My Quest to become an ADI

Soldato
Joined
11 Nov 2004
Posts
8,183
Location
Couvains, France
Spent most of my life in financial services but due to personal circumstances, divorce, death of my spouse and ultimately Bankruptcy, I am no longer able to follow that profession.

My father was a Driving Instructor who taught the Police to drive, I love driving and my career in financial services involved a 10+ year stint as a trainer so I thought a good career for the future was working as an Approved Driving Instructor.

An approved Driving Instructor has some reasonably strict requirements as you will be working with many young people aged 17 yrs and up, so as you can imagine, you need a CRB check, clean licence and not have any outstanding prosecutions.

I researched the usual routes people take, Red, AA, LDC but with my current job and income levels there was no way I could avoid to buy in to a franchise system which requires a typical spend of £2,500-£3,000 for training etc so I decided to move forward under my own steam.

I commenced the CRB check via the gov.uk website for a total cost of £6 (very cheap compared to other ways) in November and have just heard it is complete and my certificate being printed.

I spoke to a friend that is an existing ADI and he is helping me a great deal by giving me access to his website for Hazard and Theory questions. As you can probably imagine, the test standard for an ADI is much higher than that for a normal driver and your theory includes questions regarding how to train a new pupil. This is called Part 1 (of 3 parts).

It is a 100 question multiple test requiring 85% pass mark and a minimum of 20 of 25 correct in each of the 4 sections to pass. So far I have taken 3 mock tests and score 95%+ in each so Feeling reasonably confident so far. Hazard Perception is the second part of the Theory (as I am sure you are aware), which involves watching fairly poor quality videos and flagging up hazards as they develop into something where you need to take action. There is a 5 second window to flag the hazard as it develops and points are awarded 5-4-3-2-1 as the time passes. You can't just randomly click as once you hit 6 clicks in 5 seconds you are disqualified from that clip. Having said all this, it is relatively straight forward, 14 clips in total, 13 with a single hazard and 1 clip with 2 hazards. My first run I score 85% with a required score of 76% (57 out of a possible 75 points).

As soon as my certificate comes back I will be booking this part for a cost of £83.

Part 2 is the Driving Test. This is like to a normal driving test but you are only allowed 3 attempts to become an ADI. The eyesight part is stricter than the normal test allowing for the fact that as an ADI you will need to be able to spot hazards earlier than your student. If you fail the eyesight test it will count as one of your 3 attempts so highly important you have a good sight test prior to your test rather than waste the £111 fee and the attempt!

Part 2 is passed if you make no more than 6 minor faults, I was feeling reasonably confident (my Bike test I only made 2 minors) for this part, thinking I would only require some minor tweaking to get to test standard, but that went out the window when I did my first lesson with my friendly ADI!

For those who have driven for years, the way in which they expect you to drive is very specific and the volume of mirror and corner checks of a certain type is very specific. I would have failed my test in the first 100 yards!

If you fail the part two 3 times, you have to retake Part one after a 2 year wait has elapsed.

If you pass you have 2 options, 1. Book your Part 3 Driving Instructor Test or 2. Apply for a Trainee Instructor Licence https://www.gov.uk/trainee-driving-instructor-licence-the-rules details here, which lasts 6 months and allows you to work as a Trainee and Earn money whilst getting valuable experience for the part 3. To apply for this licence you need to have done 40 hours of ADI training, this can include accompanying an existing ADI and working with them with one of their students, so is not too difficult to achieve if you have the time.

Part 3 is the ADI test where you will roleplay being a driving instructor with the examiner playing the part of 2 different students. The test costs £111 takes about 1 hours and covers:

  • core competencies
  • instructional techniques
  • instructor characteristics

The list of test centres where this can take place is quite restricted and your result will be a grade from 1-6. 1 being Extremely Poor or dangerous and 6 being Very High. (4 is Satisfactory).

