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PCB Phases 1080 Ti range

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1 Nov 2013
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Pulled this from Wccftech's round up of 1080 Ti cards.

The Zotac Amp as a 16+2 phase design - does this mean better power delivery therefore theoretical more stable overclocks? (temperature ceiling obviously)

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power phases can help, but with pascal every GPU hits about the same, even FE can get to 2000Mhz with increased fan profile
 
Without bios editing the hard power and thermal limits nvidia have locked on the chip means it doesn't really matter how many phases they have.

If you want constant 2ghz+ speeds you need to be under water or have a fancy for going deaf
 
It might give you a few extra MHz but nothing hugely noticeable over the FE. It was the same with the 1080's, the FE cards were capable of clocking as high as the Classified and AMP! Extreme etc despite having fewer phases. Pascal is all about temps, on water they'll pretty much all perform the same.
 
Without bios editing the hard power and thermal limits nvidia have locked on the chip means it doesn't really matter how many phases they have.

If you want constant 2ghz+ speeds you need to be under water or have a fancy for going deaf

True.

All GTX1080Tis are power limited to 1.093v as the GTX1080s.
And given that nobody has broken the Nvidia encryption a year now, do not expect it.

I got a GTX1080 Armor OC last year, chuck at prefilled EK block on it and plugged it in the Predator 360, and was able to do 2190 core 24/7.
But had to learn how to make the Boost 3.0 curve to work. Normal sliders couldn't make it work more than 2120. The main point is to keep the temps bellow 32C so it wont hit the first throttling point. Which couldn't achieve with the Predator 360, was always hitting 36-37C under full load on benching. or else I could have passed the 2200 mark.
But again, you much use the Boost 3.0 curve to have good overclocks to the cards limits.

Something the 99.5% of the owners don't do.
 
True.

All GTX1080Tis are power limited to 1.093v as the GTX1080s.
And given that nobody has broken the Nvidia encryption a year now, do not expect it.

I got a GTX1080 Armor OC last year, chuck at prefilled EK block on it and plugged it in the Predator 360, and was able to do 2190 core 24/7.
But had to learn how to make the Boost 3.0 curve to work. Normal sliders couldn't make it work more than 2120. The main point is to keep the temps bellow 32C so it wont hit the first throttling point. Which couldn't achieve with the Predator 360, was always hitting 36-37C under full load on benching. or else I could have passed the 2200 mark.
But again, you much use the Boost 3.0 curve to have good overclocks to the cards limits.

Something the 99.5% of the owners don't do.

your getting the power limit and voltage mixed up. Power limit is just purely how much wattage its consuming. the boards TDP basically. Say a card has a 100watt TDP and is hitting 99 watts when gaming its hitting that powerlimit. increasing the power limit in afterburner to say 120% means a extra 20 watts the card can consume. It's irelevant of what the voltage the card is running at. The voltage could be unlocked and you could have something stupid like 1.2 volts availible but if the power limit is soo low it does not matter. There is three walls with Pascal. Temp wall, Power limit wall and then the Voltage limit wall.

Now with the FE 1080ti cards you hit the Thermal wall first with overclocking. Put it under water then you remove this problem but you then hit the next one which is the power limit problem. you can increase the powerlimit but you will most likley still hit the power limit as its so low. (Shunt mod can help) AIB cards such as the Zotac which have 2x power limit will get around this thus meaning there is only the voltage to worry about thus meanining in the end your max overclock depends on chip silicon lottery as everyone is restricted by the same voltage.

Now with a better power delivery design and hopefully the silicon gods are nice to you it means you may get anywhere upto a extra 50Mhz overclock. With the zotac cards its going to provide much cleaner power to the memory and core so there is less movement in power delivery and voltage meaning things remain more stable. But its not going to make a massive difference if that's what people are looking for. Better off putting it under water and making sure it does not throttle because of how GPU boost 3.0 works.
 
your getting the power limit and voltage mixed up. Power limit is just purely how much wattage its consuming. the boards TDP basically. Say a card has a 100watt TDP and is hitting 99 watts when gaming its hitting that powerlimit. increasing the power limit in afterburner to say 120% means a extra 20 watts the card can consume. It's irelevant of what the voltage the card is running at. The voltage could be unlocked and you could have something stupid like 1.2 volts availible but if the power limit is soo low it does not matter. There is three walls with Pascal. Temp wall, Power limit wall and then the Voltage limit wall.

Now with the FE 1080ti cards you hit the Thermal wall first with overclocking. Put it under water then you remove this problem but you then hit the next one which is the power limit problem. you can increase the powerlimit but you will most likley still hit the power limit as its so low. (Shunt mod can help) AIB cards such as the Zotac which have 2x power limit will get around this thus meaning there is only the voltage to worry about thus meanining in the end your max overclock depends on chip silicon lottery as everyone is restricted by the same voltage.

Now with a better power delivery design and hopefully the silicon gods are nice to you it means you may get anywhere upto a extra 50Mhz overclock. With the zotac cards its going to provide much cleaner power to the memory and core so there is less movement in power delivery and voltage meaning things remain more stable. But its not going to make a massive difference if that's what people are looking for. Better off putting it under water and making sure it does not throttle because of how GPU boost 3.0 works.

