Depends which Schwalbe tyre. I've got Magic Mary Soft, Hans Dampf SpeedGrip both on Trail casing at the minute and they're brilliant.
Got faster rolling I sometimes run Nobby Nic SpeedGrip in Ground casing.
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Mountain Biking
- Thread starter Zefan
- Start date
Got faster rolling I sometimes run Nobby Nic SpeedGrip in Ground casing.
You won't go wrong with either. Both are a great tyre and for the layman there's not a huge amount in it.
I like schwalbe, how the tyre profile is when you lean the bike but I know loads of great riders that swear by Maxxis minions and assegai.
The softness of the rubber compounds in each model can also make a difference. I life the soft vs the ultra soft in Schwalbe as it lasts a bit longer too
For super dry trail riding you might not need the ultra sticky compounds, but then it's a case of how you feel about price and longevity.
Like the new brakes! How do you find the mullet setup as I’m after a new full suspension mountain bike but unsure whether to both 29” or mullet (29”/27.5”)?Changed it all out, now to go and bed in. First impressions though are a resounding WOW. I put in new pads too after the fact, some MTX reds and im properly impressed. The MDR-P is also rather tasty! I just need to modulate my trigger happy fingers a little now to save myself from going over the bars!
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Soldato
It depends how you ride and what your riding (ie Cross country, downhill, trails etc).
A 29er front and rear with a more conventional head tube angle and shorter suspension range in the region of 120-140mm I found on a 29er front and rear to work and feel really nice . This was a Scott Spark 930 fyi, and it was lovely to ride on the limited amount of time I had on it. I did feel that it wasn’t as well suited to climb as the Status with its 29/27.5 mullet, it just didn’t feel as grippy in the rear however I didn’t feel as tired whilst climbing on the Scott if that makes any sense.
The relaxed geo, mullet set up makes the status feel more closely related to a DH bike than a cross country bike if that comparison works for you, I appreciate it’s an Enduro bike but it’s hard to really describe how that translates in to rider feel.
I wouldn’t want to ride the Status for long trips on more flat gravel like surfaces though. It doesn’t have a lock out feature and it’s a bit wollowy which can and does take it out of you after a while.
I’d also think about a frame size up on a mullet, for me, I have a larger torso than legs than you would see typically. As such, a smaller bike has me at more up right which puts more weight over the rear and makes the front a bit more loose. I went a frame size up which has me leaning a little more forward taking some of the strain out of the rear shock and making the front feel more sure footed and the rear a bit more lively making the bike loads of fun to ride.
My main gripe however is that I need to keep 2 tyres in a box at home as spare rather than the one and if I should decide to go somewhere for a few days I know for a fact through being a creature of habit that I will pick one up, not thinking and it’ll be the one I don’t pick up that will give out when I’m riding and miles from home/shops.
Smaller wheels are stronger than larger wheels so that’s something to consider if you’re a bit rough with it. Secondly, it just looks cool but as with anything it’s marmite, you’ll either love it or hate it when you are sat eating a sandwich and it’s propped up against a tree looking like it’s been cobbled together from spare parts. For me personally I thought it was weird but now Im rather partial to it. Makes it look more suited the the task at hand.
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I wouldn't put an Assegai down on the list for tyres that work great in the dry, but it is fully capable. And without knowing what Schwalbe you are considering, hard to advise.
All the known brands produce excellent tyres across all spectrums of riding, it really comes down to your own preferences. Most of the tyres share the same rough design, mostly to get around patent infringement, and unless you are looking at full wet or spikes, they could be said to all be much of a muchness - but some will certainly not be suitable for specific conditions.
Depending on the inner width of your rims, you may have a choice to make between 2.35", 2.4", 2.5" or 2.6" wide tyres, depending on the brand. And you might decide to run wider tyres on a hardtail than you would on a full-suspension bike.
Depending on your riding style, you may want to go for a more trail-oriented tyre, or something more enduro-rated or even downhill-rated. The different in the casing will give you a very different experience on the bike.
Then you have your compound, do you want something fast-rolling but that might lack grip? Something really tacky, but that rolls slower? Or something in-between?
appreciate your thoughts and taking the time to reply. I’m still pretty sold on a 29r as I like the setup on my hard tail and prefer XC over bumpy techy trails can appreciate there are many situations where a 27.5”/mullet setup could be better.
Always a compromise I guess depending on the terrain.
I’m kind of between a Stumpjumper or a Fuel EX at the moment. Erring towards the trek as they do a mid-size ML which at 5”9 would suit me near perfectly i think.
Struggling to find a local bike shop with either in stock at my size to try though frustratingly.
First Full Suspension MTB - Trek Fuel Ex, Specialized Stumpjumper or something else ~£2500
As an avid commuter I'm looking to get back into mountain biking this summer and would like to replace my decade old hardtail MTB with a new full suspension model. Looking to spend about £2000-2500. Initially I was considering either a Specialized Stumpjumper or a Trek Fuel as it's mainly light...
forums.overclockers.co.uk
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Soldato
I did have a look at a stuntjumper something or other at Evans the other day when I was in that was £2.2k?. Its geo seems to be closer to that of the Scott Spark that I was referring to and it looks far more typical with its 29 front and rear.appreciate your thoughts and taking the time to reply. I’m still pretty sold on a 29r as I like the setup on my hard tail and prefer XC over bumpy techy trails can appreciate there are many situations where a 27.5”/mullet setup could be better.
Always a compromise I guess depending on the terrain.
I’m kind of between a Stumpjumper or a Fuel EX at the moment. Erring towards the trek as they do a mid-size ML which at 5”9 would suit me near perfectly i think.
