Mot - Fail :(

Kenai · 27 Apr 2011 at 12:45

BringTheRain said:
Well the garage opens toms, so i will get the verdict.

Not filled with a lot of confidence now lol

Found out what the damage is yet?

BringTheRain · 27 Apr 2011 at 17:47

Kenai said:
Found out what the damage is yet?

Well just got back from the garage, the complete engine is out

They Called on Tuesday and the news i got was awesome :rolleyes:

Basically, i have put a rod through the side of the block.

He actually laughed when i said is this bad.

He said i must have put it into 2nd at around a 100mph (private road

)

Since then the damage is this, as they took apart the old engine.

Rod through the side of the block.
20 belt valves
Damaged pistons heads
CLUTCH smashed to pieces!!!
Dual mass flywheel is damaged (don't know what that is)
gearbox RATTLES!!!!! He thinks teeth have been taking off.

So basically, i cant afford another BAM coded engine, last one was £1500. This is what the conversion is based on, as i had an ARZ engine (chocolate engine)

So i am paying £800 for an engine and gearbox, and £400 fitting. And it will be a standard golf again.

I then have the option of fitting the turbo, manifold, intercooler, ecu etc etc etc on again. Or selling it.

Oh and to top it all off!!!

i have to pay for an MOT re test!!!
AND
They have broken my £200 induction kit

So all in all fantastic news!

But i did save £90 as my car is a 2000 model and i dont have to get a type r103 approval cat

EDIT

The only thing that doesnt make sense. If i put a rod through a block, why didn't the car lock up front wheels and skid???? As i am assuming the engine would seize up? And then wheels? Or is that because the clutch blew to pieces?

Fuzz · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:33

EPIC FAIL

No the wheels wont skid as all the weight has transferred forward as the car tries to slow down to match the gear you engaged, which as said, sounds like second..

After that the torque goes through the driveshafts, gearbox, clutch, flywheel, crank and then pistons.

Sounds like the weakest link let go first, the rods, trying do accelerate to 10,000 rpm from the undriven end..
Rod snapped, pushed piston into valve, cambelt then broke and the other pistons followed in smashing themselves into the rest of the valves.

NICE WORK

Biohazard · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:35

to be fair the gearbox synchros should have prevented that if your speeds are accurate.

was it playing up before this?

BringTheRain said:
The only thing that doesnt make sense. If i put a rod through a block, why didn't the car lock up front wheels and skid???? As i am assuming the engine would seize up? And then wheels? Or is that because the clutch blew to pieces?

Yes.

I'd also be interested to know when you tried to start it if it was actually still turning, if so that's pretty rare not that it now matters mind you.

BringTheRain · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:37

Biohazard said:
to be fair the gearbox synchros should have prevented that if your speeds are accurate.

was it playing up before this?

By playing up, do you mean.

Can knock it out of gear without using clutch?
And
Crunchy all the time?

^^^ Coz thats what it was like for the last 2 or 3 months

Biohazard · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:41

BringTheRain said:
By playing up, do you mean.

Can knock it out of gear without using clutch?
And
Crunchy all the time?

^^^ Coz thats what it was like for the last 2 or 3 months

You can knock it out of gear at virtually any speed, and you can also get them back in at certain ones also, clutchless.

Crunchy all the time would be syncros or cable, how did the pedal and bite feel?

I'd be blaming your box for this.

BringTheRain · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:42

Biohazard said:
to be fair the gearbox synchros should have prevented that if your speeds are accurate.

was it playing up before this?

Yes.

I'd also be interested to know when you tried to start it if it was actually still turning, if so that's pretty rare not that it now matters mind you.

To be fair, music was still banging away, so i think it turned over, but dont know really

Fuzz · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:43

Biohazard said:
to be fair the gearbox synchros should have prevented that if your speeds are accurate.

was it playing up before this?

Sounds to me like the OP has no mechanical sympathy / aptitude what so ever.

But I will admit having ****ed synchros would have made it a lot easier to hash it up in such epic fashion.

Biohazard · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:44

BringTheRain said:
To be fair, music was still banging away, so i think it turned over, but dont know really

No I meant with the - "It doesnt start at all. Just span really fast for a few seconds then would attempt to turn over. "

Trying to 'catch' with a hole in the crankcase, a piston assembly astray and god know's what else floating about that's something.

BringTheRain · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:44

Biohazard said:
You can knock it out of gear at virtually any speed, and you can also get them back in at certain ones also, clutchless.

Crunchy all the time would be syncros or cable, how did the pedal and bite feel?

I'd be blaming your box for this.

Well every time i put car into reverse it would crunch. EVERY time.

Urm i would say the clutch pedal was always hard and stiff and bite, there wasnt any. It was either clutch off, or on. No biting point. BUT it had a paddle clutch fitted innnnnnnn 2007 i think

Fuzz · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:47

There isn't a synchro on reverse..

We are talking about the gear you put it in to have done all this damage, i.e 2nd

Biohazard · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:48

How was it in selecting 1/2/3/4/5?

The bite ever change with heat?

Can you see what preventative maintence with this might have saved?

Biohazard · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:49

Scubascorpion said:
There isn't a synchro on reverse..

We are talking about the gear you put it in to have done all this damage, i.e 2nd

No but you get reverse idlers.

He's talking about it because I asked him, I'm trying to figure out if it was his box or cable. Asking questions about other bits and pieces gives a larger picture.

Fuzz · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:51

The guy is just ham fisted at changing gear, it doesn't need an in depth analysis.

Biohazard · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:55

Well no I realise this but he may want to know how it happened and I was curious.

At 100mph there is no chance in hell i'm getting it to select 2nd and mechanical wear must have impacted on him a bit.

Still, nice.

Fuzz · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:57

YOU might not, but then you have a clue.

BringTheRain · 27 Apr 2011 at 18:58

Biohazard said:
How was it in selecting 1/2/3/4/5?

The bite ever change with heat?

Can you see what preventative maintence with this might have saved?

Urm when the car is cold, its a real pain to change gear. But after about 10 mins driving it became easier to change

Every time i put it into reverse it would crunch, no matter how i tried to change.

i would say i was doing around a 100 maybe less, but deffo more than 70mph (private road)

Fuzz · 27 Apr 2011 at 19:05

OK, enough of the mickey taking

The linkage on MK 4 golfs do have a tendency to seize up on top of the box. Never seen one engage two gears at once because of this.. ( I expect that was the direction Biohazard was going toward)
In fact, thinking about the shape of the two selector forks, it's an impossibility for you to "beat the box" as they say. There is one selector for each gear "set" and one for moving the collar between the two gears on each set.

However your latest description of being difficult to engage when cold as well as crunch all the time when selecting reverse suggests the clutch was dragging (and probably the reason it was like an on off switch).. Irrelevant to what's happened but thought I'd mention it.

Lopéz · 27 Apr 2011 at 19:08

I put a rod through the block on a Sierra. Was still driveable. Vibration city though.

BringTheRain · 27 Apr 2011 at 19:08

Ahh well, whats done is done. Was never happy with the last engine anyway.

My dad hopefully gets his new lease on his next car soon. So will cruise round it that