Optimising cooling, recommendations?

[BoomAM]

Evening all,
Just built a new gaming rig (below) and was looking for any recommendations for optimizing cooling.
The current system, to be clear, does not overheat, and is very very quiet. So keeping that sound profile would be nice.

Here's what i'm working with:

• Fractal Design R6 Black TG
  • Top exhausts are covered with included padded top cover, to also stop the cats from clogging it with cat hair.
  • 2x140mm intakes were removed to make room for H100i v2 at front.
  • 1x140mm exhaust still exists, plugged into MB, "chassis fan 3"

• Ryzen 7 2700 w/ Corsair H100i v2
  • Max temp seen, 56*c
  • Mounted at front of case, top 2 'fan slots'.
  • Artic Silver Ceramique Thermal Paste

• 16Gb G.Skill PC3200 (2x8Gb)

• Asus ROG Strix X470-F Gaming
  • Max temp seen, 47*c

• Samsung 970 Evo m.2
  • Using included MB mounted heatsink
  • Average temp is low-mid 50's.

• Samsung 950 Evo m.2
  • No Heatsink
  • Average temp is low-mid 50's

• Asus Strix 1080Ti
  • Average temp seen in games, 62-67*c
  • Average temp during benchmarking, 69-72*c

• Corsair RM750x PSU

Any tips?
Anything and everything would be considered, from 'add another intake to the front'.

As another way to look at it, AIO on the graphics card....any way to do it that isnt the dodgy looking NZXT Kracken G12.

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[BoomAM]

Morning,
During stress testing and/or in game.

Due to the case top being on, the only real exhaust i have is that 140mm.
Perhaps tie it instead into the graphics card PWN output, and set it to a min of 400rpm, and have it spin up when the graphics card spins up?

 

[BoomAM]

I think that might make the PC quieter at idle but won't help with temps, unless your fans are currently running at low speeds all the time?

They seemingly are, the exhaust 140mm barely spins up even under load.

I use Speedfan to control all my system fans off GPU and CPU temperatures but sadly I don't think it works for any current motherboards.

Control of fans should be fine, my mobo software can set it, as can the GPU software if i plug it in.

I may give that a go when i next get home, see how that helps. As if its basically the same as now, but ramps up when the GPU is underload, the temps should end up better when underload, in theory...

 

[BoomAM]

Your temps are fine. I suggest removing all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area and better front to back airflow. Block any holes in front mounting panel not covered by radiator so the air being pulled into case can't leak through them to front where it will be drawn back into radiator fans going round and round instead of pushing on back through case. Adding a bottom intake will supply cooler air to GPU, but as said your temps are fine.

Evening,
Yeah, the temps are fine, but i'd rather optimize where i can.
Your comment on blocking holes up though is a good idea, i did that on my last computer, has quite an effect on both temperature and dust build up.
I think what i may do is get a good 120mm for the bottom front, and wire it into the GPU. That feeding fresh air that doesn't go through a rad to the GPU should help.


Any tips on 120mm fans to use?

 

[BoomAM]

Thanks, i'll see if i can source it over here (US).

One thing i'm struggling with is the fan controls in the UEFI or Software...
I cant get the rear exhaust fan to spin up to full whack even if i set the software to tell it to do so.
And the CPU header that's on the Corsair AIO is reporting a fan speed of 300ish RPM, even though that doesn't match the pump RPM, or its fans according to Corsair link?

##EDIT##
I can get the exhaust fan to spin up if i disable smart control in the Asus AI software.
Even at full tilt, its barely shifting any more air than usual or making more noise, so thats nice.

Just trying to work out the AIO now, as the fans on it must have a threshold for kicking in.
If i run a CPU test, after a few seconds they spin up as the temp goes north of 40ish and into the 50s, then it spins back down again after the test until they turn off.

Any tips for AIO tuning? I have its 'fan cable' from the pump currently sat in the CPU_FAN header on the board.