If you pass then you have 12 months to apply for your Badge or you will have to take all 3 parts again. The badge costs £300, must be displayed on your windscreen whenever you are working and must be renewed every 12 months for a cost of £300. If it lapses then you have 12 months in which to renew it before you will need to retake your 3 parts!

I am hoping to qualify by June 2015, and will update my progress here.

Thanks for reading :)
 
Interesting reading. Something I'm considering giving a go myself in the future so nice to see how it's done. Good luck with your training :)
 
Very interesting, hope you do well.

How far are you wanting to go on this path? Just teaching 17 y/o's or doing advanced driving like your father?
 
So how much is it going to cost in total to get through everything required?

I went to one of those RED days when I was about 21 after finishing uni during the recession with 0 graduate jobs. Like you pointed out the initial cost just to get started was very pricey.

Good luck with your new career. If you apply yourself there is definitely money to be made.
 
I am always very skeptical as to whether driver instruction is financially viable.

Do the financials really stack up? I can never work it out.
 
Is it me or are those pass requirements disturbingly low? On things like theory and hazard perception I'd not have much faith in any instructor who couldnt score 100%
 
Im a IAM Driver. The thing that really puts me off going any further are:

"Most" are old people who think they clearly know better then anyone half their age! Most are out of touch with mechanical of a car totally.

Daft rules like you must block change coming to a stop (why cant I do 6-5-4-3-2-1? Its better for the car you could argue)

I had to do my Advanced driver for my job, However I got it years ago as I like to Volunteer my skills for "Blood running" to give back to the NHS after a bike accident. Im an advanced rider also. I would like to get into doing the same in the car, however the "Older out of touch" generation put me off. Yes cant judge everyone with same stick as my instructor was 72 years old and great, he actually had same views as me that the older people really do put the younger ones off. He used to teach important people anti terrorism driving techniques!
 
Is it me or are those pass requirements disturbingly low? On things like theory and hazard perception I'd not have much faith in any instructor who couldnt score 100%

My scores so far have been 97-98% I aim to get 100% when I take the actual test and many do.

Like everything you don't need to know everything, you just need to know where to find the answer, but I agree, you should be able to get 100% on the theory.

If you haven't seen the hazard perception videos they are very low quality so it can sometimes take a second to register dropping you 1 mark immediately, but again, I am hitting 97% on ALL the videos so far.

Lupolover

Block changes are recognition of the fact that brakes are so efficient now you don't need additional help from the gearbox to slow down, engine braking is only used to control speed when brakes are best avoided.

Frankly going down through the gears adds a additional wear to the mechanicals for no benefit when you can brake in the gear you are in and block change to the correct gear to move off.

Well done for doing your IAM, it is very thorough.

Costs for those who asked...

CRB Check £6
Theory Test £83
Part 2 £111
Part 3 £111
ADI badge £300
Lessons £25 per hour (reckon I will need 5-10 to get into the good habits)
Accompany another ADI (free)

Lessons income is around £25-30 per hour
Costs of car really depend on what you use. Having done my lessons in nearly new Fiesta, I was surprised at how horrible the clutch and brakes were to use smoothly, so I shall be using something older design that has more feel to the pedals.

The beauty of my current situation is that I work until 3pm so finish in perfect time to do after school driving lessons until I have enough work to give up my day job.
 
Lupolover

Block changes are recognition of the fact that brakes are so efficient now you don't need additional help from the gearbox to slow down, engine braking is only used to control speed when brakes are best avoided.

Frankly going down through the gears adds a additional wear to the mechanicals for no benefit when you can brake in the gear you are in and block change to the correct gear to move off.

Well done for doing your IAM, it is very thorough.

I didn't realize you were a transmission engineer :rolleyes:
I don't want to get into an argument but your lacking enough technical knowledge to comment on this. I appreciate this isnt true for all models but is for many. I know they want you to use Brakes for braking as I was told which is fair enough, but I like to always be on the most appropriate gear for the conditions, would you not agree that seems logical and safer? I didnt want to get into an argument which is all the IAM lot seem to do at these meetings, they call them discussions, however its always one sided if you ask me, even if over half the attendees are arguing it the other way.
 
