Moving double mains socket?

DHR

DHR

Soldato
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30 Apr 2003
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Are there any regs against moving your own wall sockets?

I have one off to the left of the room, I need to move it about 90cm to the right of the wall, then add another one half way up the wall before mounting a TV?

Tempted to get a sparky in to do it, but the last time I did the channelling and filling they did was rubbish so i'm thinking I could do a better job myself this time?

.... just not very confident!
 
Regs or not I'd suggest leaving it to a sparky if you aren't confident.

How about a halfway house, fit the back boxes and run the cables yourself to a standard you're happy with, then get a sparky to join it all up? If you go that route speak to them first and they'll fill you in on the regs of where and how you can run the cables before you start as you can't just put them anywhere.
 
Turn off the electric, remove the socket and tape up the bare wires. Then do the channelling yourself.

After this it's up to you if you're confident enough to rewire or to get an electrician in.
 
Won't the issue be that the socket is on a ring and the chances are you'll need to extend the wiring one way or another to accommodate moving it 90cm?

My experience of backboxes are that there won't be 90cm of spare cable for you to play with. I'm not sure if it would be acceptable to use wagos as you won't be able to get to them after you have finished.

Just my observations as a casual DIY'er :)
 
Ideally you need to channel as far each way as the next socket each side of the ring and replace the wire for 2.5mm flat twin +E to retain integrity of the ring. You won't be able to have both sockets on a spur although once you move the first one you can spur off that the 2nd one halfway up the wall.
Keep cable runs horizontal or vertical.
 
Ideally you need to channel as far each way as the next socket each side of the ring and replace the wire for 2.5mm flat twin +E to retain integrity of the ring. You won't be able to have both sockets on a spur although once you move the first one you can spur off that the 2nd one halfway up the wall.
Keep cable runs horizontal or vertical.


out of interest why 2.5mm and not 1.5mm cable? just wondering what the general rule is for this i/e plugs vs sockets vs lights etc.
 
out of interest why 2.5mm and not 1.5mm cable? just wondering what the general rule is for this i/e plugs vs sockets vs lights etc.

Because that's what the regs say you need for that type of circuit.

Normally sockets will be supplied by a 32amp ring main. 2.5 Is rated up to around 20 amps (there are quite a few technicalities to bare in mind) but you can achieve twice that by making a ring main (connecting the circuit at both ends). It's important to bare in mind that if the continuity of the ring is broken in one place the circuit will still work but won't be able to carry as much current safely.
 
Won't the issue be that the socket is on a ring and the chances are you'll need to extend the wiring one way or another to accommodate moving it 90cm?

My experience of backboxes are that there won't be 90cm of spare cable for you to play with. I'm not sure if it would be acceptable to use wagos as you won't be able to get to them after you have finished.

Just my observations as a casual DIY'er :)

wagos are ok as they are clamps so dont need to be maintained like a choccy block would.
 
wagos are ok as they are clamps so dont need to be maintained like a choccy block would.
Was just about to say this, the main advantage of wagos is once in a suitable container ie wago box they are considered maintenance free so can be buried in walls or under floors unlike traditional choc block which must be accessible.

From the sounds of it OP your not confident in the wiring side of it, I'd get a sparky to do it but do all the chasing and filling yourself (Most sparkys hate doing it anyway) if you get someone round they can show you exactly where to chase then they when your ready can come round sort out the wiring and leave you to fill sand and decorate. Tip for filling use plaster board adhesive rather than bonding coat then once it's set finish with a general purpose surface filler and lightly sand great results with zero hassle and quick setting.
 
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