New Open Loop Build - Hot GPU (4090 FE)

bthitman

bthitman

bthitman

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Similar to @0121danwilliams84 's thread (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...rature-o11d-evo-reflection-2-distro.18972103/) about high temps. I didn't want to hi-jack that thread though!

I think I know the answer, but I want to ask to be sure.

What I think the answer is:
I think I need to fit the 360mm 30mm rad I have. Even though it's getting cramped in the case!

This is my first open loop build. Specs are:

- Hyte Y40 case
- 7800X3D (EKWB CPU block)
- Nvidia 4090 FE (EKWB GPU block)
- Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR 240 (https://hardwarelabs.com/hwlmain/nemesis/gtr/gtr-240/)
(55mm thick)
(which claims to have a capacity of 1100W)
- Lian-Li UNI AL 120 V2 fans

I have 4 fans on the GTR 240, in push-pull config. I also have 3 fans as intake from the top of the case, 1 intake from the bottom, and 1 more exhausting at the rear.

The GPU is running hot :( I ran the 3DMark Speedway stress test (20min) to get the GPU up to temp and stabilised. Results below.

StateAmbientGPUCPUWater
Idle23.7355136
After 20min stress test24.2697055

HWInfo states that the GPU was drawing about 430W during the test. And the GPU hotspot temp is about 8-10 degrees hotter than the core temp.

I also have a Harware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 (30mm thick) that I *might* be a able to fit, but if I do get it in there, I will only be able to mount two fans to it (the third fan would interfere with the reservoir)

I will post pictures tomorrow, and my fan and pump profiles, if that will help.

Thanks!
 
Yea... I think I was fooled by marketing! :cry: They made it sound like: 'this rad, being almost 60mm thick, and a double-pass, is like having 2x 240mm 30mm thick rads back-to-back!' So I thought 'great. 480mm of cooling. that should work' (facepalm)

*sigh* At least I haven't stripped my old PC yet! I'll need it whilst I'll drain the loop, order more hardline and fittings, and squish that 360mm in there as well

I was trying to do something a bit different with using a Hyte Y40 for this - but perhaps going down the route of 'another O11-D build' for my first open loop might have been a better option! :cry:
 
therealdippy said:
Interesting how the CPU reached 70C and the GPU reached 69C and you were only concerned about the GPU temperature!
Both CPU and GPU can run fine at high temperatures. You only need to worry about if they hit the clock throttle threshold because that will hit performance.
However I do agree with @Mcthommo that you need to be careful with water temperature in case it affects any of the components in the loop. The metal parts will be fine as long as expansion doesn't cause something to move, but you should ensure that the fittings and pipes are rated for high water temps.

FYI I have a HW labs black ice SR2 420 which is 60mm thick, but I also have an Alphacool XT45 420 and an Alphacool XT45 140, both 45mm thick. That's so that I can limit my water to 40C max and have a relatively low fan speed for quietness.
Click to expand...
I probably shouldn't write posts after midnight! Yes, the GPU temp is high (for me - I was hoping for mid to high 50's) but it's the overall loop temp (water at 55, and sometimes higher!) is a concern.

As for the CPU at 70 - It is a 7800X3D, which I'm sure has a target operating temp of 90-100 degrees. So 70 (for me) is pretty good.
EDIT: the CPU at idle is about 50-52, so a delta of 20 degrees under load sounds ok (I guess!)

Thanks for the comparison! I'll experiment a bit with this build, and if still not happy, I might have to go with a different case and more cooling!
 
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Mcnumpty2323 said:
Be interesting how they tested that 1100w claim
That's the thing with numbers
Unless the exact methodology is given
You can claim just about anything

Online figures seem to vary
As to how hot before a risk of hard Tubing
Deformation
55c coolant is pretty toasty though
Yet to hit 40c on mine
Even on the hottest day this year
30--31c over ambient Isnt something i
would like to see my coolant at
And Unless you have air con
That ambient could get quite a bit hotter
Did you use inserts in the tubing?
Click to expand...
Good points. I don't know the thresholds for the tubing, or the pump/reservoir. Never expected to be in the situation that I would need to worry about it! :cry:
No A/C in this room. Just windows and a fan if I need. The ambient did go up a degree during the test, clearly from the PC pumping the heat into the room.

"Inserts in tubing"? not something I'm familiar with, or know about. Can you enlighten me?
 
Thanks all. Yea, @Mcnumpty2323 I feel your last comments are correct!

1) I'm using PMMA (Corsair Hydro X Series XT Hardline)
2) Yes, the whole loop is too hot, and not safe for the pump or the fittings, or the tubing :)

I was really trying to do something different and unique with this build. HOWEVER, maybe (clearly?) I bit off more than I could chew for my first build :cry:

So I have scrapped it (it's still a great case! And would do air-cooling / AIO very well!) and I'm going to go down the route of 'the simplest answer is most often the best.' For my first (re-?)build of open loop, I'll pick up an O11-D case. Start again. And will give me the opportunity to maximise rad coverage.

