Oven wiring diagrams and error codes

Soldato
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Anyone ever found a good place to find them? I guess it's not the sort of thing openly available.

F19 code, AEG site stops at F18 and skips over! Typical. Can't find anything definitive from googling.

Looking for an AEG DUE711130M
 
Soldato
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It seems to be board related in my diagnosis, as it's not putting out the right voltage to the top oven elements correctly in the diff modes, but they test ok ohms wise.

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Soldato
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I've seen the board for £129, I'm quite sure, but not 100% it's that.
The fixed price repair probably is the best way to go.
Annoying that an element blowing (original start of this) has taken the board out.
 
Soldato
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It's very unusual for an element to take one of our boards out, although I have seen fan motors do it.

Technical came back to me asking...

Does it happen every time
Does it clear if you power it off and on?
Does it stop oven functionality, both compartments or just one?
1) not quite sure in reference to what, but the error is always there, the top oven won't warm up fully ,except in grill or turbo grill.
2) the error wont clear, regardless of how long you leave it off.
3) bottom oven is fine. It only affects the top oven. Turbo grill and grill work in top oven and will get to temp. The other modes don't, which utilise the bottom element and ring element.

I don't think we ever used the bottom oven grill element and I used it one day and bang.
This element had gone to earth and tripped the RCD.
I isolated the element and then the top oven wouldn't warm up in normal convection mode, just hoovered around 100C.
I thought maybe it didn't like having the bottom grill element isolated, so I bought a new one, installed it and that all worked ok, but the top oven still wouldn't warm in normal convection mode.
So it really seems to be the element going that did it, as it was perfect before.
 
Soldato
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Tip oven has a pizza mode, which uses the bottom element, it doesn't get 240v, so doesn't warm up properly. Gets approved 135v.

All elements insulation is good, I have the figures at home, but all very high.

I've checked the relay for the top oven, terminals are open and apply 240v (via alternative source) and they close, 0.4ohm across them. My leads were about 0.3ohm of that.

All leads checked on the terminal block and tight.

Thanks for the drawing, I'll have a scan over it.
 
Soldato
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@Mr.Cookie taken a bit of time lol, but fixed it. Turns out the top cavity grill element was wired up incorrectly from new!
The bottom element or ring element selected, it was pulling it's power through the grill element as well.
It makes sense why I burnt myself on the grill element once when the oven was warming up, when it shouldn't have been on.

Also make sense why things on conventional oven where cooking really uneven, the grill element was putting out heat.

The only thing that doesn't make sense, is why that one time the top cavity wouldn't heat up, but I don't think I'll waste time trying to work that out.

Each element now only see's 240v when it's selected and 0v on the others.
 
Soldato
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Well, during fault diagnosis, it was reaching temperature over the last few days.
(Edit - it should in theory too, albeit the heat energy is coming from two elements in series, it should still have been given out around the same output overall)

I really can't work out on that occasion after tripping the RCD why it wouldn't heat up.
I know we chucked a load of veg in to roast, maybe I was being impatient and it would have made temp, but from seeing the timer, normally it 'would' have heated up by then. I didn't do anything different to what I normally would.
Maybe I was looking into it too much, as the other element went, just assumed that had a fault to.

no one else looked at it.

Perhaps I lead myself down the wrong garden path, but in doing so found an actual fault and now that's fixed, working like it should have from new lol.
 
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