More DIY Queries - This Time Plaster...

Monster

Monster

Monster

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I've got 2 (hopefully) simple questions regarding some works to a house I am trying to tidy up currently.

1. In the bathroom I have taken off a huge amount of wall tiles which have also taken with them a good chunk of the plaster. They are on the external wall, party wall and internal walls. I can't afford to lose any space or the bath will not fit down the far end (1700mm). Is there any good patch repair I could use to make the surface good to paint or is it a better idea to knock it all back to the brickwork/blockwork and replaster fully?

2. In the kitchen below the bathroom I have a similiar question. However with the kitchen I've been advised to batten the wall out and board it to allow the new ring main to run more easily. Is this a sensible idea or should I be trying to plaster over the wires again?

See pics below of both. Thanks in advance.





 
I used polycell smoothover when my bathroom was like that, left it 48 hours then tiled over it. That was a good few years ago and it's been fine. Was pretty expensive though so hopefully someone can advise an alternative!
 
Halfmad said:
I used polycell smoothover when my bathroom was like that, left it 48 hours then tiled over it. That was a good few years ago and it's been fine. Was pretty expensive though so hopefully someone can advise an alternative!
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I used this in a kitchen and though it was rubbish. After a year or so it crazed and needed to be redone.
 
You could use joint cement. Get a tub of ready mixed stuff (gyproc) it's about £20. I have just used cement in the past as I had some sand and cement to hand and couldn't be bothered to go shopping.
 
Monster said:
or should I be trying to plaster over the wires again?
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As I understand it, wires need to be in metal trunking if just under plaster.
Hire a wall chaser, make the mess now.
I'd only board out if I was adding insulation underneath because it was a cold external wall.

If the bathroom plaster is sound then patch, if it's like sand held together with snot, then redo.
 
garak112 said:
I used this in a kitchen and though it was rubbish. After a year or so it crazed and needed to be redone.
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What does crazed mean? Fell off? Did you have tiles covering yours also?

bitslice said:
As I understand it, wires need to be in metal trunking if just under plaster.
Hire a wall chaser, make the mess now.
I'd only board out if I was adding insulation underneath because it was a cold external wall.

If the bathroom plaster is sound then patch, if it's like sand held together with snot, then redo.
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I was a little worried about chasing the wall as the brickwork looks a little rough under the plaster. I guess I just cut a small chase and then use a hammer and small chisel to get the depth?

The bathroom plaster is fairly solid but a little sandy, so I'm a little worried about it actually holding stuff.

I guess a replaster is the best solution if money no object (which it is though!)

Cheers.
 
If it was me I have the kitchen/ bathroom totally replastered, you will get a better finish for future coverings, tiles,paint, etc.

I done jobs where I've patch repaired walls, chase walls, only to have surounding plaster fall a few months later.:mad:

There is no need to chase the walls in the kitchen, just remove all plaster, & chase in the metal boxes, (remembering to to use rubber grommets in the knock outs) then cover wiring with plastic capping & pinned to the wall, then replaster.

Once you start adding in cost of battens, wallboard,etc, most likely cheaper to replaster, if your plastering isn't fantastic, get someone else to do it.

Any plaster will craze,crack, if the surface it's applied to, is bone dry, as it will draw the moisture from the plaster even when you've applied a sealer, wet the surface down prior to plastering then when your trowelling up keep spraying the surface from time to time until the water isn't absorbed by the plaser.
 
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Monster said:
What does crazed mean? Fell off? Did you have tiles covering yours also?
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Crazed means it shrinks and cracks like in the linked picture - http://www.flickr.com/photos/caroslines/466299259/

Mine was painted which meant I had cracked paintwork that needed to be redone.

I'm not inexperienced in DIY having spent my summers working for my dads firm, as well as a year after university, and when it had just been finished it looked very impressive. At the time it cracked I searched the internet and found a lot of people had problems with it.
 
You need a plasterer in if you want to paint straight onto the wall for it to look any good. The Brick work can be replastered first with a bonding coat to bring it level with the rest of the wall and get a good bond to the brick, then a skim coat over the whole lot to make it good. It depends how solid the existing plaster is though if you will get away with it. You can plaster over wiring if you have the ring main on an RCD if you dont have an rcd fitted any wiring in the wall under 50mm in depth needs to be covered by a metal conduit.
 
personaly i would knock back the plaster to the wall and get a guy in to re plaster, would cost more, but in the long run, much better.

kitchen and bathroom

i had a similar situation, purchased a doer upper, put an extension on the back, re wire/replaster etc downstairs.

went upstairs and although it was sound, i decided to knock back the walls and plaster and skim it, i just couldnt be bothered with the mess again.

i am so glad i did, the walls are all smooth with a great finish, and the same as downstairs ;)
 
For the bathroom - clean loose plaster, apply finishing plaster, sand-flat, tile over. If you were painting I'd say get a plasterer in, but if you're going to cover it all in thick, gloopy tile glue, just get it as flat as you can and use a straight-edge to get the tiles flat. IMO.
 
Gyproc based materials are one of the worst surfaces to tile on to so I'd ignore the advice suggesting to plaster then tile. Plaster is rated to hold around 25kg per sq m. Decent quality tiles along with adhesive and grout could weigh more than this.

If the walls in the bathroom are to be tiled I'd remove all loose material. Prime with a suitable primer such as BAL APD, several coats. I'd then render with a cement based render.

There are some real quick drying products on the market such as BAL Quickset.

Plasterboard is stronger than a finish coat of plaster (I think it's rated to around 30kg per sq m). If it's a shower area i'd look into cement boards such as aquapanel.
 
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