Motherboard - Time to Quit?

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Hi, ive tried to get an answer on so many forums. no one ever replies, PC Specialist cannot help either so this is my last place of trying before having to fork out for a whole new PC. Basically I need a replacement motherboard. My specs are below. Can anyone recommend one that would match please. :)

So my PC started giving 3 beeps and wouldn't boot. 3 beeps signalled a problem with the RAM. I bought 2 new RAM modules, no difference, tried everything and now only option is new motherboard but I don't know how to buy a suitable replacement, I will also be replacing it myself. My specs are below, can anyone guide me to a motherboard that will work please?

Its also possible that its actually a H510 as I remember they changed it at the last moment, thanks

Case PCS P209 ARGB MID TOWER CASE Processor (CPU) Intel® Core™ i5 Six Core Processor i5-10500 (3.1GHz) 12MB Cache Motherboard ASUS® H410M-A: Micro-ATX, DDR4, USB 3.2, SATA 6GBs Memory (RAM) 16GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 2400MHz (2 x 8GB) Graphics Card 4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 1050 Ti - DVI, HDMI, DP 1st Storage Drive NOT REQUIRED 1st M.2 SSD Drive 1TB CORSAIR MP400 NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD (up to 3480 MB/R, 1880 MB/W) DVD/BLU-RAY Drive NOT REQUIRED Power Supply CORSAIR 450W CV SERIES™ CV-450 POWER SUPPLY Power Cable 1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead) Processor Cooling STANDARD CPU COOLER Thermal Paste STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING Sound Card ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD) Network Card 10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT Wireless Network Card WIRELESS INTEL® Wi-Fi 6 AX200 2,400Mbps/5GHz, 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD + BT 5.0 USB/Thunderbolt Options MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS Operating System Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KK3-00002] Operating System Language United Kingdom - English Language Windows Recovery Media Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Unlimited Downloads from Online Account Office Software FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required) Anti-Virus NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE Browser Microsoft® Edge (Windows 10 Only) Warranty 3 Year Standard Warranty (1 Month Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour) Delivery STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI) Build Time Standard Build - Approximately 18 to 21 working days Promotional Item Get Humankind & Crysis Trilogy with select Intel® Core™ Processors
 
If that is the correct processor and they havent swapped that too, you can grab:

The Z590, H570, B560, and H510 500-series chipsets are compatible with Intel's 10th generation Core processors. These are roughly listed from most to least functionality. The W580 and Q570 chipsets are also compatible, but are intended for workstation and business use cases; their availability in stand-alone motherboards is limited. Intel's 500-series chipsets were primarily designed for 11th generation Core processors but are backward compatible with all 10th generation Core processors.

The Z490, H470, B460, and H410 400-series chipsets are also all compatible with Intel's 10th generation Core processors. Similar to the 500-series chipsets, the W480 and Q470 chipsets are also compatible, but are intended for workstation and business use cases; their availability in stand-alone motherboards is limited.

The P209 case appears to accept both Standard ATX board and m-ATX - So most motherboards should fit well.

Please also note that the 3 beeps could mean the memory controller on the processor is goosed - Although unlikely - Have you tried a single stick of RAM in each slot? One at a time?
 
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There's two things to keep in mind:
1. If you go with a 400 board, only the Z boards support an upgrade to 11th gen CPUs (officially anyway).
2. Some 500 boards do not support an M.2 in their primary slot with a 10th gen CPU.
 
Thank you everyone for your reply's. Yes I did try all combinations of RAM scenarios but no difference. Im not too technically minded and will be replacing the motherboard by myself, hopeing its just a case of unscrewing/unplugging bits and re assembling it. I took a look at the motherboards suggested byph123uk. All motherboards look the same to a newbie like me. I was thinking of just getting the first one suggested ( the Z590 ) and hoping once replaced it will all magically boot up. What pitfalls am I not seeing with replacing the motherboard. Ive not done anything like this before :/ and thanks for being an active forum :)
 
You should be fine with just replacing it and pulling the connectors, the worst part is probably the CPU because you'll have to take the heatsink off, remove and replace the CPU and reinstall the cooler with new thermal paste. Just take your time and watch some videos before you do anything. If you're not sure (or if it needs force), stop and check. Make sure you have plenty of room and plenty of light, with somewhere to safely store the removed components (not on a woolly jumper please :o ) while you work.