Just goes to show that no matter how much research is done, there is no substitution for experience!

Whilst I'm frustrated that my plan didn't pan out; I'm still enjoying this new hobby.

I don't think I can fit an O11-D EVO in my space, so will go with the original model. Just need to research what will fit! The EKWB for the 4090 FE says it's 155mm tall - need to make sure that will fit in the O11-D. And also check how thick a rad I can put in each location. Etc. Etc.

Will keep this thread posted!
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
We live and learn
All of us old timers at watercooling
We made mistakes along the way too
Probably more mistakes than you
Way back then we had no forums no youtube etc
Far less parts were available
So a lot of our stuff was primitive by today's standard

Main thing is this has given you
Some experience
Which as you correctly said nothing substitutes
For hands on practice
And even more importantly
You accept you got something wrong
And will adapt from that
And we are all here if you're unsure about something :)
Click to expand...
Too kind! These past couple of hours, I have been digging up more and more info (on measurements mostly!) Looks like a 4090 EKWB water block will NOT fit an O11-D (in horizontal)
4090 in O11-D EVO -> "Essentially, most 4090 RTX with water blocks don’t fit O11D and barely fit O11 Evo."

So now not sure what to do!

1) O11-D, with a vertical mount? But then can't mount a rad on the bottom (unless it's mega-thin, and thin profile fans!)
2) O11-D EVO and source an adapter for the GPU power, so the cable is not crammed up against the glass

The cost of an O11-D + vertical mount is MORE than an EVO :cry: But an EVO is just that little bit wider that it makes it awkward for where it fits in my desk setup. (*sigh* 1st-world problems, eh?! :cry:)

Thoughts? At this point, I'm leaning towards EVO. Just getting the system up and running again, and dealing with the physical size of the case...
 
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Mcnumpty2323 said:
Luckily for me
I don't have any constraints
As to size of case I can use
Currently an 011d xl
But have had full towers before
Like enthoo primo,enthoo luxe v1 and enthoo 719
I do like phanteks cases
So would look see if phanteks have anything of the
Dimensions you need
Nv7 probably too big though
Nv5 not sure how soon will be available to buy
But they have loads of models

Of your 2 choices
Probably the evo as should be able
To get gpu power adapters
Though would obviously make sure of that before buying
Click to expand...
Ah! I had kinda stayed away from full-tower; but you enticed me to go have another look. My restriction (limitation) is to do with width, and the N7 is very narrow! (But very tall). The width is great for my location, and the height I think I can deal with. The length might be an issue.

So I will order one to see how it fits for me. And if it works, then I guess that's a great solution! There's even a picture on the Phanteks page that shows a mock-up of one of my ideas! Using an EKWB FLT 240 on the back of the case.

Thanks for the tip.
 
UPDATE -> I think the new (re) build is coming along! The NV7 case is huge inside! I have a delivery arriving today: 2 more 360 44mm thick rads. (the one in the pic is a 360x30mm) Reservoir, tubing. Once I get the rads and fans and reservoir in situ, I can then assess exactly what fittings I'll need (I made the mistake last time of 'picturing the loop in my head' and buying a bunch of fittings that never worked, or didn't need. Then had to buy the right ones! :cry: )

For sure better to scale things back for my first (well, second now) open loop build. Instead of trying to be brave and creative and 'make things work' in a case that didn't suit the cooling needs of my hardware.

Thanks again for the direction and guidance! Will post pics as the build progresses.

https://flic.kr/p/2oQNBjP
 
Well, it's all built up finally!! (Pictures to follow soon) For sure there are some good things and not so good, and things i would do differently, but happier with this build! (compared to the cramped under-cooled Y40 case build...) Initial tests look good. Ran a quick stress test on the GPU, and it topped out at 50-52, with hot spots about 7 degrees hotter. And water temp around 32-34.

One concern, and maybe people have experience with this? In the previous build, I was using a Corsair XD5 reservoir / pump (With a D5 pump). Now I have an EKWB FLT240 reservoir / pump (also with a D5)

With the Corsair, I could run the pump down to 30% with no issues. With the EKWB, if I set the pump to run at anything under 80%, it makes a lot of 'rattling' noises. If I can figure out a way to upload a video of it, I will!

Just wondering if the pump is defective? Or if it's the orientation of the pump to the tank? (when comparing the XD5 to the FLT240)
 
Thanks both. Yes, i would like to set it to a fixed RPM and leave it (and just change fan speed if necessary to maintain water temp). However, right now the only option i have is FLAT OUT :) My flow meter (Barrow Tech) says it's at 5.1 L/min. Seems high, and i would like it to be a bit slower, to keep the water in the rads longer for cooling.

