Painting internals

[RollerBall]

Due to time constraints I'm going to have to spray the internals of my TJ07 instead of powdercoating.

I still want to achieve as durable a paint as possible though. I've got a Scotch to wipe it down but as its brand new I don't think its worth sanding down. I'm thinking a coat of grey primer then a matt black. I had a quick look in halfords and hammerite seemed to be the best one.

Any help?

 

[RollerBall]

Best option would be to get some etch primer to really help the paint stick. Rub down each part you want to paint with some sand paper, clean the parts of with some water and leave to dry. When painting you will be applying multiple coats so don't panic if you don't cover everything the first time round. Apply a light coat of etch primer and leave to dry until you can add the second coat (usually about 20 - 30 minutes) Usually I have found 3 or 4 coats should do then leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Give a light rub down then with the finest sand paper you can making sure you remove and lumps or anything else. The quality of the primer defines how good the paint looks. Clean off any dust leave to dry then do the same with the top coat of paint.

I have never used it but I have seen people make reference to some matt clear coat which could help protect the paint some more.

Edit: This is how I did mine and I used Halfords acid etch grey primer and halfords satin black paint (I prefer it over matt) pics in project log if you want to look.

So:
- Sand (what grit, is this neccessary or will this scratch pad thing the powder coater gave me be suffice)
- Etch primer coats. 2-3 with half hour between them
- Satin black coat
- Sand down with smallest grit possible to get a perfect finish.

For that you used halfords own brand acid etch primer and own satin black?

 

[RollerBall]

It was their own paint yes but I really can't remember the prices sorry, though you can look on their website. The finish is good though, I marked it a little during putting the case back together but since then it has dried completely and I have knocked it a few times and it has been fine.

Can't remember exactly the sand paper. On the bare metal I used 600 or 800, though anything that lightly scratches the surface should be fine.

So
-Light rub down with sand paper / scratch pad
-Clean with water
-3 or 4 light coats Etch primer leaving time between coats (should tell you on the can)
-Leave to dry fully (usually 24 hours minimum)
-Rub down with some fine sand paper (I used 1000 or 1200, again can't remember)
-3 or 4 light coats of paint of your choice
-Leave to dry fully (usually 24 hours minimum again)
-If there is any imperfections rub down again to remove, depending how bad it is or what sand paper you use you might need to give another coat of paint.
-Rub down with some of the highest sand papaer you, should give a really good surface (2000 if you can get it or higher)

For best results, also make sure you paint in wind less conditions and becareful with the etch primer it is horrible stuff to breath in or get in your eyes. Also, while I would say hold the can above the part you are painting test it out as some of the spray caps drip which is a PITA. Last but one tip for good results is with the first coat go left/right going off the edges a bit to give an even coverage, second coat go up/down. Final and best tip for spray painting is patience, make sure leave everything to dry fully and dont try to rush anything and should give you good results.

I see. I'm kind of apprehensive about sanding stuff down. Will the finish be crap if I don't? Intake it the grit I use between primer and black is the same I use at the end?

 

[RollerBall]

With sanding stuff down, by the time it comes to sanding down the primer / paint it will be fine sand paper just to remove any small imperfections you have. If there is any big problems them you can go back to the bigger grit sand paper to remove it. Once you get the to the final paint then if you are sanding it will be really really fine sand paper that will be more of a polishing sand paper than keying the paint.

Well I just popped to Halfords and picked some stuff up.

I got 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry, acid etch primer (mahoosive expensive can that was), a smaller can of 300ml satin black and a face mask with a breathing filter thingy. I also have a scotch pad off the powder coater to wipe it down in the first place.

I bought the mask as I'm going to be spraying in an open garage due to the weather. I figured I'd better get some sort of mask as it's better safe than sorry. The mask is essentially a dust mask with a wierd filter in the middle to make breathing easier. It's stated to work for "fine toxic dusts, fibers and aqueous mists up to 12 times the occupational exposure limit". I've also got a buff (fishing mask thing) I could use or they would probably let me change it for one without a hole to a standard dusk mask if it's not alright.

I'm sure it'll be fine for the paint, I'm most concerned about this primer as it comes with some pretty nasty warning labels!

 

[RollerBall]

Think I should switch the paint then? I noticed halfords had an enamel one. Also, should I bet wet sanding or dry sanding between coats? I assume wet?

I want to avoid paint chipping as much as possible while maintaining a nice deep black like would have been acheived by powder coating.

Basically, I'm trying to get as close to powder coating as I can without actually powder coating it...

