Oven replacement
- Thread starter joeryan
- Start date
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- cooker electricity gas oven
If you have to ask get someone in
The gas needs sorting by a accredited gas person. You can’t touch it and please don’t try.
The electrical may not be up to spec, as a minimum for a free standing oven will want 32A. Some want more. If you do t know what you are looking at, get an electrician in.
If you stick to a gas hob, you all also need a pro to install that. You need to establish what you currently have in terms of electrical connections first and go from there. You need to sort that first before anything else otherwise you could be left without an oven.
It might just be easier to pay for installation from your chosen retailer. Phone them and discuss your situation and see why they say. The chances are it will not be the normal £70 they advertise.
The electrical may not be up to spec, as a minimum for a free standing oven will want 32A. Some want more. If you do t know what you are looking at, get an electrician in.
If you stick to a gas hob, you all also need a pro to install that. You need to establish what you currently have in terms of electrical connections first and go from there. You need to sort that first before anything else otherwise you could be left without an oven.
It might just be easier to pay for installation from your chosen retailer. Phone them and discuss your situation and see why they say. The chances are it will not be the normal £70 they advertise.
I’m going to pay for someone to do it, that’s fine. I’m just trying to figure out if I likely have the electrical outlets there or not as I just moved in. It sounds like sticking to gas might be the easiest route, although after seeing the switch I had some hope I could get the gas capped and use the electrical socket. Prefer fan assisted. I was in Currys and they just said (pre lockdown) the gas can be turned off yourself and pay for electric installation which felt a bit odd as I’m sure I should get it capped entirely for safety.
Personally I’d never install a new gas oven if I was buying a new one. If I couldn’t get induction then gas would be the next best fall back for the hob. If you have gas available it might make sense to get a fuel fuel free standing oven, there is no need to have the gas capped then. Most will say it’s best of both worlds but I prefer the clean look of induction. Standard electric hobs are not the best.
There are a few basics you can check easily. It may not be suitable if there was historically a fully gas oven there, gas ovens still need power for the ignition but that isn’t a lot at all.
Check if there is a dedicated breaker for the oven, if it says 32A on that breaker then the chances are it’s ok and you should be fine just to pay the retailer their basic fee to install it. If there isn’t a dedicated breaker or it’s not rated to 32A then additional work is needed which will cost more than their normal fee.
That said just because it says 32A it doesn’t mean the actual I installation is up to spec but if it was done correctly the chances are it is. The installer will check all of that properly when they come to do it.
There are a few basics you can check easily. It may not be suitable if there was historically a fully gas oven there, gas ovens still need power for the ignition but that isn’t a lot at all.
Check if there is a dedicated breaker for the oven, if it says 32A on that breaker then the chances are it’s ok and you should be fine just to pay the retailer their basic fee to install it. If there isn’t a dedicated breaker or it’s not rated to 32A then additional work is needed which will cost more than their normal fee.
That said just because it says 32A it doesn’t mean the actual I installation is up to spec but if it was done correctly the chances are it is. The installer will check all of that properly when they come to do it.
There’s a gas oven connected now, fully gas and it simply plugs into a standard 13 amp wall socket in the wall for the ignition etc. There is that box on the wall, next to the gas main, which links to the switch up above the unit. It doesn’t have anything rated on it. When I check the fuse box I don’t see anything labelled “cooker” etc which worries me. If it’s going to be the cost of running a new wire from the RCD through the walls / under the floor to the oven, it’s not worth the cost / effort. Is there any easy way to see what the switch for the oven is rated at? It’s just a white front, I expected to see something on the RCD box.
I see this oven says it comes with a 13 amp plug, I already have an outlet close to the oven which is used for the induction of the gas. It says in the specifications on Currys to connect it to a standard outlet, is that safe?
“ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION: This product can be plugged into a standard 13 Amp socket.”
Could be a solution for the time being, keep gas for the hob (pay for their installer) and then electric oven that’s got the plug on the end.
https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/house...fuel-cooker-stainless-steel-10192722-pdt.html
“ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION: This product can be plugged into a standard 13 Amp socket.”
Could be a solution for the time being, keep gas for the hob (pay for their installer) and then electric oven that’s got the plug on the end.
https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/house...fuel-cooker-stainless-steel-10192722-pdt.html
As you said, it can be plugged straight into the plug socket so no electrician needed but I would get someone in to check the gas as normally they are a bayonet connection (mine was) but depending how old the connection has been together the parts might not seal correctly when separated meaning leaks so best to get checked properly to be sure.
I'd be wanting a electric fan oven and a gas hob.
We had an electric oven running off a standard plug for 10 years+. I think it only went up to 230C and was a bit ****, but it worked. It was fitted like that by the people who we bought the house from, even though they had an oven outlet wired in at the same time, which was a bit bonkers, but there you go. When I replaced the oven I put the new (double) oven on the oven outlet. That one wouldn't work on the plug.
So yeah, some ovens will be fine on a standard plug. Some won't. I wouldn't think an electric oven and electric hob would work though.
And yes, you'd need that gas pipe capping otherwise it will **** gas everywhere. Unless you can find somewhere further towards the meter to turn off the supply. Either way, you should get it checked out with a registered corgi fitter unless you fancy blowing up your house and the insurance not paying out. Or worse.
We had an electric oven running off a standard plug for 10 years+. I think it only went up to 230C and was a bit ****, but it worked. It was fitted like that by the people who we bought the house from, even though they had an oven outlet wired in at the same time, which was a bit bonkers, but there you go. When I replaced the oven I put the new (double) oven on the oven outlet. That one wouldn't work on the plug.
So yeah, some ovens will be fine on a standard plug. Some won't. I wouldn't think an electric oven and electric hob would work though.
And yes, you'd need that gas pipe capping otherwise it will **** gas everywhere. Unless you can find somewhere further towards the meter to turn off the supply. Either way, you should get it checked out with a registered corgi fitter unless you fancy blowing up your house and the insurance not paying out. Or worse.
Soldato
Box looks new and fittings old, suspect the cooker socket isn't live
Those gas fittings are designed to be user serviceable, its the point. they are self sealing, again thats the point.
A single oven with a gas hob will be fine plugged into normal mains. A double is likely to need more than 13amp
Those gas fittings are designed to be user serviceable, its the point. they are self sealing, again thats the point.
A single oven with a gas hob will be fine plugged into normal mains. A double is likely to need more than 13amp