No electricity to electric shower. No pull switch installed.

[413x]

Decided to make a new thread as I believe I may have more serious issues than a broken electric shower.

This morning the electric shower stopped working. I assumed it was the shower that was broken. However I don't think there is any power getting to the shower. (no voltage on a multimeter).
The fuse in the breaker box is on.

Obviously now I've been googling and i can't find any trace of a pull switch for the shower.
Indeed. Behind the shower is the airing cupboard and the cable for the shower just goes up into the attic.
Has this shower been fitted incorrectly?

Everywhere seems to mention you must have this isolation switch/cord?

There is a switch in the airing cupboard I've just found which may be for the shower but without the electric going to the shower at all I cant check

 

[andy_mk3]

It doesn't have to be a pull switch, it can be a regular wall switch too, but it needs a noen or mechanical indicator in either type.

 

[Maundie]

I had an isolator switch outside the bathroom next to the light switch so it doesn’t have to be a pull switch (I purposefully had the light moved from a pull switch to an external wall switch when the shower was installed).

Have you checked the consumer unit to see if it’s tripped on there?

 

[Maundie]

Edit double post

 

[413x]

Update.
I believe (not 100 percent sure) I have found this switch.
It looks like the wire from the shower goes through the wall into a white panel/red switch on the other side.. Feasible?
This then has a long thick cable into the roof.

Using NCV On the multimeter can detect voltage between roof and switch. Which goes off/on for the shower when flipping the MCB for it.

So hopefully this switch is dead?
Also. The switch I'll not turn off. Like it's jammed on 'on'


Going to attempt this myself as I fixed my microwave a week Or 2 back.

I believe this is just a cooker 45 A isolation switch from research? The MCB is rated 40A

 

[Hagar]

Yes, you need an isolation switch between the consumer unit and the electric shower and its probably 35A or more. I used a ceiling pull switch when I fitted a Triton shower unit but a switch on the other side of the wall is fine, so it cannot be used when in the shower.

I am not an electrician.

 

[norm]

Is this circuit RCD protected? If not I wouldn't entertain using the shower until an appropriate breaker is installed.

 

[413x]

Yes, you need an isolation switch between the consumer unit and the electric shower and its probably 35A or more. I used a ceiling pull switch when I fitted a Triton shower unit but a switch on the other side of the wall is fine, so it cannot be used when in the shower.

I am not an electrician.

I believe this must be the switch.
If there's voltage in the wire in the pic that's controlled by the mcb. And none in the bit between the shower and this switch surely that's all it can be?

I'm going to pop to screwfix tomorrow and get one of these cooker switches and wire it in I think.

If it's this it's a much cheaper job than I thought.
Initially thought it was shower broken then thought I needed a electrician.

 

[413x]

Is this circuit RCD protected? If not I wouldn't entertain using the shower until an appropriate breaker is installed.

There are two rcds in the box. With 3 mcbs to the left of each. So I'd assume so? Is there any way to know without taking the front of the breaker box off?

Edit. Just read about what an rcd actually does. Yeah they are pretty important!

 

[norm]

There are two rcds in the box. With 3 mcbs to the left of each. So I'd assume so? Is there any way to know without taking the front of the breaker box off?

Edit. Just read about what an rcd actually does. Yeah they are pretty important!

You really need to determine the cause of the fault before re-energising the circuit. A rudimentary check is to press the 'Test' buttons on the RCDs and ensure the power is cut.

It might be worth getting an electrician in for something as safety critical as this. They can test the circuit far more thoroughly to ensure it's all good.

 

[NoobCannon]

Edit :- turn power off before all of below

Take the front off the switch and see if anythings loose or damaged.

If the switch is stuck the contacts could be welded together indicating a fault with the shower, most likely culprit then would be the heater.

You can easily test the switch by using a continuity tester and test across the switch and see if contact is made/broken.

As always tho, if your not confident with electrical work get a electrician in.

 

[413x]

Looks like the live wire to the shower is burnt out.
Apparently most seem to say this is a poor termination or just wear and tear.

Also suggested to completely change the cable. As damage can be quite far down the cable?

 

[BigBoy]

Looks like the live wire to the shower is burnt out.
Apparently most seem to say this is a poor termination or just wear and tear.

Also suggested to completely change the cable. As damage can be quite far down the cable?

I would look to be replacing that 8/10mm twin and earth with some 16mm twin and earth specially if your pulling a potential 40a through it.

What is the rating of the shower? Our 10.5Kw Triton shower required 16mm cable and a 45a fuse in the bored as well as an isolator!

 

[NoobCannon]

Looks like the live wire to the shower is burnt out.
Apparently most seem to say this is a poor termination or just wear and tear.

Also suggested to completely change the cable. As damage can be quite far down the cable?

Are you confident with opening the shower up. You need to test the heater and see if any of the elements have short to earth or eachother.

 

[413x]

Are you confident with opening the shower up. You need to test the heater and see if any of the elements have short to earth or eachother.

I'll do this. Shower is still open.
Had to test for shorts in the microwave.

Yeah it's a 10.5kw one too with a 40A mcb.

 

[K.C. Leblanc]

Are you confident with opening the shower up. You need to test the heater and see if any of the elements have short to earth or eachother.

Trouble is unless you do this with a proper insulation tester you might not find the fault. A multimeter uses a very low voltage.

I'm afraid I think you're now at the point where it would be best to get a professional in. It's possible that the shower has been incorrectly installed on an unsized cable. This needs to be looked at by a competent person.

 

[NoobCannon]

Trouble is unless you do this with a proper insulation tester you might not find the fault. A multimeter uses a very low voltage.

I'm afraid I think you're now at the point where it would be best to get a professional in. It's possible that the shower has been incorrectly installed on an unsized cable. This needs to be looked at by a competent person.

When those elements go they usually let go properly. Should be able to test it easily with a volt meter. Even a small ohms difference across the elements and i would replace the heater.

The average home owner isnt gonna have an insulation tester so its the best test he can do with what he has available.

 

[413x]

So multimeter tests on shower seemed OK.

I went ahead and replaced the switch like for like.
If it goes again quickly I'll get an electrician in. But worth a go I think. Tightened the screws which pinch the wire hard as I could.

Also the cable was 10mm so fine for the 40A draw.

 

[NoobCannon]

So multimeter tests on shower seemed OK.

I went ahead and replaced the switch like for like.
If it goes again quickly I'll get an electrician in. But worth a go I think. Tightened the screws which pinch the wire hard as I could.

Also the cable was 10mm so fine for the 40A draw.

what if it goes again and it catches on fire? A switch wouldn't just fail for no reason. Esp one like a shower thats rarely turned off. But anyway fingers crossed for ya

 

[Rroff]

This needs to be looked at by a competent person.

Agreed proper current baring and RCD, etc. is far too critical with a shower.

I know it is an actual term but it always tickles me at work that the main distribution board has a big sign saying "competent persons only to work on this panel".