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*** Official Ryzen Owners Thread ***

Switched to a 1800X and currently testing its OC potential. So far it looks like it achieves the same 4.25Ghz clock at a lower voltage than my 1700. No surprise though, 1800X are the best binned.
 
Switched to a 1800X and currently testing its OC potential. So far it looks like it achieves the same 4.25Ghz clock at a lower voltage than my 1700. No surprise though, 1800X are the best binned.

I'd love to know what voltage 1800x runs at stock when all cores loaded if you wouldn't mind?

Couldn't find that info in any reviews
 
I'd love to know what voltage 1800x runs at stock when all cores loaded if you wouldn't mind?

Couldn't find that info in any reviews

It likely varies from sample to sample, and it fluctuates depending on load at stock so difficult to say. Mine was running around 1.40v -1.5v.

Currently testing 4.25Ghz at 1.373v and looking stable, will see how low i can take it.
 
Yeah, I'm sure there will be some variation.

I was just curious about the voltage ranges used when everything on auto, as surely that would be an indication of safe ranges for the Ryzen chips?

What are you running to check stability again? I'm sure you have mentioned in previous posts... but yeah, trying to find said posts may be painful :D

Edit:
I know I have passed say an hour of RB stress, but failed when encoding overnight, so still trying to find that silver bullet test...
 
I'd love to know what voltage 1800x runs at stock when all cores loaded if you wouldn't mind?

Couldn't find that info in any reviews
That can vary for so many reasons, also if you are in auto mode then Avfs will fine tune the voltage level at each p-state.
It's a shame that individual core voltage has been bypassed because the chips are capable of it.
 
Yeah, I'm sure there will be some variation.

I was just curious about the voltage ranges used when everything on auto, as surely that would be an indication of safe ranges for the Ryzen chips?

What are you running to check stability again? I'm sure you have mentioned in previous posts... but yeah, trying to find said posts may be painful :D

Edit:
I know I have passed say an hour of RB stress, but failed when encoding overnight, so still trying to find that silver bullet test...

Yeah I'm not sure what we're communicating yet regarding safe voltage ranges. Once i get official confirmation I'll let you know.

In my 'personal' opinion, anything 1.4v and lower is perfectly safe.
 
Yeah, I'm sure there will be some variation.

I was just curious about the voltage ranges used when everything on auto, as surely that would be an indication of safe ranges for the Ryzen chips?

What are you running to check stability again? I'm sure you have mentioned in previous posts... but yeah, trying to find said posts may be painful :D

Edit:
I know I have passed say an hour of RB stress, but failed when encoding overnight, so still trying to find that silver bullet test...
For me Aida 64 has found everything. I don't want to use prime just personal preference.
Any memory instabilities have been found within 30 mins. Where as realbench can pass 4 hours just fine. Same applies to bf1. It doesn't seem to mind but overwatch spits it's dummy out.
 
For me Aida 64 has found everything. I don't want to use prime just personal preference.
Any memory instabilities have been found within 30 mins. Where as realbench can pass 4 hours just fine. Same applies to bf1. It doesn't seem to mind but overwatch spits it's dummy out.

I haven't tested aida64 extensively, so may re-install that tonight.
 
The memory is at 3200Mhz. :)
Doh. Read that as 1500 for some reason.

Very nice. Are you maybe able to bench any of the games in some of the reviews that showed lagging performance. I would really like to see the impact in fps of the change from 2600 MHz to 3200mhz to see if it makes a big difference in those games.

Oh, and just saw your edit from 4.2 to 4.025ghz
 
Quick bit of advise from a G5 owner, Windows 10 can't install the Killer NIC driver so make sure to use the Intel NIC when setting up the system, and if you want it installed instead of being a giant yellow triangle in device manager you cannot install the driver by itself as it's integrated into the bloatware installer (and the installer will actually crash if you uncheck the bloatware lol).

The only way I found to do it, was to install the bloatware, then copy the driver out of system32/drivers, then uninstall the bloatware (which uninstalls the driver too >.>) then reinstall the driver via device manager.

Or In my case, modprobe alx :p

I may tackle a win7 install at a later date.
 
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