found this link if its any good to anyone ?
Asus P5N32-E Overclocking guide
As the FAQ's seem to be down, I'll post this here:
Online Reviews:
http://www.digital-daily.com/motherb...s_p5n32_e_sli/
(They hit 500 FSB easily in their tests)
http://cdr-info.com/Sections/Reviews...rticleId=19557
(They hit 480 FSB)
Asus P5N32-E Overclocking guide
After posting about 300 times with various settings for forummers, it came to mind that an FAQ would help answer basic questions about this board.
My setup: I have tested the settings listed below on this board with an Intel C2D E6700 (Retail) and an Intel C2D X6800 (again retail). With two different sets of ram. Corsair C5 8500 2 x 1 GB Twin2X and the OCZ SLI Ready PC2-8500 2 x 1 GB.
My board is listed as revision 1.1 and I have tested all of the bios revisions. I am currently using the newest release (non-beta) 1002.
Edit: Apparently, the new bios revision has fixed vdroop in relation to ntune. In other words, the vcore you set in the bios matches exactly in what ntune reads. Prior, it was off by as much as .04 or higher.
A few points about the board before going into overclocking:
The Asus board hasn’t been subject to many of the issues that the reference 680i boards (EVGA, BFG, etc) have such as PS2 keyboard issues, sata RAID issues and so on. It has had issues with X-FI sound cards and SLI’d 8800 series GPU’s. This was resolved in bios update 0602. Bear in mind as well that it does not apply to any sound card other than the X-FI series. (for example my, Creative Audigy 2 ZS, had no sound issues whatsoever regardless of bios version).
Use 1002 bios. Do not use 0702 or 0802 under any circumstances. The original bios 0302 was stable but had vcore lock issues at high FSB and sound issues with X-FI as mentioned above. 0602 resolved the sound issues but still had some limitations regarding VCORE lock. 0702 and 0802 were beta and very buggy. 0902 despite being beta was very stable and also provided full VCORE unlock regardless of FSB. 1002 is the non-beta revision that adds a few small tweaks. Its very stable and has produced no errors so far.
Also note that bios 1002 has permanently removed the linkboost feature. Further proof that it never worked properly.
Do not use the Asus Updater in Windows! It is politely a POS. The best way to bios flash this board is to out the bios on a usb memory stick, go into the bios, run ez-flash and update from there. It has worked every time for me and is the safest method. Also, always restore your bios to default settings, save and reboot before flashing bios. A number of users on the Asus forums had issues with OC’d bios when flashing.
The Northbridge and Southbridge on the 680i boards get very very hot. The passive heatpipe cooling on the the motherboard is fine for stock settings and even mild overclocks. If you want anything resembling stability at high overclocks, you will need aftermarket cooling.
I have personally mounted a pair of Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II coolers on my board with excellent results.
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...gor y_Code=40
Thermalright also makes chipset coolers, the Thermalright HR-05-SLI Chipset Cooler. Both provide excellent cooling.
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...gor y_Code=40
Edit: Added that works is the Jing Ting Force Chipset Cooler
http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/re...ingting&file=1
(Thanks to Alex for testing this).
I am also now using two sets of Swifttech MC-21 Aluminum Mosfet Heatsinks on the exposed VRM's. I measured these and they fit precisely.
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...gor y_Code=40
Important to note is if you mount an aftermarket cooler on your SB, you will limit the length of card you can mount in the center PCI slot (The only one you can use for a sound card if you have SLI’d anything.) With the Thermaltake, mounted as far away from the slot as possible while still allowing space for a pair of 8800GTX, I have exactly 150mm of clearance length. That is not long enough to fit any of the X-FI cards from Creative. An excellent alternative recommended to me is the Bluegears B-Enspirer Sound Card. It has sound comparable or better than the S-FI gamer and is only 146mm long. Its coming soon so I’ll update with it’s performance.
This board likes clean power with very little ripple. I had some issues with a Silverstone Zeus 750W that worked but was unstable. A change to a much more stable Enermax resolved instability issues with the board immediately.
SLI Ready Memory (also known as Enhanced Performance Profiles or EPP). This is a tool all the 680i boards share. In a nutshell, certain sets of ram have an extra chip that contains overclocking profiles based on factory testing of RAM with these boards. What this will allow you to do, is to auto overclock your ram without manually changing settings up to a factory recommended standard. You can squeeze more performance out of the ram by doing the settings manually but for first timers, its a handy tool.
