Hello all, I currently use a combination of Microsoft ICE and photoshop to do panorama stiches (only just started). The proplem is that the images I get have a sort of 'fish eye' curvy effect. Is there a way to, i believe the correct term is, warp the image to make it straight? I've been gogling but cannot find a solution. Thanks in advance
Need some help with panorama stitching
- Thread starter Temi_D
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If you go to 1 hr 55 minutes in this video Scott Kelby explains how to avoid this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=66ll4Jo3dLM#!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=66ll4Jo3dLM#!
Well, the idea is that you're trying to keep the lens in the same place and move your body around. As if the front of the glass of the lens is on a rotational pivot, but is anchored to one spot about which the body (and you) have to turn. He's getting away with the 3-shot move, 3-shot move, 3-shot move manoeuvre because it's landscape and so the bow tie effect isn't that noticeable. But for pannos of interiors, I've seen special panno tripod heads that enable the body to swing out and rotate such that the glass of the lens constantly remains above the centre of the tripod.
EDIT: actually here's a wikipedia article on it, and correction, it's the pupil of the lens, not the front glass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panoramic_tripod_head
So for interior shots, it's more important to have precision so the tripod head is highly beneficial. But for outdoor landscape, you can just do it by hand and it will take care of that effect.
Here's a cheaper non-robotic version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-360-Swi...ltDomain_0&hash=item4cfdf53f26#ht_6332wt_1139
So for interior shots, it's more important to have precision so the tripod head is highly beneficial. But for outdoor landscape, you can just do it by hand and it will take care of that effect.
Here's a cheaper non-robotic version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-360-Swi...ltDomain_0&hash=item4cfdf53f26#ht_6332wt_1139
Its all to do with Nodal Points and the Parallax effect.
Put simply if you don't pivot the camera directly over the nodal point of the lens you're going to get images that don't quite line up correctly.
Think of it as a 'balancing point' for the lens.
If you position the nodal point directly above your point of rotation, then each shot will exhibit no parallax and will join up better.
This is quite a good little video that shows how it can be set up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jAh...Ws&annotation_id=annotation_622897&feature=iv
Wouldn't it be nice (as the Beachboys used to sing) if we could have a list of the Nodal points of popular lenses? Well here's one that someone else prepared earlier
http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database
Put simply if you don't pivot the camera directly over the nodal point of the lens you're going to get images that don't quite line up correctly.
Think of it as a 'balancing point' for the lens.
If you position the nodal point directly above your point of rotation, then each shot will exhibit no parallax and will join up better.
This is quite a good little video that shows how it can be set up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jAh...Ws&annotation_id=annotation_622897&feature=iv
Wouldn't it be nice (as the Beachboys used to sing) if we could have a list of the Nodal points of popular lenses? Well here's one that someone else prepared earlier
http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database
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