 

[RollerBall]

So I have another problem >.<

It's raining. Standard Welsh weather really. Clearing up a bit now and it's supposed to be sunny now for the rest of the day.

I know it's bad to spray in humid conditions but I'm kind of stretched for time. The weather doesn't look like it's changing all week and I need it done by the time I go to London on Saturday (Spray primer today, spray top coat Wednesday and then put together Thursday).

I'm going to be spraying in an open garage, will the humidity effect the paint that much? It's going to to be the acid etch primer? I'm thinking of testing out a PCI slot first and waiting half hour for the primer to dry to see how it is.

 

[RollerBall]

You can dry sand between coats just change the paper more as it get`s clogged up and use a tak rag to remove the dust or a good cotton cloth.
I always use enamel as it`s a more solid paint that will not chip easy.

You can paint in the garage as long as you dont get it wet ive done a car like that and no problem,have you got a heater? you could spray the panels and then use the heater to dry it.

No heater. It's an outside garage so there's no electricity as it's a bit down the road.

So dry sand after half hour or so (it says 20 minutes on the can) between the coats of primer? Trying to get all the oily finger prints off the metal atm is proving more difficult than I thought... Should have got some gloves.

I won't be doing the black until tomorrow anyway as I want to give the primer 24 hours before I spray on top of it so I'll just pop down and change it.

 

[RollerBall]

Latex glove i got some at tesco 14 pairs for £1
This is how i spray primer.
First light coat give it 15-20mins to touch dry then another light coat until im happy it`s covered,then i leave it to dry overnite this way it will be fully cured and ready for topcoat.
Problem is when it`s wet outside it will take longer for the primer/paint to dry,spraying primer in the damp is ok but dont do it when it come`s to top coat.

You do know you can get the inside of a pc powdercoated for about £60 odd the main benefit from this is you can throw in some hd cages and pci blanking plates and get them done for nothing.

In between those light coats of primer you dry sand? I've got a 1200 & 2000 grit I picked up for a few quid. I was planning on leaving it overnight and then sanding/washing just before the top coat then doing the same with that.

Yeah, I wanted to get it it powder coated originally. However, the places near me quoted me £100 and to get it shipped to a PC shop or similar would cost me more or less the same on postage. £60 for painting and ~£15 each way for postage.

The paint/sand paper/etc all in only cost me ~£25.

I'm just giving all the panels a rub down with a scotch pad at the moment but it's making quite an uneven scratch pattern I think. Some of the panels are quite awkward so they don't have all the scratches going the same way. I'm just giving them a light rub so they mostly appear scratched then I'm going to give them all a wash in warm soapy water and let them dry before I start spraying.

 

[RollerBall]

I dont sand between coats of primer i do with topcoat.
400 grit is best to prep panels for primer you only need etch primer when it`s bare metal/ally.

Hot soapy water with wet & dry,it dont matter what the panel look`s like as long as it`s all scored with the sandpaper as the primer need`s them to stick to it.

Better remove the name of that shop


Link to my guid.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18200687&highlight=username_clone

Cheers for the guide. Just found some unopened marigolds under the sink so going to give them ago to save me going to the shop.

I'm using an etch primer atm, well about to. I'm just using this scotch cloth to make sure it's really smooth to give it something extra to bite into. I'm going to give it a test spray onto something like a PCI slot/corner guard of the mobo plate and see what it turns out like after the 30 minutes. Will I be able to tell after the first coat/drying of first coat if I need to sand the panels more or not?

Sorry about all the questions, first time ever spraying something and don't want to trash an expensive case!

 

[RollerBall]

Cheers. Well I just popped to Halfords again. Swapped the standard satin black for an enamel matte black, picked up some disposible gloves 10 for a quid or so, and got some 400 grit wet and dry.

So I wet sand the panels now, give them a good wash afterwards and a wipe down with an old T-shirt then I'm set to spray primer? After the primers dried I'll give it a sand with 1200 grit (this is tomorrow) and then when I've finished with the enamel I was originally going to sand with 2000 grit but tbh I don't think I'll need to. By the time the enamel has cured the case will already be built. I would take it back but I figure I'll just keep it for the sake of £2-3 quid.

 

[RollerBall]

Leave the panels to dry for a few hours after you have sanded them put them in a warm place as the weather is not no so good.
When you think they are ok to prime and have done so and left them to dry resand with 400 grit give them a good wipe down to get as rid of as much dust as possable you are now ready to put the topcoat on.
If you are happy with the finish of the topcoat just leave it as is but if you get any runs or blobs of dirt on the panel it will need a resand and spray.
Remember light coats and keep the can a good 30cm odd away from the panel,if you try and cover the panel to quick with heavy coats you are going to get runs.
Another little tip is to place your primer/topcoat can in some luke warm water as this will help the paint flow better.

