Nada, Zilch on pressing power on button. Gigabyte B550 Gaming X V2 w/ Ryzen 5 5600X

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**EDIT/UPDATE 2: Fixed**

Hi there,

I'm posting on here for the first time, although I have found this community extremely helpful when searching for specific problems and solutions to computer issues. Please bear with me in case I have missed anything, thank you kindly in advance for your assistance :)

A friend of mine has asked me to assist with a computer his son was building. His son doesn't really know what he's doing - got thermal paste all over everything, including the PSU** (which I didn't know at first), and tried to put an AMD CPU in a MATX Intel socket motherboard. So, his dad, my friend, ordered a new ATX case (Coolermaster MasterBox MB511), and motherboard (Gigabyte B550 Gaming X V2 Rev 1.3). I put everything together. I press the Power On switch, nothing.

There were a few, maybe 4 bent pins on the CPU, and I have a feeling this may be something to do with it. However, I would imagine that the PC would at least whirr up the fans or display some sign of life. I had used a thin plastic card to gently ply the pins back to normal position, and it inserted into the socket nicely.

It was at this stage that I noticed the thermal paste in the PSU (it had fallen in through the fan and was bedded on ICs). It's a shame because it was a nice CoolerMaster 650W PSU.**

Anyhow, I had a spare OCZ Stealth 500W PSU in the box gathering dust in the spare room (got this many moons ago, I just realised it was first released in 2007). Swap it out, the 12V ATX connector doesn't reach. So, ordered a 24cm 4-pin to 8-pin adapter from eBay. It arrived today.

So, I wired up everything correctly, I press the power button, nada. Nothing at all, no sound, no fan moving, nothing. The only sound is when I plug the power lead into the PSU with the switch at the "I" (ON) position, the crackling of the terminals contacting, so I know the power lead is carrying power to the PSU. I almost always plug it in switched to "O" (OFF).

I tried shorting the Power Switch jumper on the motherboard, nothing, no luck. That's with and without the reset switch jumper connected.

I also tried the paper-clip test with the PSU, after disconnecting it from all the components, it powers up nicely as expected.

There's no power/status indicator LED on the motherboard.

I'm going to try reseating all of the components, breadboarding, when I have the time to do so carefully.

Short from reseating everything, I don't know what else to do. I only found out recently that building the Mobo, CPU, RAM and GPU out of the case is a good idea - I had never known or tried this before. So while I have built several machines from parts, I missed out on some of the basic know how when I was younger. I found some "not reaching POST" guides I'm going to try.

Everything is connected and looks correct. I'm not sure what to do at this stage, other than retry components one by one, and failing that, return the motherboard as a faulty component.

Here's a list of the components:

Case: CoolerMaster MasterBox MB511
PSU: MWE 650 White 230V - V2
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Gaming X V2 (Rev 1.3)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
RAM: Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4 3200 MHz C16 XMP 2.0
GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060
HDD: Seagate 1TB HDD

Edit/Update:
**PSU - is this caulk/silicone? I've never seen this before but
just found a thread detailing this.

again, zero activity when pressing the power button, shorting the power switch headers, and the PSU works with paperclip test.


Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Tom.
 
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Just boot it up outside the case as you suggested, don't bother plugging in any drives. 1 stick of RAM.
Also try a CMOS reset.

Note in my experience it could be either CPU or Mobo causing this. Given the cpu pins were bent I wouldn't bank on simply returning the mobo as fixing it.
 
Just boot it up outside the case as you suggested, don't bother plugging in any drives. 1 stick of RAM.
Also try a CMOS reset.

Note in my experience it could be either CPU or Mobo causing this. Given the cpu pins were bent I wouldn't bank on simply returning the mobo as fixing it.
Thank you. I've never had this issue before. Is it normal for absolutely no activity (no fans whirring, no sound or activity whatsoever) to be caused by an issue with CPU, when everything is wired up correctly? Cheers. I will try the breadboarding following the guides I have found.
 
It's not "normal" but I've had it before. I once replaced a motherboard assuming it must be dead and then found out it was the CPU.