99% sure there is no air. I spent a long time shaking the rig, and tilting it in all directions (and lots of air came out during all that!) I'll do some more now.

It is a B-Grade FLT240 - so maybe it was returned damaged?

(and no, i have never run the pump without water! :cry: )
 
youtube.com

EK WaterBlock FLT 240 - D5 Pump Rattle

Picked up a B-Grade EKWB FLT 240 D5 pump / reservoir and when I run the pump at anything less than 100%, it rattles.
youtube.com youtube.com
Jay85 said:
Never had this issue with them though i suspect it might be trapped air bubbles. I trial tested a FLT 120 with a DDC pump and it made similar rattling noises but that was down to an air pocket which i fixed by tilting the radiator a few times to release the airpocket and adjusting the speed up and down.

The other thing you could check is on the D5 side, take the top part off where it spins on the bearing and see if that white bearing is solid or spinning freely? It should be on there solid. If you dont know what i mean i can show you a video of my broken one,
Click to expand...
Lots of great information from everyone. Appreciate it!
Yes, if you have a link to a video, that would help. I think I know what you mean, but would be good to confirm with a video.

@Mcnumpty2323 -> Maybe it's dampening? The FLT 240 is spaced off the chassis using plastic standoffs. But it *really* sounds like internal rattling, rather than resonance.

I put a video up on YouTube that hopefully illustrates the noise, at 60% pump speed

 
Just a written update for now. I am waiting for my custom 12VHPWR cable to arrive, and then i will post some pics!

Ordered a new FLT240, and new temp sensor (it was reading N/A in the BIOS). They arrived, i spent a lot of time draining, pulling out parts, re-fitting, filling, bleeding air ... (so much effort in water cooling! Crazy! (but worth it))

I can run the pump at any speed, and no rattling! Excellent. And the temp sensor works too, so now i can control the pump speed off that. Nice.

i think i have a pretty decent fan profile set up, but still tweaking a bit. Depending on the ambient temp in the room, the coolant is between 27 and 31. At load, the GPU hits about 52, and water about 32-37 (depending on ambient)

The worst part is that i already have ideas of what i want to change!! (facepalm) in terms of aesthetics. crazy hobby..
 
Hello again! It took quite a while to get the last component (the custom ModCable 12VHPWR). Was going to embed all the images, but there are quite a few :) So just adding a couple, and a link to the rest. FYI - the 'album' seems to show less photos than there are. So click on one, and then advance through the roll to see them all.

Photostream of Finished Build

I'm doing a PC PartPicker list as well, with all the little bits and pieces, but the big stuff is:
  • ASUS ROG Strix X670E-A
  • AMD 5800X3D
  • Corsair Vengance 32 GB DDR5 6000
  • NVidia 4090 FW
  • MSI 1000W PCIe5 PSU
  • Phanteks NV7 Case
  • EKWB P360 X-Flow (x2) 44mm rads
  • Hardware Labs 360 (x1) 30mm rad
  • 9x Lian Li AL 120 v2 fans
  • Barrow Flow / Temperature metre
Again, can't thank the group enough for the help along the way! It's been emotional :cry:. I already have some ideas for what i would like to do next. And yes, i am bummed that there is a scratch on the tube on the inlet side of the GPU :(

https://flic.kr/p/2oY7BFk

https://flic.kr/p/2oY8Gn3

https://flic.kr/p/2oY8Gjc
 
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Thanks @Mcnumpty2323 :) I'll try to get through each of your points
  1. Yes, wallet is not happy :cry: But for sure, the improved temp, and lower noise (and the joy of seeing a nice finished product) has been worth it
  2. Good ideas for the scratch. I'll play around with some scrap tubing. At least it's low down, and kinda under the GPU - not easy to see
  3. I was wondering what I could do with that space under the top rad! I wasn't sure how much space would be visible until the build was done. Not sure about a sensor screen (money!) but a vinyl graphic would look cool!
  4. No worries on the criticism - it helps to see where I can improve! Yes, sadly, that vertical tube is not dead-straight... On paper, my idea of 'floating' the flow meter was a great idea! In practice, it was very hard to get it right (as you noticed) When I do a service on the loop (in a year or so) I will look to correct it. It bothers me too! :cry:
  5. The drain out the back - it's soft tubing (to a Quick-Disconnect) and it wasn't clear in the pictures, but the NV7 has a door on the back that covers all the wiring. So I fold the tube up, and the door covers it. (plus, i don't have a cat! :D )
  6. Crossflow - yes, they were a big factor in my build. I didn't want tubing running all over the inside of the case, so they were a perfect solution
Appreciate the feedback! I'm very happy with the build, and sitting here typing away with a coolant temp of 26 :) like you said - was the right decision to build it 'properly' for the power-hungry components I chose.
 
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