A Z490/Z590 board would be overkill for what you have, but it is your call (relating to budget, ofc).
 
Thank you everyone for your reply's. Yes I did try all combinations of RAM scenarios but no difference. Im not too technically minded and will be replacing the motherboard by myself, hopeing its just a case of unscrewing/unplugging bits and re assembling it. I took a look at the motherboards suggested byph123uk. All motherboards look the same to a newbie like me. I was thinking of just getting the first one suggested ( the Z590 ) and hoping once replaced it will all magically boot up. What pitfalls am I not seeing with replacing the motherboard. Ive not done anything like this before :/ and thanks for being an active forum :)

The motherboard is the most likely component to have died and not the cpu but until you swap it you cannot know for sure. With Intel 10th gen getting on a bit the choice of mobos is limited so if I was you I would get the cheapest Z590 available and that is the...


You should watch some videos on how to build a PC to get the general idea , there are hundreds on Youtube. In particular you should take care when removing the heatsink , the thermal paste on the cpu can create a suction effect and make it hard to get off. Do not pull up too hard or you could pull the cpu out the socket and cause damage , instead twist and rotate to help heat up the thermal paste and in the end it will lift off more easily.
The other tricky part is putting the cpu into the socket on the new mobo , be careful during this part and do not force it in. It is grown up lego so pay attention when taking the PC apart and everything should just plug back into very similarily placed sockets on the new mobo , if in doubt check the new mobo manual for where something plugs in

When you rebuild the PC you will need some new thermal paste. It does not need to be anything special so the cheapest will work just fine , vids you should have watched will show you on how to apply. You may also want to clean off the cpu so isopropyl alcohol is cheap and does the job.


Issues you may have are do to with the front panel USB and how your particular case connects to your current mobo. If you went for the gigabyte I suggest then they all should work but without seeing your case cannot be totally sure.
 
but I don't know how to buy a suitable replacement,

Your go-to motherboard is the MSI B560M Mortar. This is the MATX version of their Tomahawk and will set you back £150. Unfortunately OCUK don't have it in stock right now.

What they do have is the Asus Tuf Gaming B560M


which will serve you well. And get yourself a tube of thermal compound - Arctic Silver or MX-6 - and some isopropyl alcohol.
 
The easiest thing to do would be to get a identical motherboard and take some photo's before you remove the old one so that you know where everything goes. The downside is that will rule out any future upgrade to a 11*** series cpu in the future.
 
I'd be cautious about forking out for a new motherboard, this can possibly be the CPU, I've had a motherboard beeping about RAM before and it was the CPU at fault not the ram or the board.

Was your PC crashing or anything like that before it wouldn't boot?

Perhaps if you have a good local independent shop it might be better for them to diagnose it for you.
 
Um... I'm just going to point out the obvious here... guessing it's a prebuilt from the name mentioned (technically a rule break, this forum is run by OCUK, a pc store) in the original post... it could (probably is considering the i5 came out q2-2020) still technically be under warranty. Yes the OP would need to pay for said part and probably shipping but everything else should be covered as far as I can tell....

Having said that if you're not pc orientated, guessing this is likely due to prebuilt, I'd say it would be quicker/cheaper to just find someone local and get them fix it
 
Hi, so thanks for all your reply's. I wont be looking to upgrade the PC in the future as its over powerful enough already. As Pastymuncher suggested an identical mobo, this would be my plan but I do not know how to find an identical one as if I could then that would be my number 1 choice. Can anyone assist with an identical mobo? If not then ill get the Z590 and load up on thermal paste and Youtube videos :)
 
As they changed the motherboard, we cant know what it is for sure, if you could pop us a picture up, we will be able to help with that :) - Again, as i already specified, its possible its the CPU so this might not even fix it - I'd be tempted to ask PCS if the board is still under warranty - they can check that :)
 
Currently in stock and on offer for the same as the b560 boards and would allow you to replace cpu with something better in future if you so desire and has AC wireless if you want to go wireless if you dont already :)
 
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Thanks, Ill take a shot in the dark and just go with Mr Mcgoo's suggestion as above and hopefully it will all work :)

At a minimum you can double check just by glancing at the case (underneath the current motherboard) that there are physically the standoffs (or at least, the screw holes) available to support an ATX motherboard. You may also have to remove one (at the bottom) to make sure the new board doesn't short.
 
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