New PSU? Mobo? Help!

jonnz

jonnz

jonnz

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Joined
8 Jan 2015
Posts
35
Location
Essex, UK
Hey all, hope everyone's well, just after a bit of advice...
Turned my PC off as usual the other night then the following day, attempted to turn it on but nothing. The Mobo was lit up and connected USB (light strip on the back of the desk). Literally took everything apart and upon sliding the dust filters out on the bottom of the case, there appeared to be some sort of cable shielding in tiny pieces which is unusual (directly underneath where the PSU fan is) and the PSU at times does make a noise when initial power goes to it when plugged in (also have a decent surge protector as an extension lead).

I checked all cables, hoovered out all the dust from fans, GPU etc and still no luck. I have a 'start', 'reset' and 'cmos' button on the mobo, pressed the 'cmos' button for a second and it sprang into action. Nearly booted up, fans on, hard drive into play then instantly powered down but powering back up presenting me with the screen to enter bios. Had a quick look through unable to spot anything unusual so exited whereby Windows booted as normal. Everything worked fine, had a game of DOOM Eternal which ran flawlessly for a while too. Complete shut down then the following day, same thing, would not boot unless I pressed the 'cmos' button on the mobo. The Bios is constantly showing the wrong date/time even when corrected (battery gone on the mobo?) and obviously the cable shielding found beneath the PSU leads me to believe it may be something to do with this?

I have not changed any hardware recently, overclocked or played about with anything else. Maybe a new software install here and there but surely that shouldn't cause anything such as this...

Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated, full spec below. Thanks.

Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz (Skylake) Socket LGA1151 Processor
Asus Maximus VIII Hero Intel Z170 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
Samsung 250GB 850 EVO SSD 2.5" SATA 6Gbps 32 Layer 3D V-NAND Solid State Drive
Seagate 1TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache HDD
OcUK 24x DVD±RW SATA ReWriter
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 "Founders Edition" 8192MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
Corsair RM Series RMi 850 '80+ Gold' 850W Modular Power Supply (CP-9020083-UK)
Microsoft Windows 10 64-Bit DVD - OEM (MS-KW9-00139)
Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 PC4-25600C16 3200MHz Dual Channel
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Full Tower Case
 
Might be two issues:

BIOS battery might well be gone, about £1 to replace so do that anyway.

Also the debris sounds like something might have dropped out of the PSU by the way you describe it. Difficult to know what you mean by cable sheilding without a pic, although you might be able to identify where it came from if you look at one of the in-depth reviews for that PSU as they have a few pictures of inside the casing:

https://www.pctekreviews.com/Reviews/RM850i.aspx

https://hexus.net/tech/reviews/psu/84551-corsair-rm850i/

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/08/24/corsair-rm850i-850w-power-supply/5/
 
Agree about needing picture to say what that "cable shielding" is.

But that's definitely old enough that BIOS/RTC battery could be dead and clock not keeping time is traditional symptom of it.
And that can also cause some crazy symptoms including powering on problems.

PSU is high end model and shouldn't be worn out in any way.
Though of course even some very expensive products made one at time suffer from "anomalies"...
Again if motherboard is failing then there's no reason to look for another board for CPU with half the cores of next-gen consoles.
 
mattyfez said:
Might be two issues:

BIOS battery might well be gone, about £1 to replace so do that anyway.

Also the debris sounds like something might have dropped out of the PSU by the way you describe it. Difficult to know what you mean by cable sheilding without a pic, although you might be able to identify where it came from if you look at one of the in-depth reviews for that PSU as they have a few pictures of inside the casing:

https://www.pctekreviews.com/Reviews/RM850i.aspx

https://hexus.net/tech/reviews/psu/84551-corsair-rm850i/

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/08/24/corsair-rm850i-850w-power-supply/5/
Click to expand...

EsaT said:
Agree about needing picture to say what that "cable shielding" is.

But that's definitely old enough that BIOS/RTC battery could be dead and clock not keeping time is traditional symptom of it.
And that can also cause some crazy symptoms including powering on problems.

PSU is high end model and shouldn't be worn out in any way.
Though of course even some very expensive products made one at time suffer from "anomalies"...
Again if motherboard is failing then there's no reason to look for another board for CPU with half the cores of next-gen consoles.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input. I'm pretty sure now that it is the onboard battery. The time/date in the bios is constantly wrong and this is also now happening in Windows prior to it updating when going online. It now boots without having to press the cmos button on the motherboard but boots for a second before what seems like it powers down and boots presenting me with the F1 start up screen into the bios. No local shops have the battery in stock so expecting one through the letter box any day now. Will give an update once I've swapped it over (hopefully good news!). As previously stated, I've tested the PSU by playing a few graphic intensive games and it doesn't cause any bother at all. Thanks again for your input!
 
Re the cable shielding, sadly this was hoovered up. All I can describe it as is small hard plastic, green coloured and what I would presume is potentially green cabling (without the core wire) in tiny pieces. The PSU does make a power surge sound when switched on so potentially damaged something within due to this? I have it plugged in via a surge protection extension lead but would there be any other precautions to put in to help? Thanks
 
I wouldn't like to say without seeing a picture of the offending green plastic, especially as you said the PSU makes a 'power surge noise' when switched on... I'm not exactly sure what you mean by that, other than a bit of fan noise it should really make any noise.

I guess my train of thought is that green plastic must have come from somewhere, so I'd try to figure out where.
 
Sounds to me like the PSU blew a smoothing cap on the input, hence the debris.

Date / time loss is unrelated & probably CMOS battery as said, but I'd junk the PSU.
 
It might well still be within warranty/RMA period, maybe consider sending it back - wouldn't be happy running it with the un-diagonosed noise and the mystery green plastic must have come from somewhere.
 
Hi all, thanks for the further comments. I replaced the Motherboard battery today and there isn't any further difference.

From being off completely, it boots for a few seconds then goes off and boots again, back to the black F1 screen to enter BIOS to configure RAID etc. I go into the BIOS, exit then it boots to Windows as normal. Any further advice?

The green plastic bits may have been from the grounding wire's insulation but with that not being changed (PSU) my suspicion still lies that the PSU isn't working as it should? Just odd how once it's up and running it handles everything thrown at it...
 
Another update -
The PC does not boot at all now. Lights come on the Motherboard, it does not boot via the main power button nor do the start, reset or clear cmos buttons work on the motherboard itself. When pressing the clear cmos, the lights go out momentarily then back on again. I have tried clearing the cmos by removing the onboard battery and this makes no difference.

Through watching various videos, I believe this to be the PSU. Would it be possible to order a new PSU and plug in a couple of connectors without going too mad to test then if it doesn't work return for a refund? This was a build by OCUK back in June 2016 but I imagine all warranty would have gone by now?

Any help or advice would be great! Thanks
 
Just an update incase anyone else has similar issues. I swapped the PSU out for a new one (although completely same make/model) and this solved the issue.
 
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