Night time cityscapes

[edgedemon]

I thought Id better try some night time photography out as when I looked at my photo's I realised the only pics I had ever taken when dark were with my smartphone! I think that is because when going out for the night, I don't want to be carrying a full camera kit. So I figured it would be worthwhile to have a practice run so I can get my head around the technique as Im off to Marrakech next month and want a cityscape if I can find anywhere high enough.
I plan on taking my DA 12-24 (with hood) Pentax K30 tripod, spare batteries and that is about it, I don't own any ND filters.
From reading up a bit, Im planning to stop right down, (F16??) underexpose by quite a margin, to allow for the difference between dark sky and bright city lights and use the 2 sec timer.
No idea what white balance to use, will have to try a few and see what looks best.
Im planning on using Av mode as Im comfortable with that.
I might try some light trails as well, see how it goes...

Any other things to watch out for or consider as this is completely new to me

 

[XE11]

I thought Id better try some night time photography out as when I looked at my photo's I realised the only pics I had ever taken when dark were with my smartphone! I think that is because when going out for the night, I don't want to be carrying a full camera kit. So I figured it would be worthwhile to have a practice run so I can get my head around the technique as Im off to Marrakech next month and want a cityscape if I can find anywhere high enough.
I plan on taking my DA 12-24 (with hood) Pentax K30 tripod, spare batteries and that is about it, I don't own any ND filters.
From reading up a bit, Im planning to stop right down, (F16??) underexpose by quite a margin, to allow for the difference between dark sky and bright city lights and use the 2 sec timer.
No idea what white balance to use, will have to try a few and see what looks best.
Im planning on using Av mode as Im comfortable with that.
I might try some light trails as well, see how it goes...

Any other things to watch out for or consider as this is completely new to me

constantly remind yourself not to use too wide angle. it;s common mistake to try and include everything in the photo. some works, but most will make all objects too small.

try to bracket a few photos (same composition) with manual focus. some lens/body combo doesnt do too well in terms of infinity focus.

white balance can be played around after you got home. so as long as it is not too extreme, it should be ok.

set ISO as low as you can.

and always be mindful whats behind you.

and turn off image stabilisation when using a tripod

 

[edgedemon]

and turn off image stabilisation when using a tripod

Ta, completely forgot about that.
Couple of light trails that didn't work, off to find a different spot now

 

[edgedemon]

I don't think that Im going to get what I want without a ND filter as underexposing didn't work that well.
Im looking at the cokin P153 ND x4 filter, as I have a wide angle lens, the adapter, holder and filter come to £41 and I can pick it up for tonight's attempt
I know at that price, quality wont be brilliant, but this is more about learning than getting a great shot. Plus, if I have the holder and adapter, I can buy a better filter later on to use once I have been paid.
My key question is over the x4 value, is that enough or should I be going higher as that reduces by approx 2 stops...
IF I take Tower bridge as an example, there is a big difference between the bridge and surrounding scene, Im concerned that 2 stops may not be enough and I dont have the experience to predict what setgoing to use, though Id like to get at least a 30sec shutter if not more

 

[Columbo]

You really shouldn't need an ND for night shots. Generally when I shoot night shots I use the following.

1: Full manual
2: ISO 100-200
3: F11 - F16
4: Stabilisation Off
5: Auto White balance
6: Shoot RAW
7: Tripod
8: Multi segment metering

Then simply set the shutter speed so that the exposure meter is on the money, if the shutter speed is metering at over 30 secs then you'll need a wired remote shutter to use in bulb mode, and then it's just trial and error!

Remember you are on a tripod and the subject isn't moving, just fire one shot off review and alter then next one accordingly.

Don't worry about slightly over or under exposing as you can simply bring the detail back from the RAW file, and definitely don't worry about white balance when shooting RAW.