Struggling to find a local bike shop with either in stock at my size to try though frustratingly.
First Full Suspension MTB - Trek Fuel Ex, Specialized Stumpjumper or something else ~£2500
As an avid commuter I'm looking to get back into mountain biking this summer and would like to replace my decade old hardtail MTB with a new full suspension model. Looking to spend about £2000-2500. Initially I was considering either a Specialized Stumpjumper or a Trek Fuel as it's mainly light...
When comparing to the the Status, the forks are a little more light weight running 34mm rather than 36mm on the stanchions and 140mm rather than 160mm. The rest of the bike is also more upright and more friendly than the Status for every day riding, again like the Spark. Have you had a look at the Scott Sparks? The Entry level 970 can be found for around £1650 however a better specified 940/950/960 seem to go for around £3k or less and I know there are a few with some rather high end versions of the Spark in this thread who may be able to provide a little insight. Food for thought.
Scott’s not a brand I’m familiar with but I’ll check it out as the spec/geo of the spark sounds like what I’m looking for. Cheers for the advice.
Had a look at the Specialized status in store but I’m not sure about the mullet setup for my use and I don’t like the design of the frame. Granted the fork/shock is better but you can clearly see they’ve cut costs on the frame finish/quality to achieve that versus the Stumpjumper IMO.
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Associate
thanks i was just going from what the local store has but i guess i can just order some online so doesnt matter
the bike is off road all the time usually a mix of dry mud and grass and wet mud and grass but a huge bias towards dry
bike is a hardtail, just casual riding, i guess something balanced wouldbe best !
Associate
i feel like im a bit in over my head ha ha
i didnt consider that there are different compounds and stuff
sounds like for my kind of casual riding it might not matter too much
I almost always have a Magic Mary Super Trail soft on the front and then on the rear recently a Big Betty Soft that gets swapped out for a Hans Dampf when its super dry in the summer. I always always try and go for a 2.5 or 2.6 width but I've got really wide wheels.
Sorry if that overwhelmed you, was trying to give you some idea of how many options there are out there, which was both a success and a failure!
Do you happen to know what wheels are on your hardtail? Or if not and you know the model and year, it will be easy to look up.
As you are on a hardtail, you may want a slightly wider profile tyre than normal. As an example, a Schwalbe 2.6" can give you some added comfort (and traction) but on really narrow rims, they will be a balloon.
you need an CX tyre ?
Assegai is for Enduro/Downhill mainly, tyres that need to grab rocks, tree roots etc, they also throw a crazy amount of mud around if its a bit sloppy
Yea rim width basically dictates how wide a tyre your bike should run.
and most bikes will come with what the manufacturer considers the optimal widths anyway
Square = Optiomal , Circle = compatible
Source https://www.wtb.com/pages/tire-rim-fit-chart
What width rims are on your guys bikes? I have a EMTB and 30mm inner tyre width https://www.mtb-mag.com/en/tested-wtb-htz-i30-wheelset/
What bikes are coming with 30+ downhill and fat bikes?
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You may see some downhill bikes with odd rim widths (31.5mm is about as wide as I have seen pre-fitted) but 30mm seems to be the average. Really depends on the rims people fit, Hope are 30mm, Halo are 27.5mm, Crank Brothers are 31.5mm, Reserve are 31mm, DT Swiss are 30mm, e*Thirteen are 30mm.
35mm seem to be mostly e-bike and some Enduro-tailored brands, usually with a wider front and a narrower, 30mm rear.
Soldato
After having to wait out the Cyclescheme process, the new bike finally arrived yesterday.
Unfortunately, Canyon sent it unassembled (it's supposed to have the rear wheel and mech attached), and I'm too stupid to know how to deal with that bit.
Canyon customer services offered a fake apology and said they'll pay up to £60 for a bike shop to put it together for me, so I'll drop it off next week. The shop charges £80 for a full bike setup, so I'll be out £20 but it'll be better set up than I'd do it
Bit annoying, tbh. You wonder how Canyon mess that up, given they don't actually give the option of NOT having the rear wheel fitted, as far as I can tell.
Rear mech install is a doddle watching a youtube video as a guide.
Got a torque wrench? I think Eagle is 35nm torque on the derailleur.
Don't have a torque wrench? then buy one.
literally install the derailleur and torque it to spec.
install the back wheel.
try and set up the derailleur yourself.
if you can't set it up right then take your bike to the bike shop and guess what, gear indexing is £15-20
blue thread lock the limit screws, or they are likely to rattle loose over time.
your going to need to index your gears at some point anyway, so you might as well have a go.
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Soldato
The Rockgaurdz carbon lower bar protection arrived, it’s been fitted and tested and it’s great! Very happy with it. It weighs next to nothing and should probably take a beating rather than the frame. If it does smash I get a replacement so I can’t complain at that either
Unusual for them not to have the rear axle installed and the rear wheel in the frame... was it from Canyon direct?
The mech is not usually attached to the frame to avoid damage in transit. As it'll be a UDH (Universal Derailleur Hanger) based mech, you should just need to attach that to the frame and all will be well as the gears will already be set-up properly.
Have you looked over the Stoic help videos?
Stoic
This is the place to find information about your Stoic. Including how to guides, bike servicing, regular maintenance and repairs and improvements.
www.canyon.com
11nm for mechanical SRAM derailleurs, 25nm for the UDH. Good and tight without going mental should be sufficient, given a decent torque wrench is not likely to be cheap.
That's a new one on me, never had that happen in 20-years of riding. And if you did feel the need for Loctite, you would use Purple 222 which allows for slight adjustment afterwards.