Mr-2 common faults
- Thread starter Kaeo
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Dec 2005
- Posts
- 11,364
- Location
- Cheshire
So I'm looking at a facelift '03 Mr-2 tomorrow, just wondering if there's anything (except from the usual rust etc) that these cars are known for? Help much appreciated.
Early models can have issues with the pre-cats. Most were fixed under warranty or removed all together. Make sure to check this.
Caporegime
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 37,804
- Location
- block 16, cell 12
oil burning can be a big problem look for any blue smoke from a cold start up.
. I currently drive a 1.0i citroen ax, so anything is more gutsy. 
As mentioned above - almost always in pre-facelift form the cars can start eating through a serious amount of oil due to oval bore, this in turn causes the pre-cat which is just a ceramic lattice to break up, in turn this is sucked back into the engine with an end result of the unit eating itself.
The pre cats tend to be removed as a precaution, I did this on mine - an easy but messy job. Would be worth doing or having it done on a facelift just as a precaution but by no means a neccesity, if the pre cats go it's because the engine has other issues.
A tell tale sign of the problem is if the car sounds a bit diesel-ish. A tappet noise is fine but any sort of rattle/clatter then walk away. Ensure the car has a decent amount of oil in.
If you open the engine cover and look at the right hand side of the block you should be able to see a little metal diamond with 2 bolts - this is the timing chain tensioner, it is forever leaking and sometimes no amount of sealant can sort it out. It's not really a big deal so long as it isn't chucking masses of oil out - again I could never get mine totally oil-tight but over a period of 6 months or so oil loss never even registered on the dipstick.
Have a look underneath from the back and generally check for oil, if it's on the right hand side and is a small amount then it's probably just the tensioner as above - anything anywhere else you want to investigate.
Check the car has had regular oil changes and what oil is going in, ask the owner if it burns any oil - if it does then be cautious, they can use a bit and be healthy but as you're not the owner it will be difficult to get a feel for how much it's actually using.
Check the abs and engine management lights actually light up on startup - if the eml stays on and the car drives fine you will more than likely find it's the post-cat lambda that's away, £60 to buy a decent replacement.
Look at the hood, if you unclip it from the car and fold it back a bit, then look at the main rear bar you'll probably find that the straps connecting the canvas to the pole is away. To confirm this has happened fold the roof down, you'll find the corners stick up rather than tuck in. I don't honestly think this is any sort of big deal but again some bargaining power.
Check the little doors behind the seats are there, I took mine off for ease of chucking in shopping etc but kept them with the car.
Open the front and check the plastic and space saver are still there. Lift the plastic and check the brake fluid and power steering, if it's possible then take the wheel out and remove enough plastic to see the rack and ps pipes - they are bad for rusting / leaking. Not expensive for a second hand set of pipes and you can install yourself if you've got basic mechanical skills.
If the car is facelift just check it has the right wheels, the rears should be 16" form memory with 15" fronts. As it's mid engined you want matching, decent tyres on both axles, also check the wheels for corrosion as they are terrible for it. Obviously a refurb can sort this but you dont want to start throwing hundreds at a new car.
If you are buying from someone who knows about the car they should be able to tell you about all of the above and more off-hand but if it's just someone who has owned one as it's a little convertible then it's worth taking time to check all of these.
I loved mine, they are certainly not fast but fun to keep on the boil and are unstickable in the dry. I had the roof down whenever possible too
The pre cats tend to be removed as a precaution, I did this on mine - an easy but messy job. Would be worth doing or having it done on a facelift just as a precaution but by no means a neccesity, if the pre cats go it's because the engine has other issues.
A tell tale sign of the problem is if the car sounds a bit diesel-ish. A tappet noise is fine but any sort of rattle/clatter then walk away. Ensure the car has a decent amount of oil in.
If you open the engine cover and look at the right hand side of the block you should be able to see a little metal diamond with 2 bolts - this is the timing chain tensioner, it is forever leaking and sometimes no amount of sealant can sort it out. It's not really a big deal so long as it isn't chucking masses of oil out - again I could never get mine totally oil-tight but over a period of 6 months or so oil loss never even registered on the dipstick.
Have a look underneath from the back and generally check for oil, if it's on the right hand side and is a small amount then it's probably just the tensioner as above - anything anywhere else you want to investigate.
Check the car has had regular oil changes and what oil is going in, ask the owner if it burns any oil - if it does then be cautious, they can use a bit and be healthy but as you're not the owner it will be difficult to get a feel for how much it's actually using.
Check the abs and engine management lights actually light up on startup - if the eml stays on and the car drives fine you will more than likely find it's the post-cat lambda that's away, £60 to buy a decent replacement.
Look at the hood, if you unclip it from the car and fold it back a bit, then look at the main rear bar you'll probably find that the straps connecting the canvas to the pole is away. To confirm this has happened fold the roof down, you'll find the corners stick up rather than tuck in. I don't honestly think this is any sort of big deal but again some bargaining power.
Check the little doors behind the seats are there, I took mine off for ease of chucking in shopping etc but kept them with the car.
Open the front and check the plastic and space saver are still there. Lift the plastic and check the brake fluid and power steering, if it's possible then take the wheel out and remove enough plastic to see the rack and ps pipes - they are bad for rusting / leaking. Not expensive for a second hand set of pipes and you can install yourself if you've got basic mechanical skills.
If the car is facelift just check it has the right wheels, the rears should be 16" form memory with 15" fronts. As it's mid engined you want matching, decent tyres on both axles, also check the wheels for corrosion as they are terrible for it. Obviously a refurb can sort this but you dont want to start throwing hundreds at a new car.
If you are buying from someone who knows about the car they should be able to tell you about all of the above and more off-hand but if it's just someone who has owned one as it's a little convertible then it's worth taking time to check all of these.
I loved mine, they are certainly not fast but fun to keep on the boil and are unstickable in the dry. I had the roof down whenever possible too
Last edited:
Associate
- Joined
- 24 Jun 2008
- Posts
- 1,168
What he said!
Plus the mirror thing, you can move the mirror up higher, it pivots at both ends, I never had a problem with it being in the way.
Also check in the rear storage for dampness, usually caused by blocked side drains, not a big issue to clear them out, but worth looking at.
Any damage to the softtop just walk away they are stupidly expensive to replace (~£1500 from Toyota). This also applies to the rear screen it can't be replaced without the whole soft top.
Matching tires is also something to check the cars are quite finely balanced and coming from a 1ltr Saxo the handling will be a lot different to what you are used to.
Enjoy it,
For further reading try the following
http://www.mr2roc.org
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk
http://www.imoc.co.uk
Plus the mirror thing, you can move the mirror up higher, it pivots at both ends, I never had a problem with it being in the way.
Also check in the rear storage for dampness, usually caused by blocked side drains, not a big issue to clear them out, but worth looking at.
Any damage to the softtop just walk away they are stupidly expensive to replace (~£1500 from Toyota). This also applies to the rear screen it can't be replaced without the whole soft top.
Matching tires is also something to check the cars are quite finely balanced and coming from a 1ltr Saxo the handling will be a lot different to what you are used to.
Enjoy it,
For further reading try the following
http://www.mr2roc.org
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk
http://www.imoc.co.uk