Motorcycle MOT

*Think* they both are. The mudguard i'm less confident about. A mudguard to stop water being splashed up when raining and a chain guard if you crash to try and stop it lopping fingers of.
 
Superb.

My bikes currently got no mudguard/chain guard as it was an all in one unit that couldn’t easily be removed when I changed the rear shock.

Got a new metal chain guard but it looks a bit naff and required drilling etc to fit the thing.


So far I have the following list of items of dubious legality.

Mini indicators front and rear
Renegade exhausts no baffles
Small plate
Unsecured battery (due to ZX10R 2009 shock conversion)
Broken bolt on rear calliper. Head is missing of one of the bolts. I did this when retorquing the calliper retention bolts when fitting the pads. This will probably be replaced before the MOT.
No chain guard
No rear mudguard

Could be an interesting MOT to say the least...
 
If you're friendly with a tester, try and ask if they'll give it the quick once over before the test? Or even take that list to them and ask?
 
It will fail on a broken caliper bolt for sure. Unless you are very friendly with the tester then the small plate will also cause it to fail as will I suspect the unsecured battery although why he would be removing the seat during an MoT I don't know. :p

Again depending on how well you know them, a Renegade zorst with nae baffles could be dubious. Renegades aren't exactly renowned for being quiet even for race cans.

When I take the Mille in for it's annual torture test I always fit the baffles to my Renegade high mounts. Even then its pretty loud. I used to have to refit the standard dustbin can but last year I asked him if I could leave the Rene's on as long as I fitted baffles. He asked me to pop by with it before the test so he could hear it and although he kind of looked at me with a wry smile on his face when he heard it he said it was fine.

That said I always refit the barn door sized number plate for the test, pretty much out of courtesy. I don't want him to think I'm taking the Michael too much. :cool:
 
Last year the bike passed with the following

Mini indicators front and rear
Renegade exhausts with baffles
Small plate

So hoping it will be ok. I will definitly need to get round to sorting the caliper bolt... (Superglue cough, cough)
 
If it's one of the caliper mounting bolts that attaches it to the fork leg just ask if he can drill it out and replace it?. Shouldn't cost much. Had to get this done on one of the lower front fork pinch bolts 2 years ago after I took them off to fit new fork seals. Sheared one of the heads right off ( and it was a Titanium bolt as well :eek: ).

If I remember rightly I think he charged me 30 mins labour and the cost of a new pinch bolt, few quid. :)
 
Surely if it's just the head that's snapped off you can remove the other bolt, remove the caliper and then get some mole grips on the remainder of the bolt (the part of the bolt that goes through the caliper itself usually isn't threaded) ? shouldnt need to pay anyone to do it..
 
RiPz said:
Surely if it's just the head that's snapped off you can remove the other bolt, remove the caliper and then get some mole grips on the remainder of the bolt (the part of the bolt that goes through the caliper itself usually isn't threaded) ? shouldnt need to pay anyone to do it..
Click to expand...

Another possibility, yep. :cool:
 
Its one of the bolts that connect the caliper to the caliper mount (There are 2 others on the SV). To drill it out i wrecken i would have to remove the rear wheel as pushing the bolt through the caliper would hit the brake Disc.

I have new genuine suzuki bolt in the house i just lack the skill to take the currenty one out.
 
Sometimes ive found when ive started to drill them they come loose then you can just unwind them with some pliers, try that before taking the rear wheel off, just it may all be seized and you dont want to bash things about when its wobbling about on a stand :p
 
Fireskull said:
Sometimes ive found when ive started to drill them they come loose then you can just unwind them with some pliers, try that before taking the rear wheel off, just it may all be seized and you dont want to bash things about when its wobbling about on a stand :p
Click to expand...

Going to give it a go at the weekend ill cut of the currently extruded bit before i start so if it does spin lose the part that is left should be able to be pulled past the disc.
 
A small numberplate won't fail. ;) if it doesn't have one it will but mine was 2" x 5" and passed. ;)

Until you take the mirrors off, the indicators off, the instruments off (only a rev counter and temp gauge ;))stick race rearsets on (and race pattern linkage), a race fairing (minus headlight), a fog light (to replace the headlight minus the fog filter) and add a rear reflector (to pass a full night time MOT ;)) you've got some going. :D

Not that i have ever had such. :D
 
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