You had how many PSU failures? I don't have any. Most everyone I know never has PSU failures. I would be concerned if in ten years I had more than one PSU failure.
Most reliable PSU ?
- Thread starter Fuzz
- Start date
Thos little caps are often filters. Part of circuits such as the regulator that only fail due to manufacturing defects or design mistakes. However, that conclusion comes without knowing what that cap was connected to.
A blown cap does not necessary mean the cap was defective or damaged by some external event. Often, another failed component causes capacitors to fail. Many only blame what they can see; not what actually caused that visual indication.
The expression THR1 probably means something significant. For example, what you may have described as a capacitor may instead be a thermal resistor. Or even a thryristor. Did it have two leads or three?
The devil is found in those details. Details such as the actual part,, part numbers, size, number of leads, and what the PC traces connect to. Heavier PC traces are seen in the burned area. Intended to carry amperes of current; not the milliamps that a cap of that size would conduct. Are those traces connected to the failed component?
We may not get a definitive answer here. Might be able to construct a shorter list of suspects. But the point here is about what someone must know long before saying why a power supply fails.
If it was a Thermal resistor it would be bolted to a heatsink ala the big black ones behind it.
the main board explosion has occurred at the base of one of those large black thyristors.
Don't know in what order it all went bang, all I know is..
Came home from work to find no power.
Hit the circuit breaker reset on the main house fuseboard
Heard a bang.
went to desk, unplugged everything.
Hit the circuit breaker again - this time it stayed on.
Started to plug things back into the surge protector one by one to find the issue.
Found the issue when I plugged the PC in, as the area to my right eye ball lit up like a firecraker.
along with another massive bang, smoke and glowing embers drifting towards the carpet. .
the main board explosion has occurred at the base of one of those large black thyristors.
Don't know in what order it all went bang, all I know is..
Came home from work to find no power.
Hit the circuit breaker reset on the main house fuseboard
Heard a bang.
went to desk, unplugged everything.
Hit the circuit breaker again - this time it stayed on.
Started to plug things back into the surge protector one by one to find the issue.
Found the issue when I plugged the PC in, as the area to my right eye ball lit up like a firecraker.
along with another massive bang, smoke and glowing embers drifting towards the carpet. .
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If your purpose was to eliminate a problem, then you care. If the purpose is to share your frustrations with all others, then just say so. I am not a fan of sharing emotions. That's the wife's job.
A Thermal resistor (or Thermistor) looks similar to capacitors. Obviously does not need any big heatsink. One is sometimes installed to intentionally create a brownout (low voltage) during startup. Low voltages can every extend electronics life expectancy. If the thermal resistor (that creates brownouts on power up) fails catastrophically, then a resulting flash and bang might be explained.
We don't have repeated electronic failures due, in part, to solutions that eliminate anomalies. Solutions implemented, in part, because the reason for failure is identified. So that future failures do not occur.
Your failure is characteristic of manufacturing defects. A most common reason for electronics failure.
It's six years old judging by the date on the board. I'm not that fussed it has gone pop.
It's done well IMO.
There was no problem, there is no frustration.
I asked for recommendations on the most reliable PSU.
Got an answer that I then began my research on, which led me to a point of sale outside OcUK as they don't sell those PSU.s
Simple, effective resolution to my problem.
Thread purpose served.
It's done well IMO.
There was no problem, there is no frustration.
I asked for recommendations on the most reliable PSU.
Got an answer that I then began my research on, which led me to a point of sale outside OcUK as they don't sell those PSU.s
Simple, effective resolution to my problem.
Thread purpose served.
Soldato
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I would say that unless scubascorpion has a really dodgy main line connection which the psu isn't regulating properly or is buying psu's that can't output the wattage for his pc he is likely just unlucky. Statistically there has to be someone who gets that unlucky. In fact, there has to be thousands of people who do really. I had pretty much the best 600w psu money could buy slowly kill my pc parts for 5 years because I discovered it was the cause. Lesson is, PSU's fail. My flat mates pc I just built the other day has a psu that doesn't work as well.
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corsair ax series
Soldato
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Can't best Seasonics really 
Waiting on delivery of a X-850 myself.
Waiting on delivery of a X-850 myself.FUUUUUUUUUuuuuuuuu.
Deja vu this evening!
Wiggled the mouse to wake the PC up... no response.
Power was still on as the network lights were on and a few LED's on the M/board were on..
Oh, must have frozen then.
Hold power button 1...2...3...4..
Lights out.
Press the power button....
FIZZZZZZZZ. POP.
90% sure this isn't PSU related but FFS..
CPU fan starts then powers down almost instantly.
No post, no response, no HDD...
Deja vu this evening!
Wiggled the mouse to wake the PC up... no response.
Power was still on as the network lights were on and a few LED's on the M/board were on..
Oh, must have frozen then.
Hold power button 1...2...3...4..
Lights out.
Press the power button....
FIZZZZZZZZ. POP.
90% sure this isn't PSU related but FFS..
CPU fan starts then powers down almost instantly.
No post, no response, no HDD...
Only two methods exist for fixing things. The first is to keep replacing good parts until something works. The second is to find what has failed and therefore what caused a failure before replacing anything. The first is called shotgunning. The second is how better informed techs do it so that failures do not keep happening.
As noted previously, "we don't have repeated electronic failures due, in part, to solutions that eliminate anomalies. Solutions implemented, in part, because the reason for failure is identified. So that future failures do not occur." Many instead want instant answers. And therefore resort to shotgunning.
A previous failure was not identified because details of previously damaged parts were not provided. The part was not identified. What the part connected to (ie follow PC traces and wires) was not identified. And erroneous assumptions (ie a thermal resistors must be connected to a heatsink) were being made.
Identify the actual exploded part in this new 'dead body'. Or find a rare tech (who actually knows how electricity works) to identify that part. Nobody can provide any useful answers without hard facts such as numbers. And other irrefutible facts such as the ID and connections to each exploding part.
In the fine print appears to be symptoms of a completely different failure. Is that correct?
In a previous failure, THR1 may have been a thermal resistor. And the symptoms were completely different? Without answers to those following questions, then nothing useful could be provided.
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Correct, completely different scenario. I have power, it just doesn't power up.
I cannot identify a faulty component this time.
I am going to be lobbing it all back in the attic from whence it all came.
I built the thing out of spare bits that are yonks old when I sold my gaming rig so that I could have a desktop pc in the living room. I have neither the time nor patience to shotgun minor issues on such a box of old bits.
The post was more of a FML cry than anything requiring investigative help.
But thanks anyway.
(I've already removed various components in stages and tried to fire it back up.. nowt. )
I cannot identify a faulty component this time.
I am going to be lobbing it all back in the attic from whence it all came.
I built the thing out of spare bits that are yonks old when I sold my gaming rig so that I could have a desktop pc in the living room. I have neither the time nor patience to shotgun minor issues on such a box of old bits.
The post was more of a FML cry than anything requiring investigative help.
But thanks anyway.
(I've already removed various components in stages and tried to fire it back up.. nowt.
)Those new symptoms imply a failure associated with a power controller. Either that controller has failed or inputs to that controller are declaring a problem. This problem is quickly identified by using a multimeter and one minute of labor. A tool sold mostly in stores that only sell simplest tools to layman. A tool sold in M a p l i n for about £7.
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