Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

Righto, nearly all the bits are here now so gonna start building this soonish :) Frame, motors, props and ESC's from phil@makeitbuildit. VTX is a 600mw hawk-eye which I've heard good things about, so we will see. Unsure on camera yet, have a mini pz0420 I can use, an uncased one and have just ordered one of the tiny cmos cameras as it only weighs 3g! D4rII, naze32 I already have kicking around.

The mission is going to be to keep it as light as possible!

PICS.........

Bare frame - not sure how accurate my scales are! Finish looks pretty good, nice and matt.





with hardware





I'm fairly confident I can use the shorter supplied standoffs and still cram everything in if I remove the headers from the naze and solder the motors/rx direct to the board. Not using OSD or telemetry, so no need of other pins.

Rx will most likely go on the back.
 
Yeah, that's the badger. Started piecing it together last night, should have it ready for the weekend. I'm looking to get it near to 250g with battery but without mobius.

Then maybe see if it will take 4s :)
 
Got mail today :) Wish I picked a better frame after looking at the one I got though :(

xgtYErJ.jpg
 
spookywillow said:
Got mail today :) Wish I picked a better frame after looking at the one I got though :(
Click to expand...

It will be fine. And if you love the 250 then you can always grab a better/different/worse one when you have more of an idea of how/where/when you fly. e.g. if you like bonkers speed runs in open spaces then you will need a frame that can handle heavy impacts and carry larger motors and batteries. If you only fly in small spaces during your lunch hour, you could get a smaller 180mm frame. Most of the components will be transferable (unless you break them!)

Somebody once asked a photographer what the best camera was and he said "the one you have with you"

that might relevant or I might be talking a load of **** as usual.
 
I got this for speed but the box immediately said no stunts etc :(

I have my large Tri for cruising and video which can be quite acrobatic when I have the guts so I got this to throw around and put in the car as it's far easier than my other one.

I'm going to machine a frame at work if things work out ok, I can't see it not as I miss the fun I had with my Hubsan x4 :D
 
little bit more completed

Too tired to do much else, annoyingly. GF seems to have funny ideas about gardening and social contact too, which is holding things up.

Just soldered the motor wires to the ESC's and heatshrinked them up. Also started planning out the power cables. My initial plan was to run them under the naze along with the rx, but I think it's going to be a bit tight, so I will probably lower the FC a bit and have the 5v step underneath and the rx on top. It will all fit in the shortened tower.

Why has no-one designed an integrated PDB/Naze/OSD/rx/vtx board yet? Or even 2 boards that stack via pins to give modularity/options!

Desoldered:


Motors soldered direct to the ESC. These are still wire, even down this close to the motor, so no problem with soldering!


And heatshrinked and installed. I'm going to heatshrink them onto the arms as well. I'm in two minds what to do about the signal/ground leads. On one hand I want to cut them to length to keep things tidy but I would also like to be able flash and fiddle with BLheli if I need to. Decisions, decisions.....
 
Today is great day for micro multirotors enthusiasts. Banggood listed their version of the 1104 brushless motor, RCTimer did the same the other day. In response, RotorX have dropped the price of theirs to sub $13.

In case this means nothing to you, the 1104 motor class are approx. 5g a piece and are good for 2s and 3s operation. For reference, a Hubsan X4 0820 motor is around the same weight.

The dawn of the micro brushless racer is upon us :cool:
 
Gandhi, get that heatshrink off again and shorten the ESC signal/gnd wire at the ESC lol. That way you can keep the servo connector in place and lose the excess wire
 
Stampede!!!!

Best someone gets designing a really cool frame for 3" props then. One that isn't on a permanent 8-12 week pre-order. Yes RotorX, I'm looking at YOU!

I'd really like a 150 size hex!
 
d_brennen said:
Gandhi, get that heatshrink off again and shorten the ESC signal/gnd wire at the ESC lol. That way you can keep the servo connector in place and lose the excess wire
Click to expand...

Lol, why didn't I think of that!

I did consider soldering a couple of pins onto the ESC board so I could create all sorts of heatshrink-based hell for myself when it came to reflash/tweak settings but that is a much better solution.

This is what happens when you try do things too late at night maybe. Thank you :)
 
Ooooh, I see the Chinese place has 1104 4000kv motors in stock now. Might have to bag some of those for the Diatone 150. Pity they don't have props and the only place that does, wants $40 to ship a 10g package from the US to the UK.........
 
gandhi said:
Stampede!!!!

Best someone gets designing a really cool frame for 3" props then. One that isn't on a permanent 8-12 week pre-order. Yes RotorX, I'm looking at YOU!

I'd really like a 150 size hex!
Click to expand...

I tend to over think things too. Helps to throw it out there on a forum :D

Blade_150_with_PDB_CF_ET.jpg

Blade "ET 150" Carbon Fibre with PDB/BEC - 26g - £12.75 on Banggood

Float your boat?

Motors - Eachine BG 1104 - £7.22 on Banggood (x4)
ESC - DYS sn20a - £7.27 on Banggood (x4)
FC - CC3D - £9.85 on Banggood

Honestly, this sort of thing would have cost hundreds a year or two ago, and wouldn't have nearly the performance. I've ordered a bunch of the BG1104 motors to test, they are a bit of an unknown at the moment. **** HobbyKing and their shipping and non existent CS/warranty, I'm only using them for lipos for now, until someone better steps up

733046_ET1502.jpg


SKU248432_10.jpg


SKU248432_2.jpg
 
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