Corsair and OCZ both have a number of kits that are designated SLI Ready or EPP ready. In the bios on the Extreme Tweaker screen, there is a setting for SLI Ready Memory. Simply go to it, select, 0% Overclock, save reboot and you will see the ram overclocked.
1T RAM Timings: What makes the 680i boards different from the intel chipsets is that it is very easy to get 1T timings to run on ram. I’ve tested as have others. RAM running at 80Mhz with tight timings (4-4-4-8 for example) and at 1T is faster in bandwidth tests than ram running at 5-5-5-15, 1067 MHz and 2T.
This board does not report vcore correctly in PC Probe. Currently the only program close to correct is Everest Ultimate beta 3.80. download the 30 day free trial from Lavasys to get you up and running. You can take readings in the bios but they reflect 70% of load without any signifigant voltage draw from the gpu.
Important!: Always set ram voltage manually upon first boot. This board undervolts memory from factory settings when left to auto. For example, my ram is rated stock at 2.1 Volts. The auto setting had it running at 1.89. Even though my system ran fine, I had occasional crashes until I changed the volts to 2.1 manually.
Worse, many types of ram will not work correctly with this board if they are undervolted. If the system will not boot on initial build, try one stick in the slot closest to the cpu until it boots and enter the bios. Immediately change the ram voltage to defaults for the memory you are using. Save,shut down, install the rest of your ram and then reboot normally.
On to the Overclocking.
Here are the things you need to turn off in the bios before beginning:
Extreme Tweaker Screen:
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disable it (Known to cause issues)
Linkboost: Disable it (Known to cause issues) (No longer available in bios 1002)
Spread Spectrum Control: Disable all of them
Execute Disable Bit: Disable it
Virtualization Technology: Disable it
Enhanced Intel Speedstep: Disable it
Enhanced C1 (C1E): Disable it
Legacy USB Support: Disable it
HPET: Disable it
I would recommend a SATA burner if you are switching as then you can disable all of the IDE channels (Speeds up boot up times signifigantly)
Extreme Tweaker Main Screen:
(Image #1)
The most important items here are noted.
As mentioned above, Disable Nvidia GPU Ex and Linkboost
(Image #2)
System Clocks Screen
FSB and Memory Config Screen
(Image #3)
You can set FSB and Memory Clocks speeds independently by choosing unlinked. If you choose auto it will set your FSB at 800 MHZ defaut and up it to match your CPU FSB overclocks.
If you choose Linked, then you can set a ratio for your RAM in conjunction with your cpu overclock in synchronized mode.
The ratios:
1:1 This will run memory at the same frequency as the FSB. It is the DDR2 1000 dividier. This is hard to get stable depending on the ram you use.
5:4 This is the DDR2 800 memory divider
3:2 This is the DDR2 667 memory divider
Overclocking Screen
(Image #4)
Here is where you can change your CPU multi and disable some useless items.
Tests have shown that the 680i board runs fasters with a higher multi. So a high multi and low FSB is better than a low multi and high FSB. This board with do 500 FSB easily. It really depends on your chip. If you are running an E6300, 7x500 is the way to go. If you are running an E6600 or E6700, then keep the multi and stock and up the FSB until you max out.
I personally disable Execute Disable Bit and Virtualization Technology as from what I have read they do little to nothing on your PC.
Memory Timing Settings
(Image #5)
As mentioned above, tight timings at 1T are consistently faster than loose settings at high clock and 2T.
Over Voltage Screen
(Image #6 next post)
CPU VTT is the most important setting for stable overclocks. The CPU VTT Voltage sets the CPU termination voltage, allowing for a 1.55V maximum. Using this voltage in combination with the CPU VCore voltage setting can greatly enhance the system stability while overclocked. The system memory reference voltage is split between settings, the controller reference voltage and one option each for the two memory channels. In all cases, the base reference voltage can be set to a maximum of .03V over half of the set memory voltage. (Taken from HardOCP)
"In summary, the CPU VTT controls the CPU termination voltage. Based on Kirmie's observations, it reduces the number of false electrical signals by providing a form of "ground" to pull out these false currents. ." (Credit to Kirmie for the find) My experience with this board is that the max setting (1.55) provides the best results. I have not had a single crash or temperature variation as a result.