Thanks for that in-depth explanation !
 
OP - the table can't be trusted, wait for the pcb teardowns as the released specs are usually not what you get anyway.

If you are really interested in sub-ambient cooling then its worthwhile seeking out a top tier card. If not then the AMP! will be a great choice as it has a good air cooler and decent components.

The 1080ti GPU auto-clocks itself and while it does react to better components on the card, its really down to the quality of the Air cooler itself. We don't know which cards will have full voltage control this time around, it is possible there will only be three:

Asus STRX OC with hard mod
evga classified with evbot
galaxy hall of fame.

the cards with the higher levels of phases are less likely to have coil whine as they will generally have better components for LN2 overclockers.

that said, the AMP! will be a great card and the 1080 version got really good reviews, both on this board and in the press. If you are going to stay on AIR the AMP! will be a really good buy. If you are not an extreme overclocker then simply the card with the best air cooler will be the one to go for. The best of the 1080 generation was the IChill X3 and the MSI Gaming X although, as they use slightly lower grade components there is an increased chance of these cards having coil whine.
 
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Without bios editing the hard power and thermal limits nvidia have locked on the chip means it doesn't really matter how many phases they have.

If you want constant 2ghz+ speeds you need to be under water or have a fancy for going deaf
Quoted for truth. Unless you are really going to hard mod your GPU and chuck LN2 at it, it really doesn't matter.
 
@Besty - I want a card which overclocks well on air at the lowest decibel. My 1070 (gigabyte G1) has horrific coil wine.

I ordered the Gigabyte Blower card, because OCUK had a picture of the G1 they upgraded the blower for free to the Gigabye Gaming G1. I also have pre-ordered the EVGA SC, EVGA SC2 and EVGA FTW3.

Having owned a 980 Ti Amp! and a 1070 Amp! i'm a real advocate of Zotac. The lack of reviews on the AIB 1080 Ti range is very frustrating. I hope some reviews come out over the next week or 2 because i won't be buying all 4 1080 Ti's - just one.

It feels like the 1080 Ti came out 3 months ago.
 
nobody knows for sure until all the cards are released. it could be the the AMP! extreme. The problem with the higher-end cards is that the more, higher end components you have to cool, it increased the heat soak. The AMP! extreme seems to have just the right blend of medium level components and higher end cooler.

If running stock, the MSI Gaming X will probably be one of the quietest but it uses cheaper PCB components.

The weak spot with the 1080 AMP! were the fans, so it will be interesting to see if they have fixed that with the Ti.

we do not know what the FTW 3.0 will deliver, we know EVGA skimped on the PCB and VRM cooling last time around.
 
Quoted for truth. Unless you are really going to hard mod your GPU and chuck LN2 at it, it really doesn't matter.
its not. i bet the AMP extreme and possibly the Strix can hold over 2Ghz without being "noisy" it will be audible but probably just a little bit more than your case fans. The 1080ti will be consuming less power than my 980ti did when it was overclocked past 1500Mhz. And my 980ti amp extreme did well keeping it under 70 degrees without being noisy.

For two slow cooler cards it may be different.
 
its not. i bet the AMP extreme and possibly the Strix can hold over 2Ghz without being "noisy" it will be audible but probably just a little bit more than your case fans. The 1080ti will be consuming less power than my 980ti did when it was overclocked past 1500Mhz. And my 980ti amp extreme did well keeping it under 70 degrees without being noisy.

For two slow cooler cards it may be different.
You could well be right with the clocks but it is still down to being voltage locked so requires a bit of luck with the silicon lottery. 16+2 or 10+2 will see very little difference in clocks.
 
You could well be right with the clocks but it is still down to being voltage locked so requires a bit of luck with the silicon lottery. 16+2 or 10+2 will see very little difference in clocks.

Yea that's true but i was just going off what ive seen FE cards do when under water. However they hit power limit problems. The AIB cards especially Zotac wont have the power limit problems. So its just down to like you said the voltage and silicon lottery.
FE cards are 7+1 phase design and from actual in depth looking at the FE power delivery that's actually overkill for this card. But it should allow for more efficiency in the power delivery and allow VRMs to have less workload. 2Ghz - 2.1Ghz is where id expect most AIB cards to land stable when being pushed.
 
Yea that's true but i was just going off what ive seen FE cards do when under water. However they hit power limit problems. The AIB cards especially Zotac wont have the power limit problems. So its just down to like you said the voltage and silicon lottery.
FE cards are 7+1 phase design and from actual in depth looking at the FE power delivery that's actually overkill for this card. But it should allow for more efficiency in the power delivery and allow VRMs to have less workload. 2Ghz - 2.1Ghz is where id expect most AIB cards to land stable when being pushed.
Being able to chuck more volts and power at them would be the bigger difference for proper overclocking. Better quality phases and VRMs really would make the difference.
 
Seeing as big companies aren't in the habit of wasting money, it makes you wonder why they'd go to the extra expense of the added phases if they don't really offer anything over the FE card.
 
Seeing as big companies aren't in the habit of wasting money, it makes you wonder why they'd go to the extra expense of the added phases if they don't really offer anything over the FE card.
To make them look better and ohh dont worry they make sure your paying for them haha. If thier cards look better then people are more likley to buy them.
 
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