Painting Plastic Case
- Thread starter MarkW7
- Start date
Having worked on those godawful heavy cases more times than I can remember, my advice to you is to not waste your time repainting it, and just spend £38 or so on a brand spanking new, far superior Antec 300.
Sorry that's not painting advice but I thought it's better than nothing...!
Sorry that's not painting advice but I thought it's better than nothing...!
Don't bother tbh, it'll never look good. Just swap it for an Antec 300. Seeing as you'd be spending £15~ on spray paint, acrylic coating + sandpaper etc you might as well just fork out the bit extra for a decent case.
Only problem might be the mobo. Maybe you can get an ATX board that takes whatever CPU/RAM/GFX you have? I'm assuming it's a 478 P4, DDR1 Ram and an AGP graphics card going by the date of the case. You can get a good board that will take all that for the price of chips nowadays.
EDIT: Beaten to it! ^^
Only problem might be the mobo. Maybe you can get an ATX board that takes whatever CPU/RAM/GFX you have? I'm assuming it's a 478 P4, DDR1 Ram and an AGP graphics card going by the date of the case. You can get a good board that will take all that for the price of chips nowadays.
EDIT: Beaten to it! ^^
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- 2 Oct 2008
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- 379
halfords sell there own brand vinyl paint i used it on a LCD monitor
just before xmas and i have to say it's really good and the monitor looks as if it was bought black
the stuff don't work like normal paint it softens the plastic and sinks into it
once painted you have to leave the plastic to harden again
sounds mad but the end result is you change the colour but keep the texture
of the original Finnish.
but i would say it would cost far to much to do a case in it at £10 a 350ml can
i would just buy an antec 300 myself
but if you do paint with this stuff it's nothing like paint do it in the shed not in doors cos it creates black dust i should know used the first can indoors lmfao
just before xmas and i have to say it's really good and the monitor looks as if it was bought black
the stuff don't work like normal paint it softens the plastic and sinks into it
once painted you have to leave the plastic to harden again
sounds mad but the end result is you change the colour but keep the texture
of the original Finnish.
but i would say it would cost far to much to do a case in it at £10 a 350ml can
i would just buy an antec 300 myself
but if you do paint with this stuff it's nothing like paint do it in the shed not in doors cos it creates black dust i should know used the first can indoors lmfao
first of all ** will need to key the case so the paint all not flake off. best to use a grey scotch pad, scratch it up all over but not too hard. then give it all a good clean with some degreaser and dry it all off. then spray on a good plastic adhesion promoter allow it to dry for 5-10 mins. u could help it with a heat gun of hairdryer but dont hold it to close. when its dry put a nice even dust coat of plastic primer on let it dry and then a nice even full/wet coat and leave to dry for an hour or so of 10-15 mins if u have heatgun/hairdryer.
now its a good idea to key up the primer so grab the grey scotch u used b4 and give it a good rub all over
if by anychance u have dirt nibs in the primer then a fine wet n dry will sort that out p1200 p1500 or even p2000.
Now depending on what finish/colour u are going for u will prob need to apply 2-3 coats of the base colour depending on its opacity+covering power. 10-15 mins between coats if using heat gun/hairdryer. if u want a satin matte finish then u are now done if u want gloss but i warn u rattle can laquers are not great and wont be very glossy u will need apply 2 nice even wet coats, not too wet though or u will have an encounter with mavity and get some paint sags. allow 20-30 mins between laquer coats once its all done leave it for 24 hours and then u good to go.
now its a good idea to key up the primer so grab the grey scotch u used b4 and give it a good rub all over
if by anychance u have dirt nibs in the primer then a fine wet n dry will sort that out p1200 p1500 or even p2000.Now depending on what finish/colour u are going for u will prob need to apply 2-3 coats of the base colour depending on its opacity+covering power. 10-15 mins between coats if using heat gun/hairdryer. if u want a satin matte finish then u are now done if u want gloss but i warn u rattle can laquers are not great and wont be very glossy u will need apply 2 nice even wet coats, not too wet though or u will have an encounter with mavity and get some paint sags. allow 20-30 mins between laquer coats once its all done leave it for 24 hours and then u good to go.
Sniper dude is right, the vinyl stuff is really good but it isn't paint. If all of the case is plastic then you could use the vinyl pigment myself and it would probably look OK, but it will cost you though as the area you have to cover is large. (This stuff is better for recolouring DVD drives and the like). I think that a standard spray painting will probably look terrible unless you are a professional.
What do you mean when you say you have stripped all of the plastic off BTW?
Already said before: Three tins of paint or whatever is too expensive, just buy a new case. If you really really don't want a new case try the black vinyl, but I don't think that the look of that case is ever going to be significantly better.
What do you mean when you say you have stripped all of the plastic off BTW?
Already said before: Three tins of paint or whatever is too expensive, just buy a new case. If you really really don't want a new case try the black vinyl, but I don't think that the look of that case is ever going to be significantly better.
Nice selection of pentrating dyes here -
https://www.usautomotive.co.uk/store/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=59
Fantastic stuff!
https://www.usautomotive.co.uk/store/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=59
Fantastic stuff!