 

[BoomAM]

ok, some minor tweaks I've made:

• Moved the AIO power from the CPU fan header, to the AIO header.
  • This makes the pump run at 1950rpm instead of sub-800rpm, which according to a few web searches, is the best config (run at full 12v mode)
  • I had to set the CPU fan to 'ignore' in the BIOS to prevent boot issues.
• Set Corsair Link
• run the pump in quiet mode (performance runs it at 2900rpm)
• run the fan's synchronized with the CPU temperature (quietens them down to 900rpm, but doesn't turn them off).
  • Custom fan curve
    • 20*c = 25%
    • 40*c = 30%
    • 50*c = 40%
    • 60*c = 50%
    • 65*c = 60%
    • 70*c = 75%

Results
Very quiet system with more than acceptable temps, and the fact that the CPU fan (which is also the intake) is always on in some capacity means that the graphics card is actually a few *c lower too.
Mac CPU temp i saw after 15mins of Prime95, in an apartment with the AC on 22*c, is 50*c.

Bugs noted
Corsair Link

• For some reason (even before this change) the Corsair software lists the CPU 'package' temp as 70*c+ - every other software, and uefi correctly lists similar temps (dependent on polling speed).
• It also reports my OS as Windows Enterprise 1703...im running Pro 1803.
• An inability to have the CPU fans off when the temperature is below a certain threshold, as it was before. I physically cant drag the slider that far down in the Corsair software

All monitoring apps

• ...Report an additional fan that's almost always below 500rpm. No idea what it is.

 

[BoomAM]

The fact you say the pump at "Full 12V mode" gives 1950RPM but its top speed is 2900RPM, also points to some voltage trickery. I'd look into all this and see if it could be improved, I love voltage control but I don't know if it's ideal in a system where you never want something to turn off. Obviously you don't want to accidentally stop the pump, ever. But it sounds like it's all working for you!

Well the thing im thinking/hoping, is that as the motherboard headers are feeding it the 12v is needs, and its the Corsair software reducing its RPM, it should be fine.

In terms of 15 minutes of Prime95, did the temperature level out and stabilise?

Yes, i wanted to do a longer test, but it was near midnight and i'd just remembered that this case has fan mounts on the bottom.
So i mounted one of the 140mm fans in the bottom front as a fresh air intake. Not tested temps yet, as i'm trying to tune it. I have the Asus AI software set to link its on/off state to the graphics card temp, with it only starting at 30% speed once the graphics card hits 40*c.

One thing I've noticed, is the Asus AI software is a bit flakey if any other hardware monitoring/mod software has been loaded, like Corsair Link, or the MSI afterburner i use for showing stats in game.

That's the other concern as well, do these settings save into the devices, or need the software running? So the custom fan curve profile setting, saved 'into' the h100i, and the fan header custom speeds saved to the Mobo? Or do i need the apps open 24/7 to keep them running?

 

[BoomAM]

PH-F140MP are crazy high priced in USA .. like 22 bucks each. Arctic F140 all models except Pro are good low cost fans they can be had on river/jungle site for about 8 bucks each or 33-34 for 5-pack

Note to mods: Going off the very old logic last time i was here of non-UK based suppliers being ok to mention, i'm about to mention a US supplier, please feel free to delete/correct/let me know and i'll adjust accordingly
Thanks, I've been using a place called MicroCenter (small national chain) as there's ones 15mins from where i work, they've got a pretty good selection of parts.
They have the F12 (120mm) version of $8.99, so if this additional 140mm, that i did originally remove from the case to make room for the AIO, doesnt have a big effect, i may get the F12 too.

 

[BoomAM]

Two big question marks there, in my experience: Does the fan control keep working if you close the app? I never know. I use Speedfan and I think it just leaves the settings wherever they are if you close it. And the same issue trying to get it to start at boot. Long faff with elevated privileges and a scheduled task... It works after some fiddling

That's what i'd like to avoid, i'd like to find a way for it to become OS/software agnostic...less to go wrong.

 

[BoomAM]

That's the other concern as well, do these settings save into the devices, or need the software running? So the custom fan curve profile setting, saved 'into' the h100i, and the fan header custom speeds saved to the Mobo? Or do i need the apps open 24/7 to keep them running?

To start answering my own concern, this thread here seems to suggest there's a way to set it so that the software for the H100i doesn't need to be running and/or installed.
Which if so, could be good, set it once, close it/remove auto-start, then that fixes the AI software bug as a result.

 

[BoomAM]

I know Asus A1 suite holds fan curves when closed. It allows curves to be set from windows instead of having to go into Bios. I have found that AI suite has to have fan tune-up./set-up ran before setting custom fan curves or the fan speed range is very limited.

