Opinions on Laminate and/or Quick-Step flooring?

Soldato
Joined
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Hi there,

I really like the look of this Quick-Step flooring for my living room and possibly my hallway too:

http://www.floorsonline.co.uk/p-2931-quick-step-vogue-oak-white-passionata.aspx

I haven't installed anything other than Ikea laminate before which is obviously entry level.

Can anyone tell me if Quick-Step is any good?

I have heard good things about it and that it has a scratch guard coating.

Also can you mop it or do you need a steam cleaner?

Or perhaps some might have opinions on another type of laminate in this rough price range.

Thanks.
 
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I used it last week on a garage conversion we were doing and it was really easy to fit and looked great. I can't comment on how well it stands up to wear and tear but it seemed like decent quality stuff. As good if not better than the Krono laminate I fitted at home and easier to fit.

As for mopping it, i'd use a miscrofiber flat mop and just mist the floor with water or laminate floor cleaning fluid. They don't like getting saturated in water, even if you glue the joins.
 
Nothing wrong with 'Quick Step', but use a good underlay, looking at details I see it has a 'Splash Warranty' for domestic use, & has a 25 year warranty.

You ideally want a laminate with a minimum AC3 rating, link here.

http://www.fastfloors.com/content_11/ac-ratings-explained.htm

http://www.quick-step.co.uk/laminate?id=Flooring_FloorType/005_Laminate

A guide here for laying it.

http://www.quick-step.co.uk/laminat...-planks?id=Flooring_FloorAggregate/005_418315

So do you think that that particular type is AC3? or do you know of any online store which states that rating - even the quick step website doesn't mention it.

regarding underlay - I have used Sonic Gold in the past: http://www.tradepriced.co.uk/sonic_gold_laminate_hardwood_underlay.html

do you think this is adequate?
 
I used it last week on a garage conversion we were doing and it was really easy to fit and looked great. I can't comment on how well it stands up to wear and tear but it seemed like decent quality stuff. As good if not better than the Krono laminate I fitted at home and easier to fit.

As for mopping it, i'd use a miscrofiber flat mop and just mist the floor with water or laminate floor cleaning fluid. They don't like getting saturated in water, even if you glue the joins.

Ahh thanks for letting me know. I have ordered a sample for free from that store but did you feel that the wear layer was a good thickness and that the edges would not fray to readily? (sorry but after laying Ikea I'm hoping for a world of difference)

regarding cleaning that's not too bad actually - I'm just trying to get a feel for whether Laminate is actually practical and not too much of a pain the in the back-side.
 
What sort of surface are you going on to? Underlay requirements are different for floorboards vs concrete.

After doing a fair bit of research I actually went for one of the Homebase products which was really well reviewed, and after a month or so of use I'm still pleased with it. Only time will tell of course! The main thing is to treat the end with care when you install it - if you crack the edges when installing, you're sealing your own fate!
 
What sort of surface are you going on to? Underlay requirements are different for floorboards vs concrete.

it's hard slate tile on concrete. it's level and dry. i think the sonic gold seems ok for this type it's just that there may be a better quality or something.

The main thing is to treat the end with care when you install it - if you crack the edges when installing, you're sealing your own fate!

don't I know it - after having used the ikea stuff i want to get a reasonable quality laminate that is not so fragile.
 
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Are you looking at laminate flooring due to being on a tight budget?

I would never recommend a laminate floor, and would always say go for a real wood floor (engineered floor would be perfect) due to the longevity of the floor.

Laminate once scratched, scuffed or dented looks really bad, where as on a real wood floor adds to the character.

Laminate flooring is cold underfoot, real wood whilst not red hot under foot will feel warmer.

Real wood floors add value to the property, laminate does not.

Obviously if you are on a budget and laminate is all you can afford the Quick-Step is a good option, my personal choice and something we are doing is saving up a little longer in order to put real wood down.

Just my 2p
 
So do you think that that particular type is AC3? or do you know of any online store which states that rating - even the quick step website doesn't mention it.

Sonic Gold is excellent underlay on wood & concrete floors, most quality domestic laminate is AC3.