 

[edgedemon]

OK, so nowhere as easy as I thought it would b, but an important learning experience
Tower Bridge was the wrong bridge - the traffic is too slow for a start.
There are traffic lights 50mt down the road so the traffic flow was irregular, or just one side at a time.
Too many tourists
Shake reduction was off and I used the 2 sec timer, but the bridge was moving a fair bit with the traffic..
All good experience though, didn't really get any usable shots, but I didn't touch my auto setting so Im more than happy

Im also confused - Im going to show some pictures to show what I mean.
First one with the DA 35mm F2.4 plastic fantastic

ISO 100, 20secs@F18, no flash, WB=auto

Then we have the DA 12-24

24mm, 4 secs @ F13, ISO 100

If I try to find one around the F18 mark, I can get this

24mm 6secs @ F18, ISO 100, tripod WB=Auto

All shots were with a tripod, I remember my 35mm performing a lot better than the 12-24, I would get a shot with the 35mm, think the exposure was right and then change to the 12-24 and try the exact same settings and I would get a horrible over-exposed mess, I spent 90% of my time with the 12-24 at F20 or F22.
I am right in thinking that if a lens is correctly exposed when stopped down, I should get a similar exposure if I use the same settings when I switch?
This was probably the best exposure I got out of the 12-24

21mm 2secs @f22!!! ISO100, WB=auto

I seem to have a major issue with over-exposure on the 12-24? I did check the lens was on correctly!

What is going on - do I need to take the lens in for a check up

 

[XE11]

OK, so nowhere as easy as I thought it would b, but an important learning experience
Tower Bridge was the wrong bridge - the traffic is too slow for a start.
There are traffic lights 50mt down the road so the traffic flow was irregular, or just one side at a time.
Too many tourists
Shake reduction was off and I used the 2 sec timer, but the bridge was moving a fair bit with the traffic..
All good experience though, didn't really get any usable shots, but I didn't touch my auto setting so Im more than happy

Im also confused - Im going to show some pictures to show what I mean.
First one with the DA 35mm F2.4 plastic fantastic

ISO 100, 20secs@F18, no flash, WB=auto

Then we have the DA 12-24

24mm, 4 secs @ F13, ISO 100

If I try to find one around the F18 mark, I can get this

24mm 6secs @ F18, ISO 100, tripod WB=Auto

All shots were with a tripod, I remember my 35mm performing a lot better than the 12-24, I would get a shot with the 35mm, think the exposure was right and then change to the 12-24 and try the exact same settings and I would get a horrible over-exposed mess, I spent 90% of my time with the 12-24 at F20 or F22.
I am right in thinking that if a lens is correctly exposed when stopped down, I should get a similar exposure if I use the same settings when I switch?
This was probably the best exposure I got out of the 12-24

21mm 2secs @F22!!! ISO100, WB=auto

I seem to have a major issue with over-exposure on the 12-24? I did check the lens was on correctly!

What is going on - do I need to take the lens in for a check up

leave the shutter long enough the tourist will disappear

the over exposure problem is caused by the increase of field of view. even the same settings but decrease focal length means your sensor is seeing more view i.e. allow more light to comes through. check on the edges if there are any light source that creeped into the picture that wasnt there on the 35mm.

the image quality also decrease as you approach minimum aperture (highest F number). [sorry im at work, the IT guys blocked all the uploaded pictures, i will take another look tonight when im back home]

 

[mattyg]

I was in London last night. Went to try and grab some shots. Managed a few of the o2 arena then just seemed to drive around aimlessly for a while then got Pizza and went home.
Think taking the wife and dog was a bad Idea.

Any local togs up for a meet this week to show us the gems (standard shots)

 

[edgedemon]

the over exposure problem is caused by the increase of field of view. even the same settings but decrease focal length means your sensor is seeing more view i.e. allow more light to comes through. ]

Good point about the FoV, that has slipped my mind completely.
At F22, I was out of options for leaving the shutter open longer..

 

[edgedemon]

Im guessing that if I want to use the 12-24 I will need to get a ND filter then. Im now looking at the cokin x or z series as for a 77mm lens diameter I will need the lager size filters? IM going to try some more shots next week, but will try somewhere else and see what results I get before buying anything as XE11 has given me some things to consider that I can test before wasting money

 

[XE11]

Im guessing that if I want to use the 12-24 I will need to get a ND filter then. Im now looking at the cokin x or z series as for a 77mm lens diameter I will need the lager size filters? IM going to try some more shots next week, but will try somewhere else and see what results I get before buying anything as XE11 has given me some things to consider that I can test before wasting money

i actually took all my gear today and ready to do the same shot in that location so i can have a better understanding of the challenges and may be give you some better tips. but I had some domestic emergency so i didnt go. let see if weather is better next week, i will try to do it again.