Overclocking the E2180

X-Morgan

X-Morgan

X-Morgan

Associate
Joined
21 Aug 2008
Posts
226
Location
Glasgow, Earth, Sol
Hey everyone,

How do you go about overclocking your C2D's?

The last time I overclocked was back in the old Socket 370 days where you upped the FSB and CPU Voltage and voila! An overclock!

But now there's so many more variables.

What's your way of doing it?

E2180 and a Asus P5Q with DDR2 1066 Geil Black Dragon (2 x 1GB)

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Saw your request in the other post. So here we go:

First off, loosen the timings in your ram to 5:5:5:15. Not essential, but it moves the RAM out of the equation should the O/C fail. You can always tighten the latencies afterwards.

Second, keep the CPU at stock volts and up the FSB in small-ish steps (40-50MHz) boot up and run orthos/prime95 for 10/15 mins to check for initial stability. Repeat this until orthos fails. When it fails up the vcore a notch at a time and repeat until you reach your desired clock speed. Then test for a longer period for ultimate stability. People say 8Hrs+ indicates true stability.

I would have thought you would easily be able to reach 3.2GHz+ with your MB and RAM :cool:
 
Nice, thanks

I've found that the Intel Burn Test will make your CPU cry more than hours in Orthos in 10 minutes.

I've always got the timing on 5-5-5-15, but what about the other RAM timings and the other voltages like the Northbridge? Or should I just keep at the Vcore and FSB?

Much appreciated :)
 
I have read about IBT, it allegedly stresses the CPU far more than prime/orthos etc thus allowing for a quicker stability diagnosis. It is fairly new so I am fairly unsighted tbh. I think Pneumonic posted a thread on this a couple of days ago, worth a search if you are interested.

For now, don't touch the NB voltages as it is not needed at this relatively low FSB. I understand the P5Q can do 500+ FSB at stock volts, but I am sure others can jump in here.

Also, leave the other RAM timings on auto for now. In my personal opinion altering these values has very little effect on real world applications other than benching. However, altering these can have a huge impact on stability, so if you must tinker then do so after you have reached your goal.

As you say, for now just up the FSB as far as you can on a given vcore until it BSODs. Only then up the vCore and repeat until you reach your desired clock speed. This way you will reach your maximum clock on minimum volts which equals less heat! Speaking of which, what cooler you using?
 
Last edited:
I'm currently running on an AC Freezer 7, it's brillaint stock so far. RealTemp's reporting that idle is at 19 to 20C on both cores and 40C at 2.7GHz on IBT, so I think I've got a good one :D

I'll try what you said and up the FSB bits at a time. To be honest, it's starting to turn out like my old overclocks on my 633MHz Cely now! Up the FSB and vCore. Much easier now, just blinded by so many options!

Would you reccomend trying to achieve a 1:1 ration and tighten up the timings?
 
Good stuff!

A 1:1 is preferential but not essential and I don't think it makes huge differences in real world apps other than benching. I run 1:1, maybe that answers your question better? ;)

All it means is that your FSB is synchronised with your RAM, in other words each FSB cycle is matched by a RAM cycle. In slower ratio's your FSB has to wait a cycle before further info is supplied. There is no point in running your RAM faster than 1:1 as the processor (FSB) will not be able to process more cycles than its own frequency if that makes sense.

What volts you running for 2.7GHz?
 
I was running at around 1.35V at 2.7. Mind you, I wasn't using the "keep the vCore low" technique. It's bloody hard remebering all the stuff again in the BIOS, but I'm getting there, just seems with newer iterations of chipsets, the more settings you get!

Thanks for all your help though, it's all slowly coming back to me now!
 
You can always 'cheat' though! The other school of thought is that you enter the voltage you are happy to run with 24/7, which can be up to 1.5V safely with these chips (temp dependent) and experiment with the FSB. 1.4V should see you to 3GHz at least I would have thought if not a little higher.

I run my e2160 in sig at 1.5V 24/7 still running strong 10 months later. Even pumped 1.7V through it for a suicide Pi run at 3.7GHz on air, you only live once after all!! :D

Are you able to POST at 10x300FSB with 1.4vCore?
 
Last edited:
Just tried it there, 300 x 10 @ 1.4V with a DRAM freq of 1200 @ 2.2V and it POSTed but didn't load Windows. Am I guessing right that that was at a 1:1 ratio?
 
Hmm, I think you are running FSB:RAM 1:2 as your FSB is 300MHz which translates to a RAM speed of 600MHz (DDR2). Your DRAM is running double this speed again so hence my assumption of 1:2

Try manually setting your FSB to 300 and the RAM freq to 300 also.

I just remembered, you will also need to fix the PCIE freq to 100 or 101 and NOT leave it on auto. This could fry your rig! Also disable any EIST/C1E options in the BIOS for now, you can always re-instate later if you want.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I've heard a few stories about people destroying their rig with PCIE on Auto

Still getting used to all this "Quad pumped" and all the other kind of numbers that play with your MHz. So in my BIOS if the FSB is 300Mhz, then to achieve a 1:1 it would be DDR2-600?
 
Correct! With a quad pumped FSB of 1200. Easy-peasy! :)

Any joy in posting at 3GHz having manually set the RAM freq?

I look forward to finding out tomorrow as I must get my head down now.
 
Last edited:
Well I've sucessfully run a 5 run IBT and it passed with flying colours and the temp never went over 41C

Odd thing though, when I had it OC'ed at 2.7, it ran IBT faster by 50seconds each run. I think that was 'cos the memory was running faster though, not too sure. Bit I'll try out some more tests tomorrow!

See ya!
 
A wee update.

Been messing around with all the options and I've maanged to get it nice and stable with the following:

300x10 @ 1.4 - Reported as 1.376 in CPU-Z
Running my RAM 1:1 and I've improved the timings at 4-4-4-12 @2.2 V (Geil Black Dragon like between 2.2-2.4V)

So far so good :) I don't think I'll benefit anymore from the CPU and everything seems fast enough!

So far my Antec 300 case has been amazing at cooling 3x120mm's on intake and a 120 and 140mm on exaust.

The only thing now I need to take care of is my 4850. It's the hottest component of my rig so I'll be getting myself a S1 rev 2 with the VRM heatsinks!

I'm a happy chappy.
 
Good news! Appears a fair bit of vdrop there. What does the vcore drop to under load (vdroop)?

You could try turning on your Load Line Calibration, I have no idea how it works but apparently minimises vdrop/vdroop if you really care.

You could try pushing the CPU a little further as you have plenty of headroom, this is an overclockers forum afterall ;)

Joking aside, if you're happy with this clock then test for stability and run IBT for an extended period or Orthos/prime95 for up to 8hrs to give you peace of mind.
 
Just thought, have you played around with Riva Tuner to change your default fan settings to cool your 4850?

Might be worth a tinker before you part with your hard earned cash on a 3rd party cooler.
 
Nah, I know that the 4850 runs very very hot, besides, it's only 15 quid and it'll also reduce the noise a tad, 'cos it's the card that makes the most noise in the case.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom