***My first Rad Box - Clear Acrylic***
- Thread starter Firegod
- Start date
Thanks everyone. 
Bradley, yeah just used a jigsaw mate. Slow and steady is the key, too quick and the blade's friction causes the acrylic to melt into blobs. Not too dire when it happens and a quick going over with sandpaper/wet n' dry get's rid of the marks left.
So just cover the sheet in masking tape where you're going to cut, draw your bits on in pencil, and cut away.
For the blades we used, bosch T101AO blades, again, designed for cutting wood. They worked champion and the edges of the acrylic were nice and smooth and clean.
For the holes, screwholes, etc, we used drill bits specialised for wood. So the ends of the drill bits are flat with the point in the middle (think of a heart rate monitor machine, with like a flatline, then a peak, then flatline). That's the shape of the end of the drill bit. Bits for steel, aluminium, etc have a tapered point.
Think that's it. Nothing too specialised really.
Bradley, yeah just used a jigsaw mate. Slow and steady is the key, too quick and the blade's friction causes the acrylic to melt into blobs. Not too dire when it happens and a quick going over with sandpaper/wet n' dry get's rid of the marks left.
So just cover the sheet in masking tape where you're going to cut, draw your bits on in pencil, and cut away.
For the blades we used, bosch T101AO blades, again, designed for cutting wood. They worked champion and the edges of the acrylic were nice and smooth and clean.
For the holes, screwholes, etc, we used drill bits specialised for wood. So the ends of the drill bits are flat with the point in the middle (think of a heart rate monitor machine, with like a flatline, then a peak, then flatline). That's the shape of the end of the drill bit. Bits for steel, aluminium, etc have a tapered point.
Think that's it. Nothing too specialised really.
Associate
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2008
- Posts
- 2,168
- Location
- Sunny Wales.
k thx. may pick some up off flea bay and give it a shot.