising that no amount of additive would have prevented. Distill some water - it doesn't take long.
 
Soldato
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Thanks. I'll need new tubing. Any recommendations for clear, no logos, reasonable kink resistance and small bend radius, that won't leech plasticiser/go cloudy that isn't the EK stuff. 7/16 " ID
 
Man of Honour
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12 Jul 2005
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You can't beat Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing for value. It's really good stuff and doesn't leach. I have used most brands in the past including Masterkleer, XSPC (awful stuff) and Primochills overpriced LRT but after having numerous problems switched to Mayhems tubing and no more problems. I would only use their tubing until I went hardline a few months ago. The Mayhems 10/16mm can be used with 7/16" barbs and compression fittings. It's a tight fit but does work well and I never had any problems. Soaking the end of the tubing in boiling water softens it to make things easier, especially for fitting over barbs. If you buy it direct from Mayhems in 3m lengths it's even cheaper but due to postage needing to be paid only really makes sense if ordering other stuff from them at the same time.
 
Associate
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14 Nov 2013
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I went to Mayhems tube from EK - i was a tad worried at first as it seemed slightly flimsier and had a slight blue hue to it - but was easy to install and once in the system the hue seems to not be noticeable. So much cheaper than EK too.
 
Soldato
OP
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3,756
Thanks guys so to confirm re the Mayhems tubing if I soak in boiling water (as I have always done and never used zip ties/compression fittings) it will fit over my barbs?

XSPC I used once leeched badly. Primochill is good but expensive, don't mind paying to play but can't get the clear stuff in the UK EVER for some reason.
 
Associate
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9 Nov 2014
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I've been using EK Blocks/Tubing/Cryofuel for a few years and had no issues at all.

The O-Rings sometimes leave a small black mark but it can be easily cleaned.
 
Soldato
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Update:

The blocks are fine both CPU and GPU. Mayhem's blitz got most of it out I think it was plasticiser.

Only think I have to say, which has been noted by others about the Evo supremacy is that the plastic insert has taken on a cloudy appearance. I'd rather it wasn't this way but it's commonly reported and seen in photos.

Otherwise faith in EK restored and have 13 of their compression fittings coming from ocuk to try with mayhem's tubing.

Will be a departure from barbs which have caused me zero problems in 9 years so am a bit anxious!

Went for 10/16mm tubing and fittings.
 
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