It's one of those things I'm surprised hasn't been improved over the years, better diagnostics for CPU issues, i.e. the ability for the motherboard to present diagnostic LEDs or whatever in cases where the mobo is OK but the CPU isn't.

Do you have another GPU you can test it with, a 15 year old 500W PSU might be struggling with a 5600X / RTX GPU (although I'd expect it to work).
 
Thank you. I've never had this issue before. Is it normal for absolutely no activity (no fans whirring, no sound or activity whatsoever) to be caused by an issue with CPU, when everything is wired up correctly? Cheers. I will try the breadboarding following the guides I have found.

If the cpu is not seated in the socket correctly then the mobo will think there is no cpu at all and you will see exactly what you are experiencing. I bent the pins on a 5900x and I had exactly this behaviour until i repaired it. That cpu would also not work in an X570s mobo but does work perfectly well in a B550 mobo I had available so even if you think they are repaired there are tiny tolerances we cannot see.

I would suggest you take the cpu out and recheck all the pins are perfectly aligned, my eyesight is not great and I needed a magnifying glass to do this part. You should be taking the mobo out anyway to rebuild it on a box so no great hardship. Reset cmos, 1 stick of ram and try with other components is the only real option I am afraid. Your issue could be cpu , mobo or psu and we jsut do not know.
 
If the son is as lacking in knowledge and skills as you suggest then he might also not have handled the motherboard carefully. Give it a good inspection to see if there is any visible damage, especially surface mount component missing - they are not too difficult to knock of with bad handling.
 
And the psu paperclip test
Only tells you the psu isn't totally dead
It doesn't guarantee the psu will actually function as intended
That ocz psu must be 15 years old too
Given they bent some pins the cpu would be main suspect
But can't rule out the psu if it's been unused for years
You wouldn't know if it's fully functional

As said breadboard it in case its a short or something
Try without the cpu in too
Some modern motherboards can power on without cpus
Really you need to be able to test the cpu in
Another pc
Probably test the psu will turn on another pc as well
 
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Thank you all, the OCZ PSU is a spare that I brought out to test whether the original PSU (CoolerMaster 650W) was the culprit.
So, it's looking like it may well be the CPU (or the motherboard, although the motherboard is BNIB delivered to me).
Thanks everyone for your helpful advice.
 
My PC doesn't turn on without some fiddiling. Basically the power button doesnt turn on the PC. I need to flip the PSU switch several times and extremely slow, and to the point where there is sound of the current which triggers the PC to start. I think there may be a grouding issues, theres so many cables on the otherside of the case that something is not allowing it to start by pressing the power button. Anyway I have to do this basically every time lol hence why I'm upgrading now, after 11 years.
 
My PC doesn't turn on without some fiddiling. Basically the power button doesnt turn on the PC. I need to flip the PSU switch several times and extremely slow, and to the point where there is sound of the current which triggers the PC to start. I think there may be a grouding issues, theres so many cables on the otherside of the case that something is not allowing it to start by pressing the power button. Anyway I have to do this basically every time lol hence why I'm upgrading now, after 11 years.
*it it may be the case
 
Hi folks,

I got the PC working by breadboarding it :)

So, it turned out that the CPU was not seated in the motherboard slot correctly. When I removed the HS, the CPU came with it :/

I managed to bend the pins back into place using a razor blade and a thin bank card, and get it seated in the slot nice and flush. I was then able to boot to the BIOS.

650W Coolermaster PSU was not the culprit. It looked like thermal paste hot gotten in there, but the case of the PSU was immaculate, and I believe it is PSU caulk/silicone.

Thank you



 
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I am glad you got it fixed in the end. When taking heatsinks off I rotate clockwise and anti clockwise a few time to help heat up the thermal paste and it normally come off easier then. I have ripped cpu out of the socket as well , live and learn and I am glad no permanent dmg was done.
 
think its some sort of epoxy
rated for high temperatures
reduce coil whine,give components extra support
stop components touching each other etc

and yeah i run the pc for a bit
lets the thermal paste warm up a bit
then as said i never just pull the heatsink upwards
twisting motion to break the seal between cpu and heatsink

main thing is you got it sorted :)
 
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