Ok, thats good to know too.

With the Corsair Link software putting my fan curves into the "pump's memory", i dont have a need to keep it open, so AI suite should be behaving itself.
Now my only issue isn't cooling related, but is instead a return of this issue, but this time not in games, but in Windows!?

 

[BoomAM]

So after a few hours of DX:MD last night, i noticed that the components around the CPU socket (MB temp sensor, 970 NVME, VRMs, etc.) were all getting a bit toasty, and the case side 'above' them was a bit hot.
Then it dawned on me why...the internal case temp was high, as the exhaust fan was linked to the temperature of the CPU....which is on the AIO and always pretty cool running.

So i changed it in the UEFI to have both the exhaust and the 'new' bottom intake set on standard mode, sensor set as the motherboard one.
Hopefully that'll help!

Although i am considering replacing these 140mm fans, as even though they are quiet at full whack, they dont appear to shift much air...

 

[BoomAM]

Rather common problem with water cooling and why there are motherboard waterblocks.
The R6 case fans are Dynamic X2 GP-14 are simply too wimpy to do the job .. great case / lousy case fans. The only make 0.88mm H2O static pressure and 52.3 cfm eat full speed. If you replaced them with something like P-F140MP which makes 1.62mm H2O and 68.1cfm at 1600rpm or TY-147A which makes 1.56mm H2O and 73.64cfm at 1300rpm, so will move as much air at half speed as stock case fan do at full speed on Amazon. Another really good fan would be CoolJag Everflow 140mm PWM from PugetSystems. It is same basic hi-performance fan as TY-143 but when used in 550-1300rpm is same as TY-147A. Specs say 600rpm, but I've found they idle at 500-550rpm.

Also, here is basic tutorial to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...-i-put-my-temp-sensor.18564223/#post-26159770

Cheers, i'll give it a full read i the morning.
So the TL: DR would be the alternative fans you suggest would shift more air but be the same/similar level of noise?

 

[BoomAM]

If my answers are to long to read, don't expect me to try an help you. I'm willing to help, but I'm not doing it for you.

I'll give you a 2nd chance

I stopped reading any further than this.

As LuckyBenski pointed out, i was asking to confirm my initial understanding in a more 'layman's' terms.
If you cannot be civil when i have both thanked you for the link and also asked for confirmation, then i'd like to ask you to not participate in this thread further, as useful as your participation & suggestions have been thus far.
Again, thank you for the link, i'll re-read and corroborate my understanding with other sources, it will be useful as i 'tune' this system.

...all of which is a polite way to say, perhaps tomorrow get up on the other side of the bed.

Moving on, unfortunatelly the suggested Phantek fans arn't available at the local MC it doesnt appear
What are the thoughts on the TT Riing 14 series? They seem ok rated from a quick search about.
Or the HEC Cougar 140?

 

[BoomAM]

define toasty?
as you have no airflow on the VRM components they will get hotter than normal. remove the cover on the top and turn the exhaust fan round as an intake. I've got a water cooled card no no real heat comes from that inthe case but the rear fan turned to intake made a big difference on my old B350 tomahawk board. lowers current x470 gaming M7 VRM's by 4-5C but they only hover around 56C without a fan during an AIDA64 test @ 1.325v and 60C at 1.44v

The motherboard sensors were hitting north of 60*c, along with the M.2s.

This morning was the first time I've had a chance to do some real testing/gaming since changing what the intake/exhaust fans were linked too, about an hour of Wolfenstein2. Temps were noticeably better, around 10-15*c better from a quick glance at HWInfo, and the case side was no warmer than the rest of the case.
Admittedly an hour of Wolf2 isnt quite the same 'test' as DX:MD for a few hours, but a good start at this point.

RE: top exhausts/top of case, I've been trying to think of ways i can do it without cat hair and dust dropping in, but as there's no dust filter on the top, i'm not sure its possible to do.

 

[BoomAM]

...actually, i'm wrong about the dust filter at the top of the R6, it does have one...completely forgot!
I'll have to work out if there's a way i can get it so the cat's cant sit on top though for it to be usable, as the mesh looks a bit fragile.

 

[BoomAM]

spikes?

haha, could be an option.