I didn't realize you were a transmission engineer :rolleyes:
I don't want to get into an argument but your lacking enough technical knowledge to comment on this. I appreciate this isnt true for all models but is for many. I know they want you to use Brakes for braking as I was told which is fair enough, but I like to always be on the most appropriate gear for the conditions, would you not agree that seems logical and safer? I didnt want to get into an argument which is all the IAM lot seem to do at these meetings, they call them discussions, however its always one sided if you ask me, even if over half the attendees are arguing it the other way.

Don't confuse Roadcraft/Advanced Driving with mechanical sympathy.

Roadcraft - Right gear for the right speed and road conditions that provides you with the most response as might be required.

Absolutely NOTHING in Roadcraft speed and gear selection is orientated around mechanical sympathy.

Roadcraft teaches block changing because it is the most direct and appropriate way to change gear. One should never be changing gear until they are at the REQUIRED speed and KNOW what gear they want for that speed. Shifting from 5th to 4th then realising you actually need 2nd or 3rd is silly.

Block changing allows you to be in the correct gear at all times, but that's not to say every gear change is a block change. Road conditions might deem a 3rd to 2nd gear change for more flexibility suitable.

As for slowing to a stop, block changing is the most suitable way of doing this also.

Slow slow slow slow.....need to stop, clutch in - stop.
Slow slow slow slow.....can continue, clutch in, pick best gear - accelerate.

Both scenarios give the least amount of input for the correct result.

As for the topic of block changing and mechanical sympathy. There are a number of views regarding this. In my personal opinion they are as follows:

- Even syncromesh wear. A pointless endeavour in itself, they are designed and engineered to last and will, more than likely, outlive the car.

- Syncromesh wear SHOULD be a non-issue. Sustained gearchanging, as taught in Advanced Roadcraft, removes/lessens the need for syncromesh involvement in gear changes.

- When teaching learners the mechanical well-being of your vehicle is a total non issue. For things which you can easily implement sure, go for it IE - Not destroying the handbrake ratchet when pulling it up. For things which require more thought and input when learning (Sequential gear changes, sustained gear changes) and planning that is required of an Advanced driver then no, this is not achievable.
 
Roadcraft - Right gear for the right speed and road conditions that provides you with the most response as might be required.

Indeed. If you are slowing the car using the gearbox, then chances are, you're not in the appropriate gear to react if you need to. If you need some immediate power then you need to be in the best gear to give you that power.
 
I didn't realize you were a transmission engineer :rolleyes:
I don't want to get into an argument but your lacking enough technical knowledge to comment on this. I appreciate this isnt true for all models but is for many. I know they want you to use Brakes for braking as I was told which is fair enough, but I like to always be on the most appropriate gear for the conditions, would you not agree that seems logical and safer? I didnt want to get into an argument which is all the IAM lot seem to do at these meetings, they call them discussions, however its always one sided if you ask me, even if over half the attendees are arguing it the other way.

Right, so engaging the correct gear at the correct speed without using each individual gear, without engaging the clutch 4 times instead of 1, leaving the engine using no fuel rather than fuel every time you put your foot on the clutch pedal is worse for the car than going through every gear?

YOU'RE lacking in English as well as technical knowledge, and if you just applied a little thought you wouldn't need the technical knowledge either.

Synchromesh wear is a non issue if you change gear correctly as making one change at 15 mph does less wear than going through every gear and then engaging the correct gear at 15 mph. You are acting as if one is trying to change from 5th to 1st at 40mph and then waiting for the car to slow down before lifting the clutch. Most Transmission wear is on the selector forks and clutch not the synchromesh.

You have zero knowledge of my technical knowledge so I would stop right there before you make a bigger muppet of yourself. :rolleyes:
 
Don't confuse Roadcraft/Advanced Driving with mechanical sympathy.