I did use AC4 laminate which is rated heavy domestic in my last place, only because I got a good deal on it.
 
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Are you looking at laminate flooring due to being on a tight budget?

I would never recommend a laminate floor, and would always say go for a real wood floor (engineered floor would be perfect) due to the longevity of the floor.

Laminate once scratched, scuffed or dented looks really bad, where as on a real wood floor adds to the character.

Laminate flooring is cold underfoot, real wood whilst not red hot under foot will feel warmer.

Real wood floors add value to the property, laminate does not.

Obviously if you are on a budget and laminate is all you can afford the Quick-Step is a good option, my personal choice and something we are doing is saving up a little longer in order to put real wood down.

Just my 2p

you can tell i don't now much about this - can you tell me what the installation differences are with engineered flooring? it is more difficult to install? - the prices don't seem to be *that* much more.
 
you can tell i don't now much about this - can you tell me what the installation differences are with engineered flooring? it is more difficult to install? - the prices don't seem to be *that* much more.

Pretty much the same. If you get an engineered wood floor you can either glue direct onto the sub floor, or the better option for you would be to 'float' the floor over underlay just like the laminate.

I would 100% go for engineered over laminate every single day of the week, I would even recommend you to go to a flooring shop and have a look at the difference in the finish.

Laminate floor is basically a photo of wood...engineered wood flooring is REAL wood.

The cheaper engineered wood floor has a thinner real wood top, the more expensive has more wear layer. Basically in your lifetime you may need to sand down once and re lacquer or re-oil so any 3mm layer should be fine.

Engineered wood floor can still move like a solid floor, but due to the plywood backing is much more stable but please leave an expansion gap around the edge of the room.

I used to work for these guys...http://www.flooringanddoors.co.uk/ in fact I helped setup the website and build the sales of flooring and doors with the guy who set that side of the division up.

I will try and help you out as much as possible but it has been around 5 years since I last sold some. Please give the guys a call and ask for advise, I shouldn't say this but even just ring as a punter and get as much information as possible then shop around, but with the parent company being a timber merchant they know their stuff!
 
Pretty much the same. If you get an engineered wood floor you can either glue direct onto the sub floor, or the better option for you would be to 'float' the floor over underlay just like the laminate.

I would 100% go for engineered over laminate every single day of the week, I would even recommend you to go to a flooring shop and have a look at the difference in the finish.

Laminate floor is basically a photo of wood...engineered wood flooring is REAL wood.

The cheaper engineered wood floor has a thinner real wood top, the more expensive has more wear layer. Basically in your lifetime you may need to sand down once and re lacquer or re-oil so any 3mm layer should be fine.

Engineered wood floor can still move like a solid floor, but due to the plywood backing is much more stable but please leave an expansion gap around the edge of the room.

I used to work for these guys...http://www.flooringanddoors.co.uk/ in fact I helped setup the website and build the sales of flooring and doors with the guy who set that side of the division up.

I will try and help you out as much as possible but it has been around 5 years since I last sold some. Please give the guys a call and ask for advise, I shouldn't say this but even just ring as a punter and get as much information as possible then shop around, but with the parent company being a timber merchant they know their stuff!

That's great info - I'm looking into this now. Even though it would seem that laminate has a greater range of styles and colours (I really like the look of the op laminate) The Quick-Step would have to have a very decent wear layer to compete.

cheers,
 
Fitting Quick-Step can be a little tricky. The anti-slip rubber strip can be a pain, but when you get to understand how it fits together, you should be flying. The best way to fit the floor is the opposite way to normal laminates i.e. starting with the female side of the locking system pointing away from you. There are many tutorials that show how to install the rubber strip and if you look carefully, you'll see they are fitting the planks opposite to a normal installation with the female part of the locking system first. If your new to this, when I say female, that refers to the groove and not the tongue part of the locking system. You'll understand what I mean when you have the boards in front of you. The rubber strip fits into a specially machined groove in the planks and tends to not want to stay put as your trying to fit the planks together. This is because the strip comes on a roll so has a natural formed spool effect. A lot like very long finger nails (sorry for the strange analogy but it keeps things interesting and it's actually an accurate comparison).
 
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