Modding WaterChill Antarctica Block

Drazic

Drazic

Drazic

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Joined
14 Jul 2005
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Portishead, Bristol
A loving memeber of the forum here has sent me one for free, thank you Malcy

I run a 1/2'' system. Can this block be modifiied or has it been done? I've gotten the Astek fitting out now. Brust force with a scredriver, hehehe

I took one of the 3 1/2'' off my D-tek LWW and it looks okay, i think all 3 whould make it look very sexy, along with a led mod too.

I just found that the one off my D-tek are too small, the holes left by the Astek fitting is 16mm ID. What barb will fit that?

Is it easy to tap a thread into the plastic?

Pete
 
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Watechill blocks are 3/8" BSP. The next size up is 1/2" BSP

Sounds like you have fubared the block.

Edit: BTW your cooling can not be 21c idle an 28c load. Your sensors lie.
 
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weescott said:
Watechill blocks are 3/8" BSP. The next size up is 1/2" BSP

Sounds like you have fubared the block.

Edit: BTW your cooling can not be 21c idle an 28c load. Your sensors lie.
Click to expand...

Nope it had some pushin fittings that i pulled out!!! The holes are now 16mm ID!

My cooling is exactly that mate...if ya in Plymouth come see
 
The RBX has a C/W rating of 0.13 and knowing how much heat a P4 puts out there is NO way it can be 7c over ambient.
 
Drazic said:
Who said it was inside??
Click to expand...

Who emplied it? :p

The C/W rating of block decides the maximum heat disapation. i.e. the RBX can not cool better than 13c over ambient with 100w of heat load.
 
It's where most people go wrong. Alex von Kamm (author of Motherboard Monitor) used to have a great article on his website about how to calculate the necessary value for the "Compensation for this sensor" option in the temperatures section. His view was that every motherboard manufacturer intentionally lied and that it was therefore necessary to take the test ratings for your heatsink/waterblock, calculate the wattage of your processor and therefore work out what the load temperature must be.

Sadly, he has removed it along with most of his site :( since he gave up development of a fabulous utility.
 
I found a laser temp sensor is good for finding the real deal...how ever mines walking around my room some what and can't find it,.

Anyway can we go back to tut topics plaease . . . . .
 
why didn't you just jubilee clamp 1/2" tubing over the 3/8" barbs?

I have 1/2" tubing and gpu blocks and 3/8" rad, res and pump barbs. Works fine.

if 1"=25mm then 1/2"=12.5mm and 3/8"=9.375mm so you're talking 2.625mm difference from one side of the barb to the other so just over 1mm per side.

Everyone talks about the difference between 3/8" and 1/2" like its the difference between a cycle path and the M25 ;)

Well unless its pushfit I guess, in which case bin it anyway ;)
 
Erm have they ecver done them with barbs?? Didn't think so

They where push fit but now have been removed and shortly shall be drilled out and tapped and one nice block all freshly lapped for my Yonah 2.16 dual core cpu in my Aopen bord heheheheheh
 
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