My stock Ryzen cooler is stuck

masto · 8 Oct 2021 at 13:14

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone has any advice for me.

I have a Ryzen 1600 that's been running for around 4 years. I installed the stock cooler, with whatever paste/pad it came with at the time. Recently, I've wanted to replace the cooler with something quieter, as it has been getting noisier over time. Problem is, I cannot get the existing cooler to move at all.

I've tried running prime for an hour to heat things up, but the cooler just won't budge. I've tried twisting it / sliding it, but it doesn't move and I'm worried I'm going to apply too much force and rip the CPU out of the socket.

Anyone had a similar experience who could share how they got around the problem?

Cheers.

throwaway4372 · 8 Oct 2021 at 13:22

you've tried all the smart things, now you either leave it or risk it

Armageus · 8 Oct 2021 at 13:26

As long as you've tried to heat the chip up there isn't really any more you can do.

Just lay the case on it's side (so that the weight of the cooler can't accidentally fall and pull the chip out) and then basically follow AMD's instructions.

Release the cam lever, unhook the retaining clips, and then try to twist the cooler backwards and forwards a few times.

https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/cpu-7

Haz123 · 8 Oct 2021 at 14:12

If you do dmg the pins getting it out then it is a good excuse to upgrade to a 3600.

masto · 8 Oct 2021 at 14:51

Thanks for the comments, all. Think I'll give it one more go, after running it maxed out for a while again. Any issue with removing the backplate / loosening the retaining screws, then laying it horizontally and firing up prime? Stops things cooling while I spend time disconnecting things, which may mean it comes off.

(the cooler is the one with screws and a backplate, not clips)

Haz123 said:
If you do dmg the pins getting it out then it is a good excuse to upgrade to a 3600.

I was thinking a new motherboard too, in the event of damage, which would mean a 5600X, which would then mean new RAM.

Armageus · 8 Oct 2021 at 15:07

masto said:
Thanks for the comments, all. Think I'll give it one more go, after running it maxed out for a while again. Any issue with removing the backplate / loosening the retaining screws, then laying it horizontally and firing up prime?

Yep should be fine - just keep an eye on temperatures (due to it not being tensioned by the screws), and on it suddenly popping loose if the thermal paste's bond is released (but again should be fine with it lying down)

masto · 8 Oct 2021 at 17:14

Well, I ran it for 100 minutes at 54 degrees with the screws loosened, turned it off, and immediately tried twisting the cooler. Still wouldn't budge.

Looks like I'm stuck with it permanently. Never had thermal paste act like glue before.

Joxeon · 8 Oct 2021 at 18:12

Attach a Gclamp to the cooler as that should give you more leverage.

masto · 8 Oct 2021 at 18:23

Joxeon said:
Attach a Gclamp to the cooler as that should give you more leverage.

Wouldn't that just rip the CPU out of the socket? I could have used more force with just my hand, but didn't as I was concerned I'd end up breaking something.

Quartz · 8 Oct 2021 at 18:47

masto said:
Well, I ran it for 100 minutes at 54 degrees with the screws loosened,

Try it without the fan plugged in, so you get the thermal compound good and hot. You won't need anywhere near 100 mins, though!

Joxeon · 8 Oct 2021 at 18:56

masto said:
Wouldn't that just rip the CPU out of the socket? I could have used more force with just my hand, but didn't as I was concerned I'd end up breaking something.

Just use it to twist rather than pulling.

Drumroll · 9 Oct 2021 at 17:14

Joxeon said:
Just use it to twist rather than pulling.

This.
Gently twisting may do, but I would try using a hairdryer in case the chip is not getting hot enough to allow the thermal paste/compound to soften.

drakulton · 9 Oct 2021 at 17:25

As twisting the cooler isn't loosening it from the CPU, then your only alternative is to pull the cooler and CPU out in one go. The socket contacts operated by the tension arm are not strong enough to do any damage to the CPU pins. Then you just have to separate the CPU from the cooler, which will be a much easier job.

Armageus · 9 Oct 2021 at 17:53

Fishing line between the cooler and CPU might work, personally id try and separate them first, as removing it from the cooler if you get it out the socket, will be more difficult without bending any pins

Purgatory · 9 Oct 2021 at 17:54

You could try slipping a credit card between the cooler and cpu gently to release it.

masto · 10 Oct 2021 at 11:13

Tried running it without the fan connected and got it up to 90C. Still no movement at all. I am twisting, not pulling.

Think I'll just leave it as is.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

The Old School Gamer · 10 Oct 2021 at 11:36

drakulton said:
As twisting the cooler isn't loosening it from the CPU, then your only alternative is to pull the cooler and CPU out in one go. The socket contacts operated by the tension arm are not strong enough to do any damage to the CPU pins. Then you just have to separate the CPU from the cooler, which will be a much easier job.

I have done just this a few times now with no damage.
Pull straight up slowly applying more and more force till it just pops off.
That white crap on the wraith's is like glue, I always wipe it off and apply a line of MX instead.

masto · 10 Oct 2021 at 13:21

Great, I'll take that approach when it comes to me having to remove it.

And I won't be using the pre-applied stuff again, that's for sure.