Repair / Replace Guide
Symptoms
Bite at the bottom of the clutch pedal
Spongy feeling clutch
Slight fluid dripping out of cylinder boot
The slave clutch cylinder is located on the drivers side lower engine block, improved access can be gained by taking the drivers front road wheel off.
Several approaches can be taken to deal with a Slave cylinder problem :
Mazda Supply a referb kit
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/255
Aftermarket Unit
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/252
Mazda Original unit
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/873
If you can I'd advise stripping down the slave cylinder first to see what's wrong with it, as a rule of thumb unless dirt has got past the units rubber boot then the bore should be alright and a referb kit should do the job, if the unit show signs of dirt and the bore is scored then replace then unit.
Tools needed
Trolley jack
Axel stand
Wheel brace
12mm Socket & ratchet
9 & 6mm open ended spanner
Flat bladed screwdriver
Brake bleed hose
Receptacle for clutch fluid
Brake / clutch fluid
Lubricating oil
High melting point grease
Brake cleaning spray
Paper towels
Eye protection & Gloves!
Removal guide
Slacken front drivers side wheel nuts
Jack up the front driver side of the car using a suitable trolley jack at the factory Mazda sill points, support the car on axel stands since you will be under the car.
Remove the front drivers side road wheel.
Looking into the wheel arch towards the back of the engine you will see the gearbox / slave cylinder / clutch fork.
The unit consists of two 12mm bolts, a 9mm clutch feed nut and a 6mm bleed nipple, depending who serviced the car last the bleed nipple can be tricky to slacken off.
Spray the oil on all the nuts and allow to soak in for a while.
Slacken the cap from the Clutch Master Cylinder just enough to allow some air to get in, remove the dust cap from the bleed nipple and place the bleed hose on the end, place other end into fluid receptacle.
Slowly back off the bleed nipple using the 6mm spanner, you don't need to back the nipple out too far, watch for first signs of fluid coming up the pipe.
Pump the clutch pedal to remove the remainder of the fluid in the system.
Tighten up Brake Master Cylinder cap.
Tighten up Bleed nipple and replace bleed cap.
Using the 9mm spanner fully remove the 9mm clutch feed nut from its fixings.
Using the 12mm socket remove the upper and lower mounting bolts (You man need to gain access through the bonnet and use and extension bar if the bolts are done up too tight.
You can now fully remove the Slave Cylinder from the car (Use a pull forward action to remove the rod from the clutch fork.
Using the flat bladed screwdriver remove the rubber boot from the body of the slave cylinder, expect some fluid to be in the boot.
Place the piston end of the unit in the palm of your hand and gently jolt the unit in a sharp downwards action to remove the piston out of the bore, may take a while to do this.
Inspect the bore for wear, if you see grooves down the bore best to get a new unit, if the bore looks ok buy a referb kit.
Clean up the piston to clutch fork connecting rod / slave body and bore of unit using soft towels and a brake cleaning spray (If you are going to referb the unit)
Fitting guide (New unit)
Apply some high melting point grease to the clutch fork rod.
Offer up the new unit up to the car, slotting the rod into the clutch fork first.
Attach the unit to the car with the two 12mm bolts.
Connect up the 9mm clutch feed nut.
Remove dust cap from bleed nipple.
Slacken off bleed nipple slightly.
Attach bleed pipe to nipple and place other end into receptacle.
Remove Clutch Master Cylinder filler cap and top up with Brake / clutch fluid.
Pump clutch pedal a few times and go check on the fluid level.
Repeat this process (Never allow the fluid in the Clutch Master Cylinder reservoir to get too low) until air bubbles are no longer visible out of the bleed nipple.
Tighten up the bleed nipple / replace dust cap.
Refit road wheel.
Fitting guide (Referb kit)
Taking the now cleaned body of the original unit, apply a small coat of brake fluid on the bore (Not really needed but gets things moving smooth).
Push the new piston and spring into the bore.
Place new boot over the clutch fork connecting rod then attach the other end of the boot over the body of the slave cylinder unit
Apply some high melting point grease to the clutch fork rod.
Offer up the unit up to the car, slotting the rod into the clutch fork first.
Attach the unit to the car with the two 12mm bolts.
Connect up the 9mm clutch feed nut.
Remove dust cap from bleed nipple.
Slacken off bleed nipple slightly.
Attach bleed pipe to nipple and place other end into receptacle.
Remove Clutch Master Cylinder filler cap and top up with Brake / clutch fluid.
Pump clutch pedal a few times and go check on the fluid level.
Repeat this process (Never allow the fluid in the Clutch Master Cylinder reservoir to get too low) until air bubbles are no longer visible out of the bleed nipple.
Tighten up the bleed nipple / replace dust cap.
Refit road wheel.