Roadcraft - Right gear for the right speed and road conditions that provides you with the most response as might be required.

Absolutely NOTHING in Roadcraft speed and gear selection is orientated around mechanical sympathy.

Roadcraft teaches block changing because it is the most direct and appropriate way to change gear. One should never be changing gear until they are at the REQUIRED speed and KNOW what gear they want for that speed. Shifting from 5th to 4th then realising you actually need 2nd or 3rd is silly.

Block changing allows you to be in the correct gear at all times, but that's not to say every gear change is a block change. Road conditions might deem a 3rd to 2nd gear change for more flexibility suitable.

As for slowing to a stop, block changing is the most suitable way of doing this also.

Slow slow slow slow.....need to stop, clutch in - stop.
Slow slow slow slow.....can continue, clutch in, pick best gear - accelerate.

Both scenarios give the least amount of input for the correct result.

As for the topic of block changing and mechanical sympathy. There are a number of views regarding this. In my personal opinion they are as follows:

- Even syncromesh wear. A pointless endeavour in itself, they are designed and engineered to last and will, more than likely, outlive the car.

- Syncromesh wear SHOULD be a non-issue. Sustained gearchanging, as taught in Advanced Roadcraft, removes/lessens the need for syncromesh involvement in gear changes.

- When teaching learners the mechanical well-being of your vehicle is a total non issue. For things which you can easily implement sure, go for it IE - Not destroying the handbrake ratchet when pulling it up. For things which require more thought and input when learning (Sequential gear changes, sustained gear changes) and planning that is required of an Advanced driver then no, this is not achievable.

Spot on.
 
*deleted the long post here as this isn't the place for this*

Sorry OP.
 
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Dr Who - thanks for the write up. Good luck, and do keep us updated :)
 
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Dr Who

If you pass then you have 12 months to apply for your Badge or you will have to take all 3 parts again. The badge costs £300, must be displayed on your windscreen whenever you are working and must be renewed every 12 months for a cost of £300. If it lapses then you have 12 months in which to renew it before you will need to retake your 3 parts!

I think you're only partly correct in that the initial fee is £300, but once you apply for your green badge it is valid for 4 years. (Assuming you pass your check test which will probably be within 12-18 months of qualifying.)

I've given it up now but until 2012 did the ADI bit myself. Training wise it's worth seeking out a PAYG independent trainer, rather than one of the big names. In your case would not your father give you a grounding in the fundamentals and save you a few quid? If it's not already been mentioned get yourself a copy of the latest issue of 'The driving instructors Handbook' it covers the PST's in depth, you'll need to know them inside out to pass part 3. It will also help you generate your own lesson plans.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the correct way to change gear. The method ADI's should be teaching is 'block changing' however your pupils won't fail the test for using sequential changes either.

Good luck with it, most people thoroughly enjoy the training.
 
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Dr Who



I think you're only partly correct in that the initial fee is £300, but once you apply for your green badge it is valid for 4 years. (Assuming you pass your check test which will probably be within 12-18 months of qualifying.)

I've given it up now but until 2012 did the ADI bit myself. Training wise it's worth seeking out a PAYG independent trainer, rather than one of the big names. In your case would not your father give you a grounding in the fundamentals and save you a few quid? If it's not already been mentioned get yourself a copy of the latest issue of 'The driving instructors Handbook' it covers the PST's in depth, you'll need to know them inside out to pass part 3. It will also help you generate your own lesson plans.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the correct way to change gear. The method ADI's should be teaching is 'block changing' however your pupils won't fail the test for using sequential changes either.

Good luck with it, most people thoroughly enjoy the training.

You are spot on with the ADI badge, my mistake when I wrote it :)

My Father is living in Cyprus now and his vision is too poor to carry on driving but he has given me lots of advice.

I will order the ADI handbook, good advice thanks.
 
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