Peeling Lacquer
- Thread starter smokey
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- 3 May 2004
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I have a fix!
You need a very very sharp scalpel blade and you score through the lacquer but not through the base colour about a centimetre around the area that is lifting. What you have done is put a boundary to where the laquer can lift and it won't go any further.
Peel out the section you have scored around which will leave you with a patch with no laquer. Now you can give it a quick rough up with 1200 grit, mask and spray on some fresh clear. Once you've flatted and polished again you'll barely be able to see it.
You can get spray celly lacquer from most motorfactors and that well known highstreet carspares shop that OcUK doesn't like us mentioning any more
You need a very very sharp scalpel blade and you score through the lacquer but not through the base colour about a centimetre around the area that is lifting. What you have done is put a boundary to where the laquer can lift and it won't go any further.
Peel out the section you have scored around which will leave you with a patch with no laquer. Now you can give it a quick rough up with 1200 grit, mask and spray on some fresh clear. Once you've flatted and polished again you'll barely be able to see it.
You can get spray celly lacquer from most motorfactors and that well known highstreet carspares shop that OcUK doesn't like us mentioning any more
It's almost always cellulose though which doesn't give as good a shine as two-pack. On the other hand, in such a small area it probably would'nt look any different anyway.Jonny69 said:You can get spray celly lacquer from most motorfactors and that well known highstreet carspares shop that OcUK doesn't like us mentioning any more
Jonny69 said:Now you can give it a quick rough up with 1200 grit, mask and spray on some fresh clear. Once you've flatted and polished again you'll barely be able to see it.
You can get spray celly lacquer from most motorfactors and that well known highstreet carspares shop that OcUK doesn't like us mentioning any more
Trouble is if he hits the base coat with 1200.. or anything tbh it will need more colour applying to cover the prep marks or they will be visible (depends on the colour to a degree and how good he wants it) Also if the paint edge he cuts it back to is still not keyed properly underneath then adding cellulose to it will cause a pickling effect. This is basically the high content solvent in the celly paint getting under the unkeyed (flaking) paint and causing a reaction and lifting (wrinkling) off the paint surface.
tb2000 said:It's almost always cellulose though which doesn't give as good a shine as two-pack. On the other hand, in such a small area it probably would'nt look any different anyway.
That's mainly because 2k doesn't normally require polishing (except after the removel of dirt after flatting) Cellulose nearly always does. Plus 2k shouldn't be used unless you have the correct safety gear
That is indeed true. Most home users wouldn't have access to the correct safety gear as you say.Spanker said:That's mainly because 2k doesn't normally require polishing (except after the removel of dirt after flatting) Cellulose nearly always does. Plus 2k shouldn't be used unless you have the correct safety gear
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
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- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
He should be ok, I touched in a section on a very expensive paintjob this way and it was ok. This is where the sharp scalpel comes in because you cut through the old lacquer further back than the flaking is occuring.Spanker said: