Attempt to decipher instructions!!!. DO NOT BE IN A HURRY!!!. Play with the parts and get familiar with them and where they fit. Mind the static if manipulating any boards!!.
To protect the Mobo from damage the mounting screws have actually got springs in them. When all other problems have been overcome and you are tightening the pump onto the CPU you will see (With difficulty) the crosshead screw inside the knurled fasteners beginning to move towards the Mobo. This is the springs working. There is very little movement, so be very careful as the thermal paste is supposed to do the job, not brute force.
My pump was mounted with the piping at the top. This is to bleed any residual bubbles out of the pump. If you ever bring your CPU to the boil at least the bubbles can be purged !!.
The rad was mounted with the piping at the bottom so that the gases can settle at the top of the rad ( Becomes the header tank) out of the water flow.
The pump was connected to a basic 3 pin fan connector for a constant 12V supply.
An Akasa Venom Viper PWM fan was used, currently sucking into the case. The 4 pin plug was plugged into the CPU fan power supply.
Leaks have been reported so at start up it might be expedient to wrap a bit of tissue around the pipe joints. The higher the water temperature the higher the rad pressure. After all, We don't want a water cooled mobo.
Using the default Bios at 3.4 GHz I thought I had gone deaf because the PC was whisper quiet.
Even running Prime95 the Viper fan was hardly noticeable. The I5 ran up to the low 40 C's.
My FSX sim has gained 20fps over the old Q6600 rig. As the new rig will also be general purpose it can stay as is for now.
A VERY happy old fogey!!
To protect the Mobo from damage the mounting screws have actually got springs in them. When all other problems have been overcome and you are tightening the pump onto the CPU you will see (With difficulty) the crosshead screw inside the knurled fasteners beginning to move towards the Mobo. This is the springs working. There is very little movement, so be very careful as the thermal paste is supposed to do the job, not brute force.
My pump was mounted with the piping at the top. This is to bleed any residual bubbles out of the pump. If you ever bring your CPU to the boil at least the bubbles can be purged !!.
The rad was mounted with the piping at the bottom so that the gases can settle at the top of the rad ( Becomes the header tank) out of the water flow.
The pump was connected to a basic 3 pin fan connector for a constant 12V supply.
An Akasa Venom Viper PWM fan was used, currently sucking into the case. The 4 pin plug was plugged into the CPU fan power supply.
Leaks have been reported so at start up it might be expedient to wrap a bit of tissue around the pipe joints. The higher the water temperature the higher the rad pressure. After all, We don't want a water cooled mobo.
Using the default Bios at 3.4 GHz I thought I had gone deaf because the PC was whisper quiet.
Even running Prime95 the Viper fan was hardly noticeable. The I5 ran up to the low 40 C's.
My FSX sim has gained 20fps over the old Q6600 rig. As the new rig will also be general purpose it can stay as is for now.
A VERY happy old fogey!!
