Painting a staircase from gloss to satinwood

psd99

psd99

psd99

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Hi guys,

I want to repaint my staircase it did look like this previously:



since the above picture the house has had a revamp and the stair case is dirty.

It is currently gloss paint all over, as it looks shiny and slightly yellow in some places.

I'm interested in going for satin wood I got this one coat paint from Dulux.

Now in the past, the bad side of me had a project where I ended up painting satinwood right over gloss and the result was horrendous. I was not able to change this and had to live with it.

Since that time I have invested in a sanding machine from Bosch, got it cheap.


I know I have to sand down this wood now to take the gloss out of the paint but my question is about the sanding plates...


I have different disks all with a rating on the back for instance:

- Paint 180 (I assume this is for paint) this has a white colour
- wood 120 - I assume this is for wood. this is red.


now based on my scenario what grade of sanding paper and which type i.e wood/paint do I need to be using to sand down this paint?

Any other tips to avoid me making the same mistake last time would be appreciated and no I don't want to remove all of the paint i.e paint removing as that will take a while!

Thanks,
Psd99.
 
Paintstripper is your friend here. Take up the carpet first. Polycell and others have some videos on Youtube.
 
Ours is similar. Used an 80 grade to key it and will do 2 coats of Dulux Satinwood.

2jb8f9x.jpg


Built 1937 but I doubt it's the original woodwork and certainly not the original gloss.
(No idea why tinypic rorated the pic)
 
Sand it down, undercoat, satin! You don't need to take it down to bare wood at all. Make sure you give it a really good sanding so the undercoat keys to the surface. You will have no problems at all if you do this properly and don't take shortcuts.

Do the sanding by hand, you'll get a much better feel for it, start with an 80 grit and work your way up to maybe a 120 or so. The higher the number, the finer grade of sandpaper and smoother finish you get.
 
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A house that age could conceivably have lead paint in. If you want to make sure you could get peel away, its quite expensive but very effective, better than (the new formula) nitromors that is sold. It would be time consuming though but would avoid all risk of lead paint disturbance.
If you wanted to be doubly sure you can get testing kits for about a fiver that turn red on the presence of lead.
 
psd99 said:
1930's but the paint looks like it has been done about 15-20 years ago

i doubt there are any lead risks tbh
Click to expand...

1930 puts in in lead era without question. Be careful, the fact that the paint looks 15-20 years old means little as it could well be over the top of the old lead paint as it was in my house. also please dont think I'm being a H&S busybody here, lead paint sanded is nasty stuff indeed.
 
MiHeatgun and a decent mask.

The Wonky pic above had me looking twice as it's a nigh on as damn my hallway a week ago haha.

Hit it til it starts to blister and it scraped off really easy.

I'd much rather that than Sanding and the dust it involves
 
i used paint stripper and sanding, then undercoat before top coat. yes it is a hassle and once you start there is no going back! just set yourself a section at a time.
I used a shield shaped scraper that could get into those corners and it came off in one stroke.
 
Bickaxe said:
Ours is similar. Used an 80 grade to key it and will do 2 coats of Dulux Satinwood.

2jb8f9x.jpg


Built 1937 but I doubt it's the original woodwork and certainly not the original gloss.
(No idea why tinypic rorated the pic)
Click to expand...

damn that looks freakishly exactly like my hallway
 
psd99 said:
that will take forever!!!!! is there not a shortcut?
Click to expand...

That's the problem right there. Prep for painting takes time, take shortcuts and it will just peel or scratch off.

In normal circumstances I'd be suggesting give the gloss a really good key with sandpaper to take away the gloss finish but given it could be lead based I would strip it back as others have suggested and start again.
 
so what is the problem or complication with Lead based paint?

Is that as dangerous as asbestos? or is it merely the finish will be better if I stripped it all off?
 
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