Just about finishing up sanding them. Got one or two pieces left to go, had to use some white spirit/terps to get some of the sticker gunk off. I'm going to shower them down when I'm done. I don't think I have an old t-shirt kicking about can I not just dry them with a towel or will that leave junk on them?Could probably fine something otherwise.

To sand them I just put them in the hot soapy water, gave them a wash down then while still wet I just used the sand paper on them. The motherboard tray still looks the same, everything else is smooth with little scratches but the mobo tray hasnt seem to have much of an effect and I changed my paper twice on it.

Why do I leave them for two hours btw? Air dry? I would have assumed I could just dry them by hand?

I could probably fine something otherwise.

 

[RollerBall]

just to make sure they are dry properly, otherwise the paint can run if it hits any damp patches/droplets. i always leave an hour or two been sanding& washing down and when i do a layer as if you rush it you wont have a good finish

Okay, will do. I just sprayed them off in the shower and while I was doing them led them on a towel. Then I took them downstairs and I've put them in the conservatory (which is like 25-30*C) standing up against the furniture with the bottom of them on the carpet. Some of them still look a bit messy though, presumably because of the sanding? Like, when they were part dried the wet bits looked "clean" and the sanded bits looked like they still had dust/marks on them. I don't see how though as I blasted them in the shower.

In an hour or so I'll don my plastic gloves to take them to the garage to start primer coat 1! I've used up over half of my 400 grit though, down to one and a half sheets out of four. I use 400 grit on the primer coat tomorrow after 24 hours don't I? Think I might need to buy some more.

 

[RollerBall]

the under coats dont need to look pretty as they just building up a good few layers of paint, because your sanding in between coats, it means you will get a good even finish, so when you apply your top coat (matt coat would give it a dull look, satin/gloss coat would make it shiny) it should look top dollar $$$$

Almost dried. There are a few "drip dry" marks like you get in cars where a bit of dirt has dried in the water. Should I clean this off? Hopefully it'll come off when I wipe it down in a bit with a towel to make sure it's properly dry.

Time to go scout out the garage and see how dusty it is. I'm going to probably be leaning them at a 60* angle between the floor and the wall on cardboard, spraying, a few pieces, waiting a bit till it's "safe" enough to turn them and do the other side.

EDIT: I've also had a change of heart. I've looked at some pictures of satin and matte black and I'm not a fan of the matte. It just doesn't look "right". It looks sprayed rather than OEM computer case black. I'm going to go back and return it (again!) and get some sort of clear coat. The guy in the shop is going to think I'm mad.

 

[RollerBall]

So primer is done! It's in the conservatory now for a 24h dry. I think it looks pretty good, had a few drips which I quickly smudged off with my finger then re-sprayed over.

Unfortunately I ran out of primer on the last coat on the one side. A few things I couldn't spray two coats and had to be pretty frugal about it. On some pieces you can still see the metallic slightly through it if you look closely. I also missed a few of the edges on some pieces like the midplate etc but I'm sure they'll still spray fine.

Went to Halfords and replaced the enamel with standard satin black car paint.

So, tomorrow I sand down with 400 grit again? Isn't that going to just take the paint off? Somebody recommended before 1200 grit iirc.

 

[RollerBall]

Most important part of painting is the preperation!

Bit past prep now.

 

[RollerBall]

Pretty good. Ran out of paint too! I went to sand down a test peice with 1200 grit wet and dry and the primer came off at the edges so I left it. Just gave it a wipe down and sprayed.

I've messed up one peice trying to get a peice of fluff that the wind blew onto it and accidently oversprayed so it ran a little. Luckily it was the Xenon cover plate which will be obscurred by the resevoir if I even decide to use it.

Can't beleive I ran out of paint though. I got the 500ml can which was bigger than the primer can. I think it's because the black has sprayed finer so I've had to use more paint to get a nice even dark cover. I managed to get *most of the peices* one and a half coats. Two coats on one side, one coat on the other. Some I haven't even touched though.

Looks pretty good thus far, not pefect but plenty good enough for case internals for me. I won't pass complete judgement untill tomorrow though when it's had at least 24 hours to cure.

EDIT: It was all going well till a few bits of paper stuck the sides on the pieces I had sprayed led down. I tried to get the paper off as best I could but some bits I've just sprayed over. The biggest chunk was on the side of the PCI bit where the I/O fits. I can't really be bothered to sand it down and re-spray so I'm just